sealing prior to cetol

[Chris Humann]

After going through the message board, I've decided to use cetol on all my brightwork. I'm about ready to put brush to grain, but am not sure if the wood should be sealed first (with another product like teak wonder, or a thinned coat of cetol). Any comments would be greatly appreciated.



chumann@pacbell.net

[Jurgen Seebacher]

After going through the message board, I've decided to use cetol on all my brightwork. I'm about ready to put brush to grain, but am not sure if the wood should be sealed first (with another product like teak wonder, or a thinned coat of cetol). Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

I used Cetol on my teak. Did not use a sealer. After five initial coats I need only a "refresher" coat once every 18 months. Looks great!
Jurgen Seebacher, CD300MS



JSeebacher@worldnet.att.net

[Craig Urquhart]

I've been using Cetol for 6 years on my CD-27, with excellent results. Thinning the first coat is probably the way to go, but I applied the Cetol straight-up on very clean teak on a warm day, (60 degrees plus)and obtained very nice results.

I applied four coats, allowing each coat to dry before the next. The teak looked great all summer. The next spring, I steel wooled it and applied two more coats, repeating this step each spring.

In six years I've had no adhesion or peeling issues, so you can get away without thinning. My experience suggests that application on a warm day always yields the best result.

The only footnote here is that I use Z-Spar Captains Varnish on the tiller and teak plate on the tiller post within the cockpit, because these items take so much abuse. The Varnish made these two items "glow", and they've worn incredibly well, providing nearly 3 years of uninterrupted beauty.

In this case, I thinned the first coat of varnish, sanded between coats, and applied 5 coats. The cockpit plate was removed and varnished all-over to minimize water absorption.

Hope this helps !
C. Urquhart
CD-27 "Satu" #272

After going through the message board, I've decided to use cetol on all my brightwork. I'm about ready to put brush to grain, but am not sure if the wood should be sealed first (with another product like teak wonder, or a thinned coat of cetol). Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

satu@gwi.net

[Russell]

"The next spring, I steel wooled it and applied two more coats, repeating this step each spring."

Why steel wool instead of fine grit sanding? (Color me ignorant about these things ..)

[Chris]

Russell / Craig - I wish to offer a word of caution when using steel wool in the marine environment. The steel wool tends to leave little steel particles on the wood which can cause staining when they rust. Most marine supply stores can supply you with brass wool which can be found in the same grits as steel. The brass wool will not produce the same rusting stains.

I do not believe a correct answer exists for the question Craig raised "Why steel wool instead of fine grit sanding". I have found most folks use the brass wool as it is available in very fine grits and tends to mold to the wood surface better than and paper backed products.

"The next spring, I steel wooled it and applied two more coats, repeating this step each spring."

Why steel wool instead of fine grit sanding? (Color me ignorant about these things ..)

[Duncan Maio]

I do not believe a correct answer exists for the question Craig raised "Why steel wool instead of fine grit sanding". I have found most folks use the brass wool as it is available in very fine grits and tends to mold to the wood surface better than and paper backed products.

I use 3M abrasive pads - like the scrubbie part of a scrub/sponge, but without the sponge part. They work great, are easy to get into tight spots, and do not leave rusty bits behind.

I also apply Cetol without thinning the first coat, and have had no adhesion problems whatsoever.



dmaio@att.net

[Craig Urquhart]

Well...OK..
Brass wool is the obvious choice over steel. But I'll be honest and confess that I have used steel wool on more then one occasion. Wool is good when interested in quick removal of glaze and accumulated residue off very dry and non-sticky cetol. My dilema is one of having lots of steel wool and none of the brass stuff when I need it. Luckily, my boat sits in my yard over the winter, far away from the salt air and I have the luxury of washing dust and fibers away and wiping down the wood meticulously before applying a fresh coat of Cetol.

I've used a variety of materials over the years depending on condition and contours of wood, but have developed an increased awareness of how damaging heavy abrasives can be to both wood and gelcoat.

Steel and salt don't get along, and I certainly will withdrawl any suggestion that steel wool be used when brass wool can be had.
Craig Urquhart
CD27 Satu #272

I do not believe a correct answer exists for the question Craig raised "Why steel wool instead of fine grit sanding". I have found most folks use the brass wool as it is available in very fine grits and tends to mold to the wood surface better than and paper backed products.

I use 3M abrasive pads - like the scrubbie part of a scrub/sponge, but without the sponge part. They work great, are easy to get into tight spots, and do not leave rusty bits behind.

I also apply Cetol without thinning the first coat, and have had no adhesion problems whatsoever.

Satu@gwi.net