stanchion base replacement for CD 30

[Andrew Blight]

I have to replace a lifeline stanchion and base on my 1978 CD 30, but have not been able to find a source of matching hardware. The bases I have are stainless, rectangular, with slightly rounded corners, the usual four, corner screw holes, and a single internal loop for miscellaneous attachments. The stanchion post itself is angled at the usual inward angle (7 degrees or so) from the vertical, to match the camber of the deck. All of the bases I have seen for sale (including the ones from Spartan) are quite different in shape and structure, and would look odd with the others. Does anyone know of a source I could try?



ablight@acorda.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captain Blight,

The source you are looking for is: Ocean Engineering, 242 Branford Rd., North Branford, CT 06471 (203)488-8960. They made the original stainless hardware for CD's, and are still in business! When you talk to them, ask them how to tighten up a stanchion in its' base, some on Hanalei are loose.

Good luck and following seas....

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

[Captain Mike]

Captain Blight,

The source you are looking for is: Ocean Engineering, 242 Branford Rd., North Branford, CT 06471 (203)488-8960. They made the original stainless hardware for CD's, and are still in business! When you talk to them, ask them how to tighten up a stanchion in its' base, some on Hanalei are loose.

Good luck and following seas....

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

surfing the wave rather than the net...One might find the following method effective and simple compared to buying new hardware. A stantion should not necessarily be absolutely rigid. The more rigid the stantion the more force is transmitted to the base and its fastenings. One hopes for damaged to the stantion rather than vessel's hull. Cape Dory with its fiberglass and balsa core may have a greater potential for damage compared to a wood or steal hull, by too rigid a stantion . If the stantion has some minor play or give, then the force is dissipated and assumed by other members of the lifeline resulting in less direct force to the fiberglass. I do not know for sure but I imagine Cape Dory excluded balsa core directly under the stantion base mountings. The balsa core can easily be crushed and permanently deformed. A stantion becomes looser following years of wear and tear. The pipe is being worked into a deformity by the movements. The pipe when new was more circular, and the tolerances between the base was tighter. Over the years, the pipe and base are being deformed into an oblong. Changing the stantions shape at the base improves the fit or tolerances in the base. The pipe's base end should malleted in one direction increasing the bulge inboard to outboard. The movement one direction will be substantically reduced and increased in the perpendicular direction of the bulge. Assembly the liflines,the turnbuckles may have to be loosened, and tighten until optimum tension. This corrects the wobble or the stantion inboard. To tighten stantion in the fore to apt direction drive a standard carpenters shim between the base and stantion. Break off, silver paint allowed for the fantaniks. Forging the end correctly has some artistic considerations, and may provide oppurtunity for over doing. Or you just might tighten the screws in the baseplates, if screws are missing retap is necessary and replace. Many happy repairs......

Captain Mike



mattngly@concentric.net

[zeida]

Captain Mike: What a great explanation regarding the stanchion bases! This past New Year's day I had a minor incident with my boat and she got tangled up with the bow pulpit anchors extending from two huge powerboats. Starboard lifelines and lower shrouds ready to burst! We finally got the boat off, but one stanchion base broke at the neck, as if we had sawed it off. Lifelines held on. My two lower shrouds had minor broken threads, and were replaced. I ordered two of the new Spartan stanchion bases, which are superior to the ones on my 1981 CD-33. The screw holes did not match, and I had to fill the old holes with 5200 and drill new ones. This one base is different than the others, but only I can tell the difference. I wish I could replace all of them with the new Spartans, but they are E-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e! To Install I had to remove the inside wood panels, etc. to get to the nuts and backing plates, and it was done, but it was with some effort. The old stanchion bases have the necks welded to the bases, and are probably easier to break. The new Spartan is made all in one piece! All my other stanchions and bases by now have the little play in them you describe. I would prefer them all to be tigher, but now I sort of agree with your theory, and will tighten them just so much. Thanks again.
Zeida
CD-33 / Bandolera II
Key Biscayne, Miami FL



zcecil@ibm.net

[John]

Captain Mike: What a great explanation regarding the stanchion bases! This past New Year's day I had a minor incident with my boat and she got tangled up with the bow pulpit anchors extending from two huge powerboats. Starboard lifelines and lower shrouds ready to burst! We finally got the boat off, but one stanchion base broke at the neck, as if we had sawed it off. Lifelines held on. My two lower shrouds had minor broken threads, and were replaced. I ordered two of the new Spartan stanchion bases, which are superior to the ones on my 1981 CD-33. The screw holes did not match, and I had to fill the old holes with 5200 and drill new ones. This one base is different than the others, but only I can tell the difference. I wish I could replace all of them with the new Spartans, but they are E-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e! To Install I had to remove the inside wood panels, etc. to get to the nuts and backing plates, and it was done, but it was with some effort. The old stanchion bases have the necks welded to the bases, and are probably easier to break. The new Spartan is made all in one piece! All my other stanchions and bases by now have the little play in them you describe. I would prefer them all to be tigher, but now I sort of agree with your theory, and will tighten them just so much. Thanks again.
Zeida
CD-33 / Bandolera II
Key Biscayne, Miami FL

Everytime a stainless tube is flexed or bent all that is being accomplished is introducing fatigue into the metal and compromising its strength. By bending them the tube is weakened, it may fit tighter but it is definately weaker. The best way I've found over the years, excluding replacement of a loose stanchion post or base is to use stainless shim material to take up the space between the base wall and the post wall. By using the right thickness of shim stock you can use a combination of pieces to get the fit just right. Coat everything with Lanocote or "marine" anti-seize before final assembly to prevent any rusting from occuring. The shim stock is usually available from a good sheet metal fabricator or machine shop. Also you can occassionaly find it in varying thicknesses from hobby shops that deal in radio controlled boat or airplane supplies. I recommend that the shim material be polished before using with a quality polish like Flitz.
Remember stainless will oxidize (rust or corrode) anywhere that moisture collects and there is a lack of oxygen (loses its passivity), then it rusts like any other piece of steel.