The interior of my brass ports on my CD26 are black. After 2 days of elbow greese with various brass cleaners, Lisa finally has one of them looking very good. Anyone have any ideas for the other 5? thanks, Scott
capedorysailor@earthlink.net
Blackened Ports
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ken Coit
Leave Them Alone!
Scott,
It is so nice of Lisa to polish those ports, but how long do you think she will keep at it? Once they are "black" they stay that way for years with no further attention.
I once used an Amway brass cleaner that worked wonders on bronze bells in Edgartown, MA. I guess it would probably work on the ports too, but I never tried it.
I did manage to spill a little battery acid on a bronze fitting awhile back. It got nice and shiny very quickly. I'd guess that Amway uses a very dilute solution of sulphuric acid too. I don't recommend messing with acid, but maybe it will give you some crazy ideas. Don't forget to neutralize the acid afterwards; baking soda will do.
My choice is to leave the bronze in a stable state while I work off the other items on the list.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
It is so nice of Lisa to polish those ports, but how long do you think she will keep at it? Once they are "black" they stay that way for years with no further attention.
I once used an Amway brass cleaner that worked wonders on bronze bells in Edgartown, MA. I guess it would probably work on the ports too, but I never tried it.
I did manage to spill a little battery acid on a bronze fitting awhile back. It got nice and shiny very quickly. I'd guess that Amway uses a very dilute solution of sulphuric acid too. I don't recommend messing with acid, but maybe it will give you some crazy ideas. Don't forget to neutralize the acid afterwards; baking soda will do.
My choice is to leave the bronze in a stable state while I work off the other items on the list.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
Scott MacCready wrote: The interior of my brass ports on my CD26 are black. After 2 days of elbow greese with various brass cleaners, Lisa finally has one of them looking very good. Anyone have any ideas for the other 5? thanks, Scott
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
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Catherine Monaghan
Yes, leave them be...
The burnished bronze ports on your Cape Dory are not meant to be polished. Let them oxidize and leave them that way. They'll be a bit blackish on the interior of the boat and a bit greenish on the exterior.
Only polish smooth bronze.
And this will save you and your wife a lot of work.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
catherine_monaghanNOSPAM@merck.com
Only polish smooth bronze.
And this will save you and your wife a lot of work.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
catherine_monaghanNOSPAM@merck.com
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Scott MacCready
Re: a bit black?
As you say, the exterior is a little green. Looks fine to me. However the interior is jet black. Almost looks painted black. I'm not trying to get them to look brand new but it would be nice to know they're bronze and not plastic.
capedorysailor@earthlink.net
capedorysailor@earthlink.net
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Joe Sankey
Re: a bit black?
If you're committed to cleaning them, and don't mind making a mess, a (brass) wire wheel on an electric drill will knock off the black stuff, and you can get to most of it with a small wheel. You'll have to wipe down the interior and you ought to wear a mask but it will work.
Joe Sankey (waiting for Isidore)
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL
sankey@gulftel.com
Joe Sankey (waiting for Isidore)
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL
Scott MacCready wrote: As you say, the exterior is a little green. Looks fine to me. However the interior is jet black. Almost looks painted black. I'm not trying to get them to look brand new but it would be nice to know they're bronze and not plastic.
sankey@gulftel.com
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Larry DeMers
Re: Leave Them Alone!
Ken and all,
Don't do it..Don't! I did it..used another approach though..used toilet bowl cleaner (base) on the exterior surface, and it did indeed shine up *immediately*. Truly fantastic..then I neutralized and washed and rinsed the surfaces off, and enjoyed the beauty. Unfortunately, I was gazing at the last port done..when I looked at the first pport, it was changing before my eyes..turning black, with a tinge of blue in it..almost like it was burned. Up to this point, we had three weekends in it. Bummed beyond belief..our brand new boat..ruined..oh the ignimony of it all. Well, it took another three weekends to go back and use a dilute acid (hydrochloric mixed 1 part to 1000) to try to return them to their brite condition (I had not learned yet). Well, the acid did give me immediate results that were very nice. I stopped with one port, then used baking soda in warm water apainted on with a brush, in order to get into every single pit and crag in the rough surface. >>>HINT<<<
Heh, well this effort also failed miserably. I formed some salt in the process of making the chemical reaction, which turned a bright blue, and collected in the most remote areas of the port. The stuff could not be cleaned out except with a wire brush and elbow grease. Years later, we still had remnants of the experiment that went to hell.
The problem is the rough surface of the metal. These ports come in two flavors..rough or basicly the results of the sand casting..and polished, where some poor dude has to stand in front of a polishing wheel and make that metal gleam. In the process, he smoothes out the surface to nicely polished condition. This costs about 1/3 of the ports cost extra, as I recall. The rough surface will hold the acid or base, even after it has been 'neutralized'..the neutralization does not get deep enough into the pits a nd so the process continues, even after you think it is all gone. Then there is the problems with the washed off water running on the deck and thru the scuppers..it will discolor that whole pathway, and it goes into the gelcoat grain itself..a dark brown/black stain.
Man, leave those chemicals alone. It will do NOTHING for you, but keep you very busy for a long time.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior
demers@sgi.com
Don't do it..Don't! I did it..used another approach though..used toilet bowl cleaner (base) on the exterior surface, and it did indeed shine up *immediately*. Truly fantastic..then I neutralized and washed and rinsed the surfaces off, and enjoyed the beauty. Unfortunately, I was gazing at the last port done..when I looked at the first pport, it was changing before my eyes..turning black, with a tinge of blue in it..almost like it was burned. Up to this point, we had three weekends in it. Bummed beyond belief..our brand new boat..ruined..oh the ignimony of it all. Well, it took another three weekends to go back and use a dilute acid (hydrochloric mixed 1 part to 1000) to try to return them to their brite condition (I had not learned yet). Well, the acid did give me immediate results that were very nice. I stopped with one port, then used baking soda in warm water apainted on with a brush, in order to get into every single pit and crag in the rough surface. >>>HINT<<<
Heh, well this effort also failed miserably. I formed some salt in the process of making the chemical reaction, which turned a bright blue, and collected in the most remote areas of the port. The stuff could not be cleaned out except with a wire brush and elbow grease. Years later, we still had remnants of the experiment that went to hell.
The problem is the rough surface of the metal. These ports come in two flavors..rough or basicly the results of the sand casting..and polished, where some poor dude has to stand in front of a polishing wheel and make that metal gleam. In the process, he smoothes out the surface to nicely polished condition. This costs about 1/3 of the ports cost extra, as I recall. The rough surface will hold the acid or base, even after it has been 'neutralized'..the neutralization does not get deep enough into the pits a nd so the process continues, even after you think it is all gone. Then there is the problems with the washed off water running on the deck and thru the scuppers..it will discolor that whole pathway, and it goes into the gelcoat grain itself..a dark brown/black stain.
Man, leave those chemicals alone. It will do NOTHING for you, but keep you very busy for a long time.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior
Ken Coit wrote: Scott,
It is so nice of Lisa to polish those ports, but how long do you think she will keep at it? Once they are "black" they stay that way for years with no further attention.
I once used an Amway brass cleaner that worked wonders on bronze bells in Edgartown, MA. I guess it would probably work on the ports too, but I never tried it.
I did manage to spill a little battery acid on a bronze fitting awhile back. It got nice and shiny very quickly. I'd guess that Amway uses a very dilute solution of sulphuric acid too. I don't recommend messing with acid, but maybe it will give you some crazy ideas. Don't forget to neutralize the acid afterwards; baking soda will do.
My choice is to leave the bronze in a stable state while I work off the other items on the list.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
Scott MacCready wrote: The interior of my brass ports on my CD26 are black. After 2 days of elbow greese with various brass cleaners, Lisa finally has one of them looking very good. Anyone have any ideas for the other 5? thanks, Scott
demers@sgi.com
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Woody
Re: Blackened Ports
Wow, I must be one lucky guy or the first owner dipped deep into his pockets for polished brass. I have a 1984 CD 36 and have been polishing the interior ports with Brasso for years. I do them about twice a season and they look beautiful. The exterior does have the green verdigre (spelling?)
ewood29289@aol.com
ewood29289@aol.com
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Sabourin
Re: Blackened Ports
I guess you weren't the only lucky guy, mine are polished too.Woody wrote: Wow, I must be one lucky guy or the first owner dipped deep into his pockets for polished brass. I have a 1984 CD 36 and have been polishing the interior ports with Brasso for years. I do them about twice a season and they look beautiful. The exterior does have the green verdigre (spelling?)
d
hatter 11@erols.com
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Craig
Re: Blackened Ports
I say if you want brass that shines, go ahead and polish them. Nothing like showing some real pride in boat ownership and maintenance. I have been on too many boats that show none of that and it's obvious you are different. It's like my gloss white bilge. Nobody understands it.Scott MacCready wrote: The interior of my brass ports on my CD26 are black. After 2 days of elbow greese with various brass cleaners, Lisa finally has one of them looking very good. Anyone have any ideas for the other 5? thanks, Scott
shavdog@aol.com
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Michael
Re: Leave Them Alone!
Ken and group,
When I got my CD30 Moonbow, there was basically no bronze showing. Exterior was blue green chalk, and the interior was similiar. I didn't experiment with the chemicals as part of my business is finishing metals. I found that on the interior,(before sanding down the wood) I used a 3M product called Radial Bristle Discs. If you use a dremel tool, mandrel,and the disc, you will find it will clean up the surface without compromising the "cast" look. Do wear a good canister mask as the dust is incredibly rude to your lungs. The easiest source that I'm aware of is Rio Grande. www.riogrande.com, 800-545-6566. Their catalogue page #157. The ones that worked best are 1" dark brown (36 grit) and 1"yellow (80grit). Safety glasses are a must as is the mask.
The exterior cleaned to an acceptable level with another 3M product(sounds like I have stock in them..) The green, scrubber with no sponge and a bit of Tide. Be sure to rinse right away as the blue/green will stain your gel coat.
Good luck.
Michael Kelsey
SV Moonbow CD30
Leech Lake, Minnesota
kelseys@paulbunyan.net
When I got my CD30 Moonbow, there was basically no bronze showing. Exterior was blue green chalk, and the interior was similiar. I didn't experiment with the chemicals as part of my business is finishing metals. I found that on the interior,(before sanding down the wood) I used a 3M product called Radial Bristle Discs. If you use a dremel tool, mandrel,and the disc, you will find it will clean up the surface without compromising the "cast" look. Do wear a good canister mask as the dust is incredibly rude to your lungs. The easiest source that I'm aware of is Rio Grande. www.riogrande.com, 800-545-6566. Their catalogue page #157. The ones that worked best are 1" dark brown (36 grit) and 1"yellow (80grit). Safety glasses are a must as is the mask.
The exterior cleaned to an acceptable level with another 3M product(sounds like I have stock in them..) The green, scrubber with no sponge and a bit of Tide. Be sure to rinse right away as the blue/green will stain your gel coat.
Good luck.
Michael Kelsey
SV Moonbow CD30
Leech Lake, Minnesota
Larry DeMers wrote: Ken and all,
Don't do it..Don't! I did it..used another approach though..used toilet bowl cleaner (base) on the exterior surface, and it did indeed shine up *immediately*. Truly fantastic..then I neutralized and washed and rinsed the surfaces off, and enjoyed the beauty. Unfortunately, I was gazing at the last port done..when I looked at the first pport, it was changing before my eyes..turning black, with a tinge of blue in it..almost like it was burned. Up to this point, we had three weekends in it. Bummed beyond belief..our brand new boat..ruined..oh the ignimony of it all. Well, it took another three weekends to go back and use a dilute acid (hydrochloric mixed 1 part to 1000) to try to return them to their brite condition (I had not learned yet). Well, the acid did give me immediate results that were very nice. I stopped with one port, then used baking soda in warm water apainted on with a brush, in order to get into every single pit and crag in the rough surface. >>>HINT<<<
Heh, well this effort also failed miserably. I formed some salt in the process of making the chemical reaction, which turned a bright blue, and collected in the most remote areas of the port. The stuff could not be cleaned out except with a wire brush and elbow grease. Years later, we still had remnants of the experiment that went to hell.
The problem is the rough surface of the metal. These ports come in two flavors..rough or basicly the results of the sand casting..and polished, where some poor dude has to stand in front of a polishing wheel and make that metal gleam. In the process, he smoothes out the surface to nicely polished condition. This costs about 1/3 of the ports cost extra, as I recall. The rough surface will hold the acid or base, even after it has been 'neutralized'..the neutralization does not get deep enough into the pits a nd so the process continues, even after you think it is all gone. Then there is the problems with the washed off water running on the deck and thru the scuppers..it will discolor that whole pathway, and it goes into the gelcoat grain itself..a dark brown/black stain.
Man, leave those chemicals alone. It will do NOTHING for you, but keep you very busy for a long time.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior
Ken Coit wrote: Scott,
It is so nice of Lisa to polish those ports, but how long do you think she will keep at it? Once they are "black" they stay that way for years with no further attention.
I once used an Amway brass cleaner that worked wonders on bronze bells in Edgartown, MA. I guess it would probably work on the ports too, but I never tried it.
I did manage to spill a little battery acid on a bronze fitting awhile back. It got nice and shiny very quickly. I'd guess that Amway uses a very dilute solution of sulphuric acid too. I don't recommend messing with acid, but maybe it will give you some crazy ideas. Don't forget to neutralize the acid afterwards; baking soda will do.
My choice is to leave the bronze in a stable state while I work off the other items on the list.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
Ken Coit wrote:Scott MacCready wrote: The interior of my brass ports on my CD26 are black. After 2 days of elbow greese with various brass cleaners, Lisa finally has one of them looking very good. Anyone have any ideas for the other 5? thanks, Scott
kelseys@paulbunyan.net
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David W. cd25#160,1974
Re: Blackened Ports
I think the word is patina. I replaced my fixed aluminum ports with new burnished bronze opening ones. Then I filled a spray bottle with salt water (I am land locked on White Bear Lake, MN and sometimes lake superior and I miss the ocean)and got that nice green patina-on the outside-which matches my green copper bottom paint. Yes, I know it's sick.Woody wrote: Wow, I must be one lucky guy or the first owner dipped deep into his pockets for polished brass. I have a 1984 CD 36 and have been polishing the interior ports with Brasso for years. I do them about twice a season and they look beautiful. The exterior does have the green verdigre (spelling?)
ashfordclinic@prodigy.net
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Finlay Smith
Re: Blackened Ports
We have bronze winches on our boat and I always keep them polished. I use Navel Jelly (in spray or brush on) to get the majority off and then proceed with a polish. There is no work involved with the jelly...just be sure to keep it off the teak. I have considered polishing our ports(interior only) but realized they would never shine due to pitted finish. Something to think about. If you are already committed to project...use the navel jelly and spray with a sealer or use a metal wax. I polished all the drawer pulls and sealed them several years ago. They still look great.
saylr@adelphia.net
Scott MacCready wrote: The interior of my brass ports on my CD26 are black. After 2 days of elbow greese with various brass cleaners, Lisa finally has one of them looking very good. Anyone have any ideas for the other 5? thanks, Scott
saylr@adelphia.net