CD 27: Fresh Water Flush of YSM 8
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Richard Gelfand
CD 27: Fresh Water Flush of YSM 8
It has been suggested by a diesel mechanic to install a "T" connection and valve in the raw water intake hose, just before the filter. This to allow flushing of the engine with fresh water fed from a bucket drawn through a hose off the valve. Also suggested the occasional use of "saltaway" mixed in with the fresh water. Anyone out there employing such a system?
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Bob Ohler
Re: CD 27: Fresh Water Flush of YSM 8
Richard, I installed a tee in the intake hose last year for my Yanmar 1GM. I used a brass pipe fitting for the tee, and threaded the necessary hose barbs into both ends. I keep the "middle" position of the plugged, except when I remove it to thread in an adapter to accept the end of the dock hose. You only need to run the hose on very low pressure. DON'T turn it up full force. You only need enough water pressure to supply the intake pump. You'd be amazed at how little water they draw.
This is a nice little project, although it may take a couple of visits to different hardware stores to find the exact fittings that you need, especially the female hose adapter.
Good luck.
Bob Ohler
CD25D, Hull #2
"Aloha Spirit"
bobohler@chesapeake.net
This is a nice little project, although it may take a couple of visits to different hardware stores to find the exact fittings that you need, especially the female hose adapter.
Good luck.
Bob Ohler
CD25D, Hull #2
"Aloha Spirit"
bobohler@chesapeake.net
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Lyn Heiges
Re: CD 27: Fresh Water Flush of YSM 8
Richard,
I think that installation of your proposed system is great! I bought the parts, but never installed such a system on my CD27's YSM-8. This will also aid with putting antifreeze in the engine if and when necessary.
A couple of points, however. Make sure you affix a "Y" valve in the system to choose between the outside raw-water or the inside "bucket" water (antifreeze) source. Make sure that the "Y" valve is firmly mounted to something in the area for relief of the strain applied in turning the handle. If you do the ANTIFREEZE bit with the boat remaining in the water, MAKE SURE you CLOSE the RAW-WATER SEACOCK first and then throw the "Y" valve to the bucket source and pump the antifreeze through the engine. THEN throw the "Y" VALVE to the raw water position and MAKE SURE you drain the hose between the "Y" valve and the seacock AFTER you put the antifreeze in the system by removing the double clamps on the hose from the raw-water seacock and remove the feed hose.
The previous owner and I used the CD27 primarily in the upper Chesapeake Bay where the salinity is lower than other salt water bodies of water. I have never had a problem with the engine and from what I can tell the salt never had gross effects. Here in Florida I had problems with a type of mussel group getting through the grate over the raw-water seacock (kingston cock) feeding the engine cooling, so I added a raw-water strainer. Down here I don't have to do the antifreeze bit, but the salinity is great. In my CD28, when the engine was torn apart to check the heat exchanger (the Yanmar 2GM20F is fresh-water cooled -- really synthetic coolant) the mussels were found inside the heat exchanger on the raw-water side. This engine was installed in 1993 and best guess is that it had about 200 hours on it. There wasn't significant scaling therein, but there were the mussels. Now if this had been the raw-water cooled YSM-8 it would have been a VERY different story! I don't know what the cure would have been as you can't get inside the block to get the mussels out.
Warm Regards,
Lyn Heiges
CD28 MOON CHILD
CD27 GUILLEMOT
lheiges@compuserve.com
I think that installation of your proposed system is great! I bought the parts, but never installed such a system on my CD27's YSM-8. This will also aid with putting antifreeze in the engine if and when necessary.
A couple of points, however. Make sure you affix a "Y" valve in the system to choose between the outside raw-water or the inside "bucket" water (antifreeze) source. Make sure that the "Y" valve is firmly mounted to something in the area for relief of the strain applied in turning the handle. If you do the ANTIFREEZE bit with the boat remaining in the water, MAKE SURE you CLOSE the RAW-WATER SEACOCK first and then throw the "Y" valve to the bucket source and pump the antifreeze through the engine. THEN throw the "Y" VALVE to the raw water position and MAKE SURE you drain the hose between the "Y" valve and the seacock AFTER you put the antifreeze in the system by removing the double clamps on the hose from the raw-water seacock and remove the feed hose.
The previous owner and I used the CD27 primarily in the upper Chesapeake Bay where the salinity is lower than other salt water bodies of water. I have never had a problem with the engine and from what I can tell the salt never had gross effects. Here in Florida I had problems with a type of mussel group getting through the grate over the raw-water seacock (kingston cock) feeding the engine cooling, so I added a raw-water strainer. Down here I don't have to do the antifreeze bit, but the salinity is great. In my CD28, when the engine was torn apart to check the heat exchanger (the Yanmar 2GM20F is fresh-water cooled -- really synthetic coolant) the mussels were found inside the heat exchanger on the raw-water side. This engine was installed in 1993 and best guess is that it had about 200 hours on it. There wasn't significant scaling therein, but there were the mussels. Now if this had been the raw-water cooled YSM-8 it would have been a VERY different story! I don't know what the cure would have been as you can't get inside the block to get the mussels out.
Warm Regards,
Lyn Heiges
CD28 MOON CHILD
CD27 GUILLEMOT
Richard Gelfand wrote: It has been suggested by a diesel mechanic to install a "T" connection and valve in the raw water intake hose, just before the filter. This to allow flushing of the engine with fresh water fed from a bucket drawn through a hose off the valve. Also suggested the occasional use of "saltaway" mixed in with the fresh water. Anyone out there employing such a system?
lheiges@compuserve.com
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Matt Cawthorne
Re: CD 27: Fresh Water Flush of YSM 8
Richard,
I have a different engine, but I do have the setup that you describe. I do not have a "Y" valve, just a "T" connection and a shutoff valve. The T is connected to a piece of hose that is long enough to make it to within 6 inchs of the bottom of the bilge. I never use it as a bilge pump, but I guess in a last ditch effort to save a sinking boat the extra pump would be of some minimal help. The beauty of the system is in winterizing the boat. I just shut off the seacock, open the valve on the "T", drop the end into a bucket and run the engine. I first flush the system with fresh water and then add the anti-freeze to the bucket. The whole process only takes a couple of minutes. After the boat is hauled the seacock is left open to let it drain. As with any system, the more parts you have, the more chance you have of leaving the wrong valve open. If you have a salt buildup problem it sounds like a great way to help.
I like the idea of making the engine draw in the water instead of hooking it directly up to a hose. If you did accidently leave a pressure water hookup to the engine while the engine were not running it can go through the engine, into the exhaust system and (without the engine running) can back up past the valves into the combustion chamber.
Always use good quality hoses and fittings and double clamp everything.
Good luck.
Matt
Mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
I have a different engine, but I do have the setup that you describe. I do not have a "Y" valve, just a "T" connection and a shutoff valve. The T is connected to a piece of hose that is long enough to make it to within 6 inchs of the bottom of the bilge. I never use it as a bilge pump, but I guess in a last ditch effort to save a sinking boat the extra pump would be of some minimal help. The beauty of the system is in winterizing the boat. I just shut off the seacock, open the valve on the "T", drop the end into a bucket and run the engine. I first flush the system with fresh water and then add the anti-freeze to the bucket. The whole process only takes a couple of minutes. After the boat is hauled the seacock is left open to let it drain. As with any system, the more parts you have, the more chance you have of leaving the wrong valve open. If you have a salt buildup problem it sounds like a great way to help.
I like the idea of making the engine draw in the water instead of hooking it directly up to a hose. If you did accidently leave a pressure water hookup to the engine while the engine were not running it can go through the engine, into the exhaust system and (without the engine running) can back up past the valves into the combustion chamber.
Always use good quality hoses and fittings and double clamp everything.
Good luck.
Matt
Richard Gelfand wrote: It has been suggested by a diesel mechanic to install a "T" connection and valve in the raw water intake hose, just before the filter. This to allow flushing of the engine with fresh water fed from a bucket drawn through a hose off the valve. Also suggested the occasional use of "saltaway" mixed in with the fresh water. Anyone out there employing such a system?
Mcawthor@bellatlantic.net