Well I have seen great answers to the first questions I posted,
so I guess I'll ask another...
Im a new owner of a CD25 and after dealing with engine and wiring
issues I will be ready to launch. Im looking for advice for stepping
the mast and setting up the rig... The bulk of my experience has
been on traditional wooden vessels so Im a little new at this cable
and steel bit. Any advice or experiences that I could learn from
before I begin would be helpful. Are there any tricks specific to
this boat or standing rig? Any running rigging issues I should look
out for? All and any suggestions would be great. Thanks for all
the help...
P.S. This boat does not have a Vang. Any Ideas for setting one up?
or are the fittings already on the mast and boom and I just need to
look... Thanks.
Seacliff2@aol.com
*CD 25* Advice for setting up the rig on a CD25
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Dana Arenius, Virginia, C
Re: *CD 25* Advice for setting up the rig on a CD25
Hi,
The boom vang:
Very important piece of equipment for a number of conditions. The most important is control of the mainsail shape. You should see a "bail" on the boom approx 1/3 the way back from the mast and another "bail" attached to the mast near the base of the mast.
The bails will look like "U" shaped brackets which are bolted thru the boom or mast. The vang is connected between the two bails. I installed mine with a 4/1 purchase, 3/8" line vang. Many come with a snap shackle at each end end to attach to the bails.
The purpose of it has a number of functions. If your mainsheeting which is not adjustable with a block track across the width of the boat, it is difficult to "pull down" on the boom with the mainsheet when going to windward. Such is the case if you have an outboard engine well and the mainsheeting is in the form of an inverted "V" over the engine hatch. With such sheeting, it is difficult to control the position of the boom from the centerline of the boat and it is difficult to pull down on the boom to flatten the sail going to windward. The vang helps to perform the flattening function.
In addition, the snap shackle at the base of the mast can be undone and refasten to a padeye located near the toerail on ethier side of the boat. When going downwind (wing to wing) the vang can hold the boom over to the side you want to hold it on and one does not have to worry about jibing the mainsail especially if you have a following sea (which may move you side to side) or shifting winds. Many folks refer to the vang as a "preventer" (from jibing) when used in this manner.
I strongly recommend a vang if you do not presently have it.
The standing rig:
I think the CD25 rig was pretty standard. Two lower shrouds on each side, one upper, one fore and backstay. You will need a handfull of SS cotter pins which fit the turnbuckles ( to lock them from turning after setting the wire tension). The upper spreader ends should be fitted with "spreader boots" to protect the sails from chafe. I use UV (Black) ty-raps to secure the boots instead of tape. It lasts a lot longer. I think your rig probably has 3/16" forestay/backstay/upper shrouds and 5/32" lower shrouds. The amount of tension on each depends on its use (upper, lower, forestay, etc.) and the diameter of the wire. The tension has to be set up in steps working with the shroud or stay which is in the opposite position. For instance, both the forestay and backstay are setup together, alternating between each when tensioning. The port upper shroud is setup with the starboard upper shroud. The port AFT lower shroud is setup with the FORWARD starboard lower shroud. I drop another reply later this weekend to your question and give you the values of wire tension I would use. Everyone uses something different but I use approximately 75% of the values listed by the Loos Tensionmeter. It can at least give you a starting point and you can adjust if you see the need. The important thing is that each adjustment is to setup a straight vertical mast. Many people place their head up against the mast at the slide channel and sight up the mast. One does not want the mast to "hook" to any side near the top or "bow" near the middle. Also step off the boat from time to time and look at the mast from a distance for straightness.
Dana
arenius@jlab.org
The boom vang:
Very important piece of equipment for a number of conditions. The most important is control of the mainsail shape. You should see a "bail" on the boom approx 1/3 the way back from the mast and another "bail" attached to the mast near the base of the mast.
The bails will look like "U" shaped brackets which are bolted thru the boom or mast. The vang is connected between the two bails. I installed mine with a 4/1 purchase, 3/8" line vang. Many come with a snap shackle at each end end to attach to the bails.
The purpose of it has a number of functions. If your mainsheeting which is not adjustable with a block track across the width of the boat, it is difficult to "pull down" on the boom with the mainsheet when going to windward. Such is the case if you have an outboard engine well and the mainsheeting is in the form of an inverted "V" over the engine hatch. With such sheeting, it is difficult to control the position of the boom from the centerline of the boat and it is difficult to pull down on the boom to flatten the sail going to windward. The vang helps to perform the flattening function.
In addition, the snap shackle at the base of the mast can be undone and refasten to a padeye located near the toerail on ethier side of the boat. When going downwind (wing to wing) the vang can hold the boom over to the side you want to hold it on and one does not have to worry about jibing the mainsail especially if you have a following sea (which may move you side to side) or shifting winds. Many folks refer to the vang as a "preventer" (from jibing) when used in this manner.
I strongly recommend a vang if you do not presently have it.
The standing rig:
I think the CD25 rig was pretty standard. Two lower shrouds on each side, one upper, one fore and backstay. You will need a handfull of SS cotter pins which fit the turnbuckles ( to lock them from turning after setting the wire tension). The upper spreader ends should be fitted with "spreader boots" to protect the sails from chafe. I use UV (Black) ty-raps to secure the boots instead of tape. It lasts a lot longer. I think your rig probably has 3/16" forestay/backstay/upper shrouds and 5/32" lower shrouds. The amount of tension on each depends on its use (upper, lower, forestay, etc.) and the diameter of the wire. The tension has to be set up in steps working with the shroud or stay which is in the opposite position. For instance, both the forestay and backstay are setup together, alternating between each when tensioning. The port upper shroud is setup with the starboard upper shroud. The port AFT lower shroud is setup with the FORWARD starboard lower shroud. I drop another reply later this weekend to your question and give you the values of wire tension I would use. Everyone uses something different but I use approximately 75% of the values listed by the Loos Tensionmeter. It can at least give you a starting point and you can adjust if you see the need. The important thing is that each adjustment is to setup a straight vertical mast. Many people place their head up against the mast at the slide channel and sight up the mast. One does not want the mast to "hook" to any side near the top or "bow" near the middle. Also step off the boat from time to time and look at the mast from a distance for straightness.
Dana
arenius@jlab.org
-
Dana Arenius, Virginia, C
Re: *CD 25* Advice for setting up the rig on a CD25
Hi Douglas,
As a followup to my earlier rely to rig tension, there are the tension numbers suggested by Loos Co. As I mentioned before, I use 75% of these number on my 26.
Diameter....Breaking lbs.....Forestay lbs.....Shroud lbs.
..3/32........1200...............180.................120
..1/8..........2100...............320.................240
..5/32........3300...............500.................350
..3/16........4700...............750.................500
..7/32........6300...............1000................700
..1/4..........8200...............1300................850
..9/32........9900...............1500................1000
They recommend about 15% of the breaking tension for the forestay
and about 10 to 12% for a shroud. These numbers are for a standard
rig i.e masthead. Fractional rigs sometimes have swept back spreaders
and their upper shrouds must take some of the forestay force. They can be loaded up to 20% inlieu of the 15% normal number.
Hope it helps,
Dana
arenius@jlab.org
As a followup to my earlier rely to rig tension, there are the tension numbers suggested by Loos Co. As I mentioned before, I use 75% of these number on my 26.
Diameter....Breaking lbs.....Forestay lbs.....Shroud lbs.
..3/32........1200...............180.................120
..1/8..........2100...............320.................240
..5/32........3300...............500.................350
..3/16........4700...............750.................500
..7/32........6300...............1000................700
..1/4..........8200...............1300................850
..9/32........9900...............1500................1000
They recommend about 15% of the breaking tension for the forestay
and about 10 to 12% for a shroud. These numbers are for a standard
rig i.e masthead. Fractional rigs sometimes have swept back spreaders
and their upper shrouds must take some of the forestay force. They can be loaded up to 20% inlieu of the 15% normal number.
Hope it helps,
Dana
arenius@jlab.org