Repairing Teak on CD25

[Max Treece]

I have a 1974 CD25. There are two pieces of Teak that the main hatch cover slides in as part of the companionway to the cabin. The top edge of the teakwood that provides the channel for the hatch cover to slide in has broken loose for about a foot back from the cockpit end. It is a relatively small strip of wood that hasn't been broken completely off yet. Probably broked from stepping on the wood with the hatch open. What kind of glue or suggestions would you have to repair the slim strip of teakwood. I suppose it would need to be clamped for some period of time.

All ideas and suggetions appreciated.



metreece@duke-energy.com

[Ken Boyd]

Resourcinal (two part) works well, very strong, dries dark like the teak. Generally available at Ace and other hardware stores.



kboyd@snworks.com

[Boyd]

Hi Max...

You have three choices. I suggest you open up the crack by flexing the piece slighty and then introducing the glue with a toothpick letting it run into the crack. Mask off the area well with tape. If posible clean off the mating surfaces with acetone first and let dry.

Epoxy... Two part. Messy to use and clean up wet. Thicken with silica. Sometimes will not bond well to teak especially if you over clamp it. Tough to clean up when dry. Not totally waterproof and when wet will destroy varnish. Flows into cracks slowly. Set time varies but usually hours.

Resorcinol. .. two part totally waterproof but when dry leaves a dark red line. Not easily cleaned up since it tends to leave a red stain. Bonds well to teak. Does not flow well into cracks or expand to fill them. Set time is long. This is the oldest technology but works.

Gorilla glue... Single part urethane. Wet the surfaces first. Its about the consistancy of honey and will flow into a crack well. It expands and foams up making it an excellent crack filler. Totally waterproof. Bonds well to teak. Set time is a couple of hours. Clean up is easy when wet with denatured alcohol. Clean up of the dry is easy with a razor scraper.

I would suggest the Gorrilla glue based on your description. Rig up some sort of clamping or bracing to hold the part while the glue sets. If possible I suggest putting in a couple of screws for mechanical reinforcement if the situation allows.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale,Fla.

I have a 1974 CD25. There are two pieces of Teak that the main hatch cover slides in as part of the companionway to the cabin. The top edge of the teakwood that provides the channel for the hatch cover to slide in has broken loose for about a foot back from the cockpit end. It is a relatively small strip of wood that hasn't been broken completely off yet. Probably broked from stepping on the wood with the hatch open. What kind of glue or suggestions would you have to repair the slim strip of teakwood. I suppose it would need to be clamped for some period of time.

All ideas and suggetions appreciated.

Boyd@wbta.cc

[Duncan Maio]

Max:

Resourcinol will hold the best, but is a little hard to work with. I agree with Boyd - try the Gorilla Glue.

Either way, you should fill the slot in the rail with a piece of wood (or anything that will fill the slot neatly) covered with wax paper. I would also mask off around the crack on the top. With either glue, don't try to wipe it off wet - let it set up some and use a scraper or chisel to remove the excess.

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI (home of the oldest 4th of July celebration in the world)



mail@mysticmarine.net

[Eric]

Hi,

I had the same problem on Allia. It is very common. I opted for removing the top flange of that wood back to the hood (the white thing that goes over the cabin) and replace it with brass. It looks great and is strong as can be. See the photo.

ew

I have a 1974 CD25. There are two pieces of Teak that the main hatch cover slides in as part of the companionway to the cabin. The top edge of the teakwood that provides the channel for the hatch cover to slide in has broken loose for about a foot back from the cockpit end. It is a relatively small strip of wood that hasn't been broken completely off yet. Probably broked from stepping on the wood with the hatch open. What kind of glue or suggestions would you have to repair the slim strip of teakwood. I suppose it would need to be clamped for some period of time.

All ideas and suggetions appreciated.

[img]http://www.geocities.com/woodbe67/P1010011.JPG[/img]

[Carter]

I had the same exact problem-- it's a standard problem there as the boat ages. Folks put their weight there as they swing down from the upper deck, and the teak is not thick there to begin with.

I first tried West System epoxy last year, which did not hold well. This spring I opened up the teak and used Gorilla Glue, as Duncan and Boyd suggest. It's fantastic. It holds beautifully, the repair is invisible, it's waterproof, and it's very easy to use. You simply wet the surfaces and clamp. You can get a small C clamp on it there, no problemo. Excess glue sands away readily once it's dry.

As an experiment, I also used Gorilla Glue to attach new veneer to my companionway weatherboard, a very tough environment. So far, so good.

Best regards,

Carter Brey
s/v Mary Ellen
CD25 #762
City Island, NY




http://pws.prserv.net/cbrey/Winter_2004.html

[Stan W.]

Duncan is being very modest in failing to mention that his shop at Mystic Marine can make you new ones too. The ones on my boat were beyond repair and Mystic made exact copies that were a perfect fit. If you go that route, have them made so the screws holding the plastic stops enter from the side rather than from above to avoid any risk of splitting the teak. I believe that this was an inherent flaw in the original design and is how most of these cracks get started.



s.wheatley@att.net

[Max Treece]

Thanks for all the replys. Gorilla Glue sounds like the solution I need to try. Where is it commonly available? Local Hardware, West Marine, ??

I have a 1974 CD25. There are two pieces of Teak that the main hatch cover slides in as part of the companionway to the cabin. The top edge of the teakwood that provides the channel for the hatch cover to slide in has broken loose for about a foot back from the cockpit end. It is a relatively small strip of wood that hasn't been broken completely off yet. Probably broked from stepping on the wood with the hatch open. What kind of glue or suggestions would you have to repair the slim strip of teakwood. I suppose it would need to be clamped for some period of time.

All ideas and suggetions appreciated.

metreece@duke-energy.com

[Rich Abato]

Just about any hardware store or home center should have it.




Gorilla Glue Web Site
rpaNoSpamForMe@charter.net

[Mike Leonard]

Gorillia glue is one brand of Polyurathane glue. There are other brands. You will find at least one brand available at any hardware store.
Link is a post I did on the subject a couple years ago.




http://www.capedory.org/cgi-bin/wwboard.cgi?cd&46496

[gates_cliff]

The teak hatch slides on my boat are broken also. I would like to replace them completely, I and do the milling, I think. Wondering if anyone has remeoved them and if there might be some suggestions.

Thanks in advance

[lenwalker]

I just replaced mine with King Starboard aNd I'm really pleased. Starboard naturally self lubricates so the hatch slides nicely. Definitely don't miss that piece of wood!

[gates_cliff]

This past weekend, I epoxied the the exisitng wood back together again. The wood had cracked but hadn't broken off completely, yet. I consider this a temporary fix, hope it holds until next fall.

Did you remeove the entire piece of wood and mill the starboard to replicate?

That's an intriguing idea, hadn't considered it. Please keep us posted on how it holds up.

[Ben Coombs]

It seems an easy replacement project... I removed those pieces for the winter, and they are not complicated. Any woodworker could do them out of any wood you choose (with a table saw and some sanding). my previous boat had some starboard, and although impervious to the weather, it did not look nice to me.

[gates_cliff]

Ben, I plan to on milling the new pieces. I'm not a skilled cabinet maker or anything but I have done some woodworking, and feel confident I cold make them. In fact I have a stack of teak that I had planned to use. I might have to laminate/epoxy a couple of pieces to gether to get enough thickness (height wise, not width).

I am intrigued with idea of starboard though, never used it before, so don't know anything about longevity, etc.

Thanks