i just bought my '77 cd25 in time to cover her for the winter; but, the surveyor said that there was sign of leaking around the chainplates for the shrouds. suggestions about how to do the job and what caulk to use would be appreciated and, how do you reach up to the bolts through that inspection port. i've got a lot to learn. thanks
aurora@capital.net
reseating deack hardware
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: reseating deack hardware
Rebed with POLSULFIDE sealant such as Life Caulk. The bolts on the chainplates are factory torqued to specific Ft. Lb. ratings, don't guess. Look up the torque ratings in your owner's manual. If you don't have a manual post a message asking other CD25 owners for their help in getting the correct torque ratings for you. Don't use polyurethane such as 3M 5200 for rebeding as it breaks down from UV exposure. It becomes yellowed and dries out, then cracks develop and leaks ensue. Good luck on your project.keith wrote: i just bought my '77 cd25 in time to cover her for the winter; but, the surveyor said that there was sign of leaking around the chainplates for the shrouds. suggestions about how to do the job and what caulk to use would be appreciated and, how do you reach up to the bolts through that inspection port. i've got a lot to learn. thanks
Re: reseating deack hardware
I had my manual out to look for the backstay length for another CCDOA Message Board user and looked for data on the torquing. There is nothing given in the CD Owner's Manual of October, 1979, My suggestion is to contact Robinhood Yachts in Maine to get some excellent guidance as they have the CD moulds and Andy Vavolotis who was the President of CD Yachts, Inc. is associated with them. The other thing is to contact a reputable boat yard who works on CDs and other quality boats, like Embree Marine Services, Inc. in St. Petersburg, Florida for that data. Bill Shakespeare at Embree is an avid sailor, knowledgeable, thorough and reliable and would probably give you this data over the phone. His number is 727-896-0671.John wrote:Rebed with POLSULFIDE sealant such as Life Caulk. The bolts on the chainplates are factory torqued to specific Ft. Lb. ratings, don't guess. Look up the torque ratings in your owner's manual. If you don't have a manual post a message asking other CD25 owners for their help in getting the correct torque ratings for you. Don't use polyurethane such as 3M 5200 for rebeding as it breaks down from UV exposure. It becomes yellowed and dries out, then cracks develop and leaks ensue. Good luck on your project.keith wrote: i just bought my '77 cd25 in time to cover her for the winter; but, the surveyor said that there was sign of leaking around the chainplates for the shrouds. suggestions about how to do the job and what caulk to use would be appreciated and, how do you reach up to the bolts through that inspection port. i've got a lot to learn. thanks
Good luck with the project! If you think you have any damage or deterioration around the chainplate area, get some GOOD professional help because YOUR life and the life of the boat are very dependent on this high stress portion of the boat!
Best Regards,
Lyn Heiges
CD28 MOON CHILD
lheiges@compuserve.com
Re: reseating deck hardware
You may rebed with a polyurethane such as Sikaflex 240 or 231. I do agree that 5200 is too strong an adhesive as were Sikaflex is a good compromise between strength and sealant, it will also allow removal of the hardware in the future.
No matter which sealant/adhesive you choose be sure to do two things: (1)Clean the bolt holes throughly and seal the edges of the fiberglass with epoxy to insure that any future leaks do not allow water into the glass (2)Use a counter sink bit in a drill to make a chamfer on the bolt holes so that an anulus of bedding is held around the bolts when every thing is back togather(this sort of creates an o-ring around all the bolts).
Good Luck
Kevin Varga S/V The Hawk
loneeagle@ime.net
No matter which sealant/adhesive you choose be sure to do two things: (1)Clean the bolt holes throughly and seal the edges of the fiberglass with epoxy to insure that any future leaks do not allow water into the glass (2)Use a counter sink bit in a drill to make a chamfer on the bolt holes so that an anulus of bedding is held around the bolts when every thing is back togather(this sort of creates an o-ring around all the bolts).
Good Luck
Kevin Varga S/V The Hawk
loneeagle@ime.net
Re: reseating deck hardware
It seems like all the messages I've read with regard to bedding hardware to the deck recommend using an adhesive or sealant. Is there any particular reason for not using a regular bedding compound such as the one from Interlux?Kevin Varga, S/V The Hawk wrote: You may rebed with a polyurethane such as Sikaflex 240 or 231. I do agree that 5200 is too strong an adhesive as were Sikaflex is a good compromise between strength and sealant, it will also allow removal of the hardware in the future.
Re: reseating deck hardware
It is important to use a material that will adhere to the hardware and deck to some degree and be able to move with it and return to its original shape/position. Traditional beddings will not do this, they will deform and stay so, possibly creating a leak. Remember, everything on boat moves to some degree. The trick is not to choose a bedding/sealant/adhesive that adheres so well you cannot remove the hardware later.Lee wrote: It seems like all the messages I've read with regard to bedding hardware to the deck recommend using an adhesive or sealant. Is there any particular reason for not using a regular bedding compound such as the one from Interlux?
Kevin Varga loneeagle@ime.net
loneeagle@ime.net