teak/barrier coat

[jerry jordan]

i've read to postings about cetol & Tufshield, but at the boat show learned about "Teakguard" by 'ALLGUARD'; has anyone tried it?

we had the bottom of 'Softwind' sandblasted so we can start using VC17; for barrier coat, has anyone used "Gluvit" by 'Travaco'; they are the company that makes 'Marine-tex'; they claim it is an ideal and easy to use barrier coat



jljcm@nowonline.com

[Donna Delahanty]

we had the bottom of 'Softwind' sandblasted so we can start using VC17; for barrier coat, has anyone used "Gluvit" by 'Travaco'; they are the company that makes 'Marine-tex'; they claim it is an ideal and easy to use barrier coat

I am not familiar with Gluvit, but, I will try to look it up on the internet. I also have removed all the bottom paint and plan to put on barrier coats prior to the bottom paint this spring and have been researching products. I ran across an artical in Practical Sailor (June 15, 1991, Vol. 17, No. 12) "The Blistering Truth". This article gave the results of PS's lab tests of various barrier coats.

For the Water Vapor Transmission test (measures the amount of moisture absorbed after a set amount of time), the ranking order from best to worst was: Vinylester, Interprotect 2000/2001, WEST System, System 3, Devoe, VC Tar, Pettit Polypoxy, Ashland Iso, Aristech GP, CoppperClad, and AWLGRIP.

Another test, Overcoat Exposure Series measured the amount of time for blistering to occur. The results agoain ranking from best to worst were: WEST System, Interprotect 2000/2001, System 3, VC Tar, Devoe, Vinylest, Ashland Iso, Pettit Polypoxy, Aristech GP, AWLGRIP, Control.

I realize these tests are 7-8 years old and newer products or improved products have probably been made since then. I don't know if PS has done some more recent studies. I am leaning towards the Interprotect 2000 at present. I did apply it to my CD25 when I owned it after stripping 13 years of bottom paint off. The application was fairly easy. I, also, was interested in vinylesters, but heard the application is not practical for ameteurs. The application recommends post cure heating in order to get the correct cure.

Well, I guess I didn't help much, but, just wanted to give you the information I have been considering myself. Good luck in your search for the perfect barrier coat and don't work too hard this spring.

Donna Dlehanty



maxg@fuse.net

[Kurt Lyons]

Several years ago severe blistering developed on the bottom of my 1985 CD 26, Alerion. In the fall of 1995 I used a 7" high speed disc sander and 26 grit discs to remove all of the gelcoat beneath the waterline. After letting the hull air dry during the 5 month winter haul out period here in Michigan, I applied 8 thin coats (4 gallons) of System 3 epoxy resin to the bottom.
To date, the repair has been satisfactory with only a couple blisters appearing right at the waterline/topside transition point where I had only feathered the sanding and didn't competely remove the gel coat.
As luck would have it, just after completeing my repair job 3M introduced its new new line of marine coatings based on vinylester resin formulations. Based on the extensive reading and research I did prior to my project I would use the 3M products if I had to do it over. Vinylesters are the most waterproof coating available. However, at the time I did my repair only 'professional use' vinylester products were available.



klyons1@us.ibm.com