cetol for interior teak

[rich]

I know teak questions are beaten to death. However, I could not find this question answered in the old posts. I would appreciate the opinions of more educated people than I on whether or not cetol for interior teak is a good choice. My plan was to clean it up, it's already in good shape. Apply 2-3 coats of cetol, I prefer a darker shade. And finish with 2-3 coats of the cetol gloss coat. I figure this will end my interior maintanence for a good long time and leave more time for sailing. Thanks in advance.
Rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36 Hull #32

[Jim Stull]

I know teak questions are beaten to death. However, I could not find this question answered in the old posts. I would appreciate the opinions of more educated people than I on whether or not cetol for interior teak is a good choice. My plan was to clean it up, it's already in good shape. Apply 2-3 coats of cetol, I prefer a darker shade. And finish with 2-3 coats of the cetol gloss coat. I figure this will end my interior maintanence for a good long time and leave more time for sailing. Thanks in advance.
Rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36 Hull #32

We have refinished the exterior teak using Cetol and are very happy with the results. However it does not have quite the "translucence" and depth of varnish. Protected from direct sunlight, spar varnish has been quite durable. However the Cetol would be less work to apply as minimal, between coat sanding, is required.
Jim



jtstull@icubed.com

[Jerry Axler]

I know teak questions are beaten to death. However, I could not find this question answered in the old posts. I would appreciate the opinions of more educated people than I on whether or not cetol for interior teak is a good choice. My plan was to clean it up, it's already in good shape. Apply 2-3 coats of cetol, I prefer a darker shade. And finish with 2-3 coats of the cetol gloss coat. I figure this will end my interior maintanence for a good long time and leave more time for sailing. Thanks in advance.
Rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36 Hull #32

I would not use cetol on the interior, since I am not fond of the color and there is no advantage to using it interiorly as far as I can see. You only need 2 coats on the interior with a good matte varnish, since the wood is not exposed to the elements. I use a gloss varnish on the sole and redo it every 2-3 years as needed, but the rest of the interior is rarely done with the exception of the interior of the head. I seem to do that every 5+ years because of its use as a shower.

Jerry Axler
"Shana"



cutter36@erols.com

[Lyn Heiges]

Rich,

I have been using Cetol since 1991 (before they came out with the "marine" version) on my exterior teak and have been amazed and pleased with the endurance of the coating. The color leaves a little bit to be desired in my opinion, however.

One of the characteristics of Cetol is "chipping" and it occurs when it is struck or flexed. Surfaces where work is done or used (drawers, seat backs, etc. are subject to more of this than one usually considers and they take a beating. I feel you will wind-up with a "worn" and "old" looking interior is short time. Therefore, I would not consider using Cetol as an interior finish on either of my CDs. Except for head in the CD28, which contains the shower area, there is minimal upkeep required inside the boat. There isn't enough exposure to sunlight to have a real cause real problems and some genuine, unadulterated tung oil every three or so years works just fine. I've had one of the CDs since 1984 and this has been the case. Good tung oil can be found in higher quality hardware stores or those working with antique refinishers, cabinetmakers, and the like-- and it isn't cheap. Be careful that you get good stuff. Many products found in "chain" hardware stores contain tung oil, but it is diluted and has other materials mixed in to be able sell it for a "price".

I use a satin finish varnish on the sole of the cabin and it has to be touched up every couple of years.

Best Regards,
Lyn Heiges
CD28 MOON CHILD
CD27 GUILLEMOT

I know teak questions are beaten to death. However, I could not find this question answered in the old posts. I would appreciate the opinions of more educated people than I on whether or not cetol for interior teak is a good choice. My plan was to clean it up, it's already in good shape. Apply 2-3 coats of cetol, I prefer a darker shade. And finish with 2-3 coats of the cetol gloss coat. I figure this will end my interior maintanence for a good long time and leave more time for sailing. Thanks in advance.
Rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36 Hull #32

lheiges@compuserve.com

[Donna Delahanty]

The opinions about interior teak ( or exterior teak for that matter) are many. When it comes to teak finishes,everyone has their own opinion about what is best, from oil, to Cetol, to varnish, to polyurethane, and even Liquid Gold. IMO, varnish or polyurethane varnish will be your best bet. It is a job to prepare the teak surface and build up your coats, but, once it is done your teak will
virtually be maintenance free.

The Interlux Polyurethane varnish holds up excellently. I used it
previously on our Cape Dory 25 and didn't have to do anything to the
interior teak after that for the next thirteen years, except dust or
clean spills. The interior still looked great when we sold the boat
last year. I wouldn't want any other type of finish on the teak. The varnished teak is very easy to clean, dirt doesn't get in the wood because it is sealed by the varnish, mildew doesn't grow on it, and there is no annual upkeep of the wood. And did I say it looks great!

As others have posted, I do not recommend Cetol for your interior teak.

Donna Delahanty

I know teak questions are beaten to death. However, I could not find this question answered in the old posts. I would appreciate the opinions of more educated people than I on whether or not cetol for interior teak is a good choice. My plan was to clean it up, it's already in good shape. Apply 2-3 coats of cetol, I prefer a darker shade. And finish with 2-3 coats of the cetol gloss coat. I figure this will end my interior maintanence for a good long time and leave more time for sailing. Thanks in advance.
Rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36 Hull #32

maxg@fuse.net

[Bonnie Gilmore]

I know teak questions are beaten to death. However, I could not find this question answered in the old posts. I would appreciate the opinions of more educated people than I on whether or not cetol for interior teak is a good choice. My plan was to clean it up, it's already in good shape. Apply 2-3 coats of cetol, I prefer a darker shade. And finish with 2-3 coats of the cetol gloss coat. I figure this will end my interior maintanence for a good long time and leave more time for sailing. Thanks in advance.
Rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36 Hull #32

Rich,

The current issue of Practical Sailor has an excellent piece on stains, varnishes and other protective coatings; cetol being among them. It's an interesting article in that it addresses time spent with a brush, durability and aesthetic appeal. Take a look.

Bonnie Gilmore
CD 33 Southern Cross



bgilmore@ci.santa-rosa.ca.us

[Neil Gordon]

>>Except for head in the CD28, which contains the shower area, ...<<

What's the setup for the shower? Pressure water? Hot and cold? Where does it drain? Etc.

Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[Joe Sankey]

>>Except for head in the CD28, which contains the shower area, ...<<

On hull # 383, 1985 CD28, the factory installation had the hot water heater (which had been replaced when we purchased her) in the starboard cockpit locker against the cabin bulkhead. The batteries had been displaced and moved aft. The plumbing ran inside the engine compartment along the starboard side.
The shower itself was tied in with the head sink. The drain on that boat was a grate in the sole in the head area, which allowed the water to drain into the sump, which ran along the underside of the cabin sole. From there it was pumped overboard via sump pump.
I hope this is helpful.
Joe Sankey

What's the setup for the shower? Pressure water? Hot and cold? Where does it drain? Etc.

Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167

sankey@gulftel.com

[Lyn Heiges]

Neil,

The shower is part of the arrangement with the sink in the head area. It is a hand-wand type of shower and is a hot/cold (not like my first boat that had only cold and Carol asked "Where's the other knob?" Just before she had her last shower on board until we bought a Sun Shower.) There is a 6 gallon water heater in the starboard cockpit locker which is heated by the engine when it runs or can be heated by 120VAC when the boat is tied-up with a 120 VAC power source attached and the two breakers in "ON". (Important to remember to do.)

There is a wooden grate in the sole of the head about 6-inches square and the water drains into the bilge by running under the cabin sole to the bilge.

The worst part is that it takes a toll on the wood in the head area and requires a lot of attention to keep in good condition.

Good Luck,

Lyn Heiges

>>Except for head in the CD28, which contains the shower area, ...<<

What's the setup for the shower? Pressure water? Hot and cold? Where does it drain? Etc.

Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167

lheiges@compuserve.com

[Neil Gordon]

>>The worst part is that it takes a toll on the wood in the head area...<<

That's a big part of it... the head area is *all* wood... cabinets, bulkheads, doors, etc. Plus, I'd be indroducing a lot of humidity into the boat.

Perhaps cold, salt water, cockpit showers aren't that bad afterall. <G>


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com