Adding reefing blocks to Typhoon boom

[Paul D.]

The restoration of Typhoon #1178 HORNET is nearly complete with new bronze portlights, seacocks, non-skid, bootstripe...ad infinitum. (Even got the name on the transom!) We move on to the rig tomarrow! This truly excites me as I plan on adding two slab reefing points to the main boom. In attaching the cheek blocks, padeyes and cleats; are aluminum rivets or SS screws better to fasten them? If using screws, are self tapping screws strong enough for this application? Any suggestions on placement? We want a strong, simple and clean installation, for it will be used frequently. Hope to splash next week.

Thanks,
Paul Danicic
HORNET MPLS MN



nyeme001@tc.umn.edu

[cy jordan]

I had the same conversion done last year. I'll look to see how the cheek blocks and boom cleat were attached. The cheek block position is determined by the point placement in the sail; that's why I paid Shore Sails to do the whole job. I put a cleat on the mast; I was advised to drill and tap screw holes.

The Shore Sails loft that put the reef points in the sail and put the boom hardware on suggested that I just tie the fixed end of the reefing lines to the mast as it allowed them to self adjust; worked fine.

This year (if no one buys the boat for me) I'm intending to put a ss hook on the gooseneck. The mast cleat is a pain.



cjordan@together.net

[Mike Wainfeld]

Did the same upgrade last year. Rig-Rite supplied the hardware and fittings. I bought a small tapping set at Home Depot and drilled and tapped the holes. It was a very easy job, and it appears very solid.
And reefing now is a snap!



ripcord1@erols.com

[Bob B.]

I have just completed the same operation and used self tapping screws into predrilled holes. It worked well but I did ring off two screws so buy a few spares. I placed the cheek block for the first reef on the starboard side of the boom, the pad eye on the port and a cleat on the starboard side. All of this is rigged with line that matches the reefing lines on the sail for that first reef. I did the same for the second reef but reversed the positions so that the small boom would accomodate all of the lines and hardware. I sailed it the other week and it worked like a dream. I wondered why I didn't do it sooner.

Bob B.
sv Oblivion (CD Typhoon 73)
mv Royal Engineer (waterway tug)



Jib8357@aol.com

[Kim]

It is always reccommended (& done @ the factory) that you tap holes & use machine screws. The screws should be as short as possible.
Reefing cleats should always be on the boom - If on the mast, reef line tension will vary with the angle of the boom to the centerline of the boat.



kim@rigrite.com

[Arnold Amenda]

The restoration of Typhoon #1178 HORNET is nearly complete with new bronze portlights, seacocks, non-skid, bootstripe...ad infinitum. (Even got the name on the transom!) We move on to the rig tomarrow! This truly excites me as I plan on adding two slab reefing points to the main boom. In attaching the cheek blocks, padeyes and cleats; are aluminum rivets or SS screws better to fasten them? If using screws, are self tapping screws strong enough for this application? Any suggestions on placement? We want a strong, simple and clean installation, for it will be used frequently. Hope to splash next week.

I did some similar work on my Typhoon Daysailer 2-years ago. A previous owner had mounted a light spinnaker track on the mast. The second time I used it, the tapped machine screws pulled out. The mast was so thin that the screws had very little metal for threads. As a general rule, a screw will have full strength if there are good threads for a distance equal to the diameter of of the screw. My mast was way too thin to meet this standard. So, I located some 1/4 diameter pop-style rivets with countersunk heads that matched nicely with the aluminum track. I then rented a large rivet setter that would set 1/4 dia rivets. The installation seems strong and I haven't had any corrosion (I was worried as I did not know the alloy)

Arnold Amenda




aamenda@ix.netcom.com