I spent yesterday messing around with our new Dickinson "Newport" fireplace on our CD 31, trying to figure out where and how to install it. I haven't heard of or seen other installations on a 31, and remain curious to hear about them.
I decided to mount the stove on the forward starboard bulkhead, as close to the centerline as possible and five inches above the top of the berth. I'll put a stainless steel-clad piece of insulating board on the bulkead behind it(suggestions about obtaining both insulating baord and SS are welcome). Taking the chimney straight up would mean piercing the deck forward of the staysail traveller, so I'll angle it aft and come up between the mast and the dorade box.
I have questions about cutting a hole in the deck. The Dickinson manual specifies a 7" hole (wow), but David Low reported that this was a misprint for 5" (10/7/02). Can others confirm that? Cutting either a 5 or 7 inch hole right next to the mast worries me. It's keel-stepped mast, and the dorade vent hole already pierces the cabin top just a bit further outboard, but are there structural elements in the cabin top that I need to look out for? And how do I locate them?
David Brownlee
CD 31 #1 "Windrush"
Havre de Grace, MD
dbrownle@sas.upenn.edu
Fireplace installation CD31
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Woody
Re: Fireplace installation CD31
Dave, I have a 36 not a 31 so I am not familiar with your layout. Nevertheless, here are a few observation that might be of interest. Can you mount your fireplace any lowere than what you are talking about? Unless you have a fan on board, all your heat will rise right to the ceiling leaving little chance of heating the bulk of the cabin. An option to the stainless board might be tile. I found some Delft looking (blue & white) tile and mounted it on a thin sheet of plywood. If you are interested I can shoot a digital and send it to you. Its subjective of course but I think it adds a lot of character to the cabin. Lastly, you might look into whether or not Dickinson offers flexible piping. If so, it might get you to where you want to go with little hassle.
ewood29289@aol.com
ewood29289@aol.com
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Larry DeMers
Re: Fireplace installation CD31
David,
We have the Dickinson Newport installed in our CD30 DeLaMer, and have enjoyed it for 13 years now, using it many hundreds of hours reach year...it's cold up here on Superior! heh..
Our CD30 is set up exactly as you are contemplating, with the fireplace set about 3-4 inches above the starboard settee, and as close to the centerline as possible. Our bulkhead mount is a 3/8 in layer of Wonderboard, a fiber reinforced cement product used as a backer board in showers, under ceramic floors etc. It is cheap, and is handled like wall board. You can get it at home improvement stores. I covered the wallboard with a layer of burnished copper sheet,that was then sprayed with a layer of clearcoat to ward off corrosion. The sheet copper was bent on a brake to exactly fit the wallboard. The fireplace was then through-bolted to the bulkhead, using large fender washers on the opposite side. I also added a bent copper piece that I mounted under the fireplace, with a 1/2 in. clearance, and having the same footprint as the fireplace. This was bolted to the backer board, thinking that it would act as a heat sink should there be heat directed down to the settee. In practice, there is no heat going that way at all..the plate is always cold.
The flue goes thru the ceiling right above the fireplace, but with a slight offset of perhaps 4 inches. The exit point is starboard of the mast, aft about 1 ft. It is exactly out the way to allow mast work without fouling the charlie noble in 13 years of use. The hole IS a 5 inch hole. The stack is actually 3 in. but you want an air buffer on each side of the flue. I used a hole cutter for the two cuts (top and bottom), then removed the foam coring in the center section of the cabin roof (it's thick!)back about 3 inches, and then glued in a large coil of fiberglass insulation rope (from a fireplace store..usd to insulate fireplace doors). Use refractory cement to do the adhesion. This keeps heat from seeping into the cored area, and makes me more comfortable with this installation. Keep a 1 inch clearance with the flue as it goes through the roof..including the fiberglass rope.
Lastly, go to the hardware store and get a little round and *magnetic* thermostat for the fireplace stack, and mount it about 1/2 way up. We use the reading on this thermostat to determine the proper temps to keep the stove at. We find that 300deg. stack temp is about as hot as we want to keep it.
We added a 3inch flue control to the stack to help lower draft in higher winds or when sailing. This keeps the fuel from burning off too quickly.
As someone mentioned, a fan will be required..there is no alternative. I use a small Hella turbo fan..it draws only 100mA. (that is tiny, tiny), and moves a lot of air quietly. I aim it at the stack to remove the heat, and it drives past the box and down to the floor, and around the cabin CCW.
As a sample of how well it works, this weekend, we spent three days onboard up on Superior. Lows Friday night were 19 degreees and snowing. with highs in the 30's. We were pulled Friday afternoon, and spent the time out of the water on the cradle..so the 45 degree waters 'warmth' was lost, and the little wood stove just worked great, keeping us warm. Saturday, we ran our extension cords out 200 ft. and got the electric heater working, but the voltage drop was enough that we were probably down to 100v working voltage..
So we burned the entire weekend, and burned 3 -1 gal. ice cream buckets full of coal total and a half shopping bag of small wood chips, twigs and drift wood pieces. Not bad, and once the place was warmed up, it held the heat until the winds kicked to 35kts. The snow turned to snizzle..hail and drizzle mixed and frozen together into chips like styrofoam beads. It just blew like crazy, but Jan and I were very warm and comfy in the cabin, reading, working on "The List" for next spring, and then packing up the galley supplies and books etc. for removal this afternoon.
So our season is over..one trip left to do the final covering, and saying goodbyes all around to those that still are up there. Then it is a long 5 mn. to wait through.
Email me if you would like a few digital photos of this installation or additioinal data. It is a good way to heat, for little or nothing.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior's South Shore
demers@sgi.com
We have the Dickinson Newport installed in our CD30 DeLaMer, and have enjoyed it for 13 years now, using it many hundreds of hours reach year...it's cold up here on Superior! heh..
Our CD30 is set up exactly as you are contemplating, with the fireplace set about 3-4 inches above the starboard settee, and as close to the centerline as possible. Our bulkhead mount is a 3/8 in layer of Wonderboard, a fiber reinforced cement product used as a backer board in showers, under ceramic floors etc. It is cheap, and is handled like wall board. You can get it at home improvement stores. I covered the wallboard with a layer of burnished copper sheet,that was then sprayed with a layer of clearcoat to ward off corrosion. The sheet copper was bent on a brake to exactly fit the wallboard. The fireplace was then through-bolted to the bulkhead, using large fender washers on the opposite side. I also added a bent copper piece that I mounted under the fireplace, with a 1/2 in. clearance, and having the same footprint as the fireplace. This was bolted to the backer board, thinking that it would act as a heat sink should there be heat directed down to the settee. In practice, there is no heat going that way at all..the plate is always cold.
The flue goes thru the ceiling right above the fireplace, but with a slight offset of perhaps 4 inches. The exit point is starboard of the mast, aft about 1 ft. It is exactly out the way to allow mast work without fouling the charlie noble in 13 years of use. The hole IS a 5 inch hole. The stack is actually 3 in. but you want an air buffer on each side of the flue. I used a hole cutter for the two cuts (top and bottom), then removed the foam coring in the center section of the cabin roof (it's thick!)back about 3 inches, and then glued in a large coil of fiberglass insulation rope (from a fireplace store..usd to insulate fireplace doors). Use refractory cement to do the adhesion. This keeps heat from seeping into the cored area, and makes me more comfortable with this installation. Keep a 1 inch clearance with the flue as it goes through the roof..including the fiberglass rope.
Lastly, go to the hardware store and get a little round and *magnetic* thermostat for the fireplace stack, and mount it about 1/2 way up. We use the reading on this thermostat to determine the proper temps to keep the stove at. We find that 300deg. stack temp is about as hot as we want to keep it.
We added a 3inch flue control to the stack to help lower draft in higher winds or when sailing. This keeps the fuel from burning off too quickly.
As someone mentioned, a fan will be required..there is no alternative. I use a small Hella turbo fan..it draws only 100mA. (that is tiny, tiny), and moves a lot of air quietly. I aim it at the stack to remove the heat, and it drives past the box and down to the floor, and around the cabin CCW.
As a sample of how well it works, this weekend, we spent three days onboard up on Superior. Lows Friday night were 19 degreees and snowing. with highs in the 30's. We were pulled Friday afternoon, and spent the time out of the water on the cradle..so the 45 degree waters 'warmth' was lost, and the little wood stove just worked great, keeping us warm. Saturday, we ran our extension cords out 200 ft. and got the electric heater working, but the voltage drop was enough that we were probably down to 100v working voltage..
So we burned the entire weekend, and burned 3 -1 gal. ice cream buckets full of coal total and a half shopping bag of small wood chips, twigs and drift wood pieces. Not bad, and once the place was warmed up, it held the heat until the winds kicked to 35kts. The snow turned to snizzle..hail and drizzle mixed and frozen together into chips like styrofoam beads. It just blew like crazy, but Jan and I were very warm and comfy in the cabin, reading, working on "The List" for next spring, and then packing up the galley supplies and books etc. for removal this afternoon.
So our season is over..one trip left to do the final covering, and saying goodbyes all around to those that still are up there. Then it is a long 5 mn. to wait through.
Email me if you would like a few digital photos of this installation or additioinal data. It is a good way to heat, for little or nothing.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior's South Shore
David Brownlee wrote: I spent yesterday messing around with our new Dickinson "Newport" fireplace on our CD 31, trying to figure out where and how to install it. I haven't heard of or seen other installations on a 31, and remain curious to hear about them.
I decided to mount the stove on the forward starboard bulkhead, as close to the centerline as possible and five inches above the top of the berth. I'll put a stainless steel-clad piece of insulating board on the bulkead behind it(suggestions about obtaining both insulating baord and SS are welcome). Taking the chimney straight up would mean piercing the deck forward of the staysail traveller, so I'll angle it aft and come up between the mast and the dorade box.
I have questions about cutting a hole in the deck. The Dickinson manual specifies a 7" hole (wow), but David Low reported that this was a misprint for 5" (10/7/02). Can others confirm that? Cutting either a 5 or 7 inch hole right next to the mast worries me. It's keel-stepped mast, and the dorade vent hole already pierces the cabin top just a bit further outboard, but are there structural elements in the cabin top that I need to look out for? And how do I locate them?
David Brownlee
CD 31 #1 "Windrush"
Havre de Grace, MD
demers@sgi.com