I'm intending to raise the waterline on my weekender. The original bootop started at the inscribed "Carl's Line" (as someone informed me was the correct moniker in a response to a previous query) and went up about 2 inches. Below the boottop was an inch of unpainted gelcoat, and below this was antifoulant.
This summer I noticed fouling to a level above the boottop. My intention is to put antifoulant to the top of the original boot top, which would put it 2 inches above Karl's line. I am somewhat concerned that this'll be too high and the boat will look odd sitting in the water.
Anyone got any advice? Thanks
cjordan@together.net
Typhoon waterline
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Typhoon waterline
Here's an off the wall suggestion. If the area with the fouling is not constantly submerged, how about a white bottom paint for trailerable boats?
Told you it was off the wall!
Lee
lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com
Told you it was off the wall!
Lee
cyrus jordan wrote: I'm intending to raise the waterline on my weekender. The original bootop started at the inscribed "Carl's Line" (as someone informed me was the correct moniker in a response to a previous query) and went up about 2 inches. Below the boottop was an inch of unpainted gelcoat, and below this was antifoulant.
This summer I noticed fouling to a level above the boottop. My intention is to put antifoulant to the top of the original boot top, which would put it 2 inches above Karl's line. I am somewhat concerned that this'll be too high and the boat will look odd sitting in the water.
Anyone got any advice? Thanks
lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com
Re: Typhoon waterline
Cyrus,
Like many other CD owners, I have also raised my waterline. Although many folks refer to these boats as "heavy" displacement, they do submerge quite a bit when loaded. My fouling used to be half up the boot top with the "summer gear" on the boat. I raised the antifouling up to where the top of the boot top was. I marked a new "white" space line and then a new boot top with the same width as the old.
The trick to it is you will need a carpenters square.
The carpenters square is used to mark the new boot top to maintain a constant "apparent" boot top height as viewed from the side of the boat. The actual painted boot top width on the boat hull surface will vary depending on the slope of the hull. I.E. ....it takes a wider painted boot top on a sloped surface to make it appear to have the same height as a vertical surface when viewed from the side. As you move the boot top up.....the contours of the boat will change slightly. But don't let that bother you. With the square, one can put down new lines very easily. I actually used the top of the old boot top as my reference line for the square. Once I had the lines, I took off the old boot top except for a very narrow top edge. This gave me a "line" for the new top of the new bottom paint.
I think you will find that the appearance of the Ty hull will be actually more sleek. At least, that is my opinion after seeing most CD waterline lines raised on a number of CD boat sizes.
Dana
darenius@aol.com
Like many other CD owners, I have also raised my waterline. Although many folks refer to these boats as "heavy" displacement, they do submerge quite a bit when loaded. My fouling used to be half up the boot top with the "summer gear" on the boat. I raised the antifouling up to where the top of the boot top was. I marked a new "white" space line and then a new boot top with the same width as the old.
The trick to it is you will need a carpenters square.
The carpenters square is used to mark the new boot top to maintain a constant "apparent" boot top height as viewed from the side of the boat. The actual painted boot top width on the boat hull surface will vary depending on the slope of the hull. I.E. ....it takes a wider painted boot top on a sloped surface to make it appear to have the same height as a vertical surface when viewed from the side. As you move the boot top up.....the contours of the boat will change slightly. But don't let that bother you. With the square, one can put down new lines very easily. I actually used the top of the old boot top as my reference line for the square. Once I had the lines, I took off the old boot top except for a very narrow top edge. This gave me a "line" for the new top of the new bottom paint.
I think you will find that the appearance of the Ty hull will be actually more sleek. At least, that is my opinion after seeing most CD waterline lines raised on a number of CD boat sizes.
Dana
darenius@aol.com