Replacing Engine
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Replacing Engine
If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
dgyoung50@msn.com
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
dgyoung50@msn.com
Re: Replacing Engine
Have not repowered, but did rebuild my Volvo MD7B, and it was worth it! Repowering today on a CD30 would run close to $8k anyway, and that is if you do a lot of the work, using only the crane to lift the engine in and out. Add another $2k for expert assistance doing the work, especially if a different engine is fitted, which would require major changes to the engine bed location or angle.
Most people would never recover these costs when selling their boats either, I believe.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Most people would never recover these costs when selling their boats either, I believe.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
demers@sgi.com
Re: Replacing Engine
Doug,Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
I am seriously considering repowering my CD27 this winter. I've done my homework already so maybe this can help you. I plan to replace my old YSM8 with a new Yanmar 2GM20F (18HP). Here, on Long Island New York anyway, the job, complete comes to about $10 grand. The engine itself cost between $5400 -$5800 depending on who you call, and that was a few months ago. The labor involves removing the old engine and doing quite a bit of modification to the engine bed for the new 2GM. Some changes to the engine access have to be made also. There are new hoses and filters to be installed. There may have to be changes to the exhaust system too. This does not include the cost of a new prop. My old prop was left handed. The new prop I believe will have to be right handed. My shaft was new last year so it should be okay.
It could be less, as Larry indicated, if you plan on doing some of the work yourself. Alas, any money I might save by undertaking part of the engine project would not remain with me...as it would go directly into my orthopedic surgeon's pocket for his gallant attempt to straighten out what would otherwise be considered a human pretzel!
Nosiree. I'll let the mechanic with his skinny little helper crawl in there! Hope this helps.
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY
Setsail728@aol.com
Re: Replacing Engine
i replaced the original md7a this summer, which had 23yrs on her (22 in salt with a raw water cooling) she started leaking big time water into the crankcase...i had a kubota KD722,19 hp, with hurst tranny, installed which required the mounts be raised about 1/2",new shaft and coupling, dripless seal (despite the lack of consensus on this board), bronze sea water strainer, and 2 blade propeller,complete panel...no modifications of engine compartment, though it is tight fore and aft i lost 136lbs from the md7a's 350 lbs.....oh yea i also lost $11.5K... it ain't cheap...Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
jack cothren
s/v "Kingfisher"
CD 28 #238
jcoth49@aol.com
Re: Replacing Engine
I repowered my CD 28 with a Volvo 2020, which is actually a Perkins with the same block that about everybody uses from Japan. As I have a "new" hip, I wasn't about to install it myself, so I had a local yard do it-and at $65.00 an hour, it costs big bucks.
As I was replacing my old MD7A, I had to purchase a new prop, new shaft(the old one was too short) re-bed the engine mounts as the flywheel is now located in the back of the engine, move the engine foward and up as the new hurth transmissions are different than the old Volvo transmissions, and, had to move the stairs out to accomodate the engine.
As I plan to keep this boat for another hundred years, I also took out the fuel tank and had it cleaned completely, new hoses installed, all the thru hulls cleaned and re-packed, new large instrument panel installed, one large sea strainer installed, etc. etc. etc. Bill as about 14 big ones-but it is sure pretty and quiet!!
Ken Cave
CD 28 #227
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
As I was replacing my old MD7A, I had to purchase a new prop, new shaft(the old one was too short) re-bed the engine mounts as the flywheel is now located in the back of the engine, move the engine foward and up as the new hurth transmissions are different than the old Volvo transmissions, and, had to move the stairs out to accomodate the engine.
As I plan to keep this boat for another hundred years, I also took out the fuel tank and had it cleaned completely, new hoses installed, all the thru hulls cleaned and re-packed, new large instrument panel installed, one large sea strainer installed, etc. etc. etc. Bill as about 14 big ones-but it is sure pretty and quiet!!
Ken Cave
CD 28 #227
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
Re: Replacing Engine
Warren!Warren Kaplan wrote:Doug,Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
I am seriously considering repowering my CD27 this winter. I've done my homework already so maybe this can help you. I plan to replace my old YSM8 with a new Yanmar 2GM20F (18HP). Here, on Long Island New York anyway, the job, complete comes to about $10 grand. The engine itself cost between $5400 -$5800 depending on who you call, and that was a few months ago. The labor involves removing the old engine and doing quite a bit of modification to the engine bed for the new 2GM. Some changes to the engine access have to be made also. There are new hoses and filters to be installed. There may have to be changes to the exhaust system too. This does not include the cost of a new prop. My old prop was left handed. The new prop I believe will have to be right handed. My shaft was new last year so it should be okay.
It could be less, as Larry indicated, if you plan on doing some of the work yourself. Alas, any money I might save by undertaking part of the engine project would not remain with me...as it would go directly into my orthopedic surgeon's pocket for his gallant attempt to straighten out what would otherwise be considered a human pretzel!
Nosiree. I'll let the mechanic with his skinny little helper crawl in there! Hope this helps.
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY
If you do the work this winter, make sure the skinny little helper is actually able to crawl back out BEFORE you take delivery of the boat! Otherwise he may be stuck in there for a loooooooooooong time!!:):)
Yves
saltwater@tinyradio.com
Re: Replacing Engine
Check the latest issue of Good Old Boat for a comprehensive article on repowering. It lists all the questions and issues you should consider.
One conclusion of the author--don't repower with the hope that you'll reclaim the cost in resale value--you won't.
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD30 #252
Regent Point, VA
capedory252NOSPAM@aol.com
One conclusion of the author--don't repower with the hope that you'll reclaim the cost in resale value--you won't.
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD30 #252
Regent Point, VA
Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
capedory252NOSPAM@aol.com
Re: Replacing Engine
Yves,yves feder W1UX wrote:Warren!Warren Kaplan wrote:Doug,Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
I am seriously considering repowering my CD27 this winter. I've done my homework already so maybe this can help you. I plan to replace my old YSM8 with a new Yanmar 2GM20F (18HP). Here, on Long Island New York anyway, the job, complete comes to about $10 grand. The engine itself cost between $5400 -$5800 depending on who you call, and that was a few months ago. The labor involves removing the old engine and doing quite a bit of modification to the engine bed for the new 2GM. Some changes to the engine access have to be made also. There are new hoses and filters to be installed. There may have to be changes to the exhaust system too. This does not include the cost of a new prop. My old prop was left handed. The new prop I believe will have to be right handed. My shaft was new last year so it should be okay.
It could be less, as Larry indicated, if you plan on doing some of the work yourself. Alas, any money I might save by undertaking part of the engine project would not remain with me...as it would go directly into my orthopedic surgeon's pocket for his gallant attempt to straighten out what would otherwise be considered a human pretzel!
Nosiree. I'll let the mechanic with his skinny little helper crawl in there! Hope this helps.
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY
If you do the work this winter, make sure the skinny little helper is actually able to crawl back out BEFORE you take delivery of the boat! Otherwise he may be stuck in there for a loooooooooooong time!!:):)
Yves
I've developed a soft spot for these skinny little guys. I've watched them crawl down into the bowels of my engine compartment before, only to emerge hours later sweaty, covered with grease and oil up to their armpits, bleeding and bruised from squeezing past sharp corners, and yet, never a complaint. I've considered adopting some of these little guys. They all looked like they'd benefit enormously if I took them home and had my wife feed them a few home cooked meals to fatten them up. Then I came to my senses. First, there'd be no "fattening up" until the job in the engine compartment was done. Second, what if I need one of them next year? So, I guess they'll have to subsist on the standard diet of Cool-Aid and Bologna sandwiches. Contemplating that would keep me skinny too!
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY
Setsail728@aol.com
Re: Replacing Engine
Doug:
Warren was right on the money for replacing the Volvo with the Yanmar 2GM20F. My installation on my CD 28 was completed nine months ago at a cost of $5600 for the engine and another $3400 or so for installation. It included building up the engine beds about three-inches, new Racor fuel filter, new three-blade prop and shaft, dripless shaft seal, raw water strainer, hoses, wiring etc. I just logged hour no. 100, very efficient workhorse engine, cruises at 5.5 knots (In calm water) at 2300 rpm, consumes about 1/3 gallon per hour of diesel. Good luck, figure on $10-12k.
Kevin Mulligan
CD 28, # 226, "Skibbereen"
kmulligan@yahoo.com
Warren was right on the money for replacing the Volvo with the Yanmar 2GM20F. My installation on my CD 28 was completed nine months ago at a cost of $5600 for the engine and another $3400 or so for installation. It included building up the engine beds about three-inches, new Racor fuel filter, new three-blade prop and shaft, dripless shaft seal, raw water strainer, hoses, wiring etc. I just logged hour no. 100, very efficient workhorse engine, cruises at 5.5 knots (In calm water) at 2300 rpm, consumes about 1/3 gallon per hour of diesel. Good luck, figure on $10-12k.
Kevin Mulligan
CD 28, # 226, "Skibbereen"
Warren Kaplan wrote:Yves,yves feder W1UX wrote:Warren!Warren Kaplan wrote: Doug,
I am seriously considering repowering my CD27 this winter. I've done my homework already so maybe this can help you. I plan to replace my old YSM8 with a new Yanmar 2GM20F (18HP). Here, on Long Island New York anyway, the job, complete comes to about $10 grand. The engine itself cost between $5400 -$5800 depending on who you call, and that was a few months ago. The labor involves removing the old engine and doing quite a bit of modification to the engine bed for the new 2GM. Some changes to the engine access have to be made also. There are new hoses and filters to be installed. There may have to be changes to the exhaust system too. This does not include the cost of a new prop. My old prop was left handed. The new prop I believe will have to be right handed. My shaft was new last year so it should be okay.
It could be less, as Larry indicated, if you plan on doing some of the work yourself. Alas, any money I might save by undertaking part of the engine project would not remain with me...as it would go directly into my orthopedic surgeon's pocket for his gallant attempt to straighten out what would otherwise be considered a human pretzel!
Nosiree. I'll let the mechanic with his skinny little helper crawl in there! Hope this helps.
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY
If you do the work this winter, make sure the skinny little helper is actually able to crawl back out BEFORE you take delivery of the boat! Otherwise he may be stuck in there for a loooooooooooong time!!:):)
Yves
I've developed a soft spot for these skinny little guys. I've watched them crawl down into the bowels of my engine compartment before, only to emerge hours later sweaty, covered with grease and oil up to their armpits, bleeding and bruised from squeezing past sharp corners, and yet, never a complaint. I've considered adopting some of these little guys. They all looked like they'd benefit enormously if I took them home and had my wife feed them a few home cooked meals to fatten them up. Then I came to my senses. First, there'd be no "fattening up" until the job in the engine compartment was done. Second, what if I need one of them next year? So, I guess they'll have to subsist on the standard diet of Cool-Aid and Bologna sandwiches. Contemplating that would keep me skinny too!
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY
kmulligan@yahoo.com
Re: Replacing Engine
"I plan to replace my old YSM8 with a new Yanmar 2GM20F (18HP)."
Good engine choice Warren. My Dad has one of these in his Marshall
22 and it is the work horse of engines. I think if I ever do
consider re-engine I would try to up grade from my 1GM to the
2GM. The boat would be wonderful with all that power.
Bob
Ranger #144
CD25D 1984
ranger1442@hotmail.com
Good engine choice Warren. My Dad has one of these in his Marshall
22 and it is the work horse of engines. I think if I ever do
consider re-engine I would try to up grade from my 1GM to the
2GM. The boat would be wonderful with all that power.
Bob
Ranger #144
CD25D 1984
ranger1442@hotmail.com
Re: Kubota price quote
I just got off the phone with The local Kubota distributor here in King County Wa. The model D722 would be $3,431 with freight. NONE marinized and no accesories. I am very capable of doing any mods and instaling the engine. Looks like my extra cost will be getting it marinized and other accesories. Perhaps another prop, prop shaft, and mount modifications. Have any of you used a heat exchanger set up. fresh water/salt water ? It might be nice to keep it fresh water cooled. I appreciate all the feed back I am getting. Who knows maybe others will benefit from this process also.Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
dgyoung50@msn.com
Re: Replacing Engine
Douglas,Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
Beta-Marine use the kubota block and is marinized by Beta. Model#BD722 20 hp. with a Hurth HBW V-drive (2.13 ratio) Runs around $8000.00 plus freight. around $250.00 to Washington. I just installed the same engine in my CD30. The install was quite easy. New prop shaft and prop is necessary as the beta is smaller than the volvo. New water lift also. Modifing the engine mount bed also quite easy. I'am the Oregon dealer for Beta-Marine, feel free to e-mail me for particulars regarding engine. good luck, Ben
bt@benthomaslandscapers.com
Re: Replacing Engine
I replaced my md7a with the Yanmar 2gm20FV down in Trinidad (CD 30) and it was not easy. The existing beds were useless, I had to relocate the sea water seacock, new shaft, prop (yup, need right hand), and coupling. Control panel I relocated to my instument array on the bulkhead, out of the water and underfoot, new hoses, vented loop accessed by a deck plate where the old panel was located, and I also installed a full flow valve in the exhaust so I could shut it down in following seas. The exhaust was also difficult as my old water lift was worn out as well, thus having to install a vetus below the sole (fortunately I had already cut a new hatch in the sole just forward of the campanionway). Anyway I ended up replacing my seawater stainer and pre-fuel filter with a racor. My old controls were also shot, thus replaced. In the end I spent about 14K, including hauling, storage, and help (I did not redo the beds myself - the tolerances are small and I just did not feel competent to do it). I am sure I spent to much, but despite there being a Yanmar dealer, trying to get a proper installation in Trinidad is nearly impossible (e.g. the best guy I found wanted to replace the beds - glass over tapped steel, engine bolted on, with a wood and lag bolt system that seemed doomed).Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
Lesson 1, the Yanmar mounts are too soft for the engine - at low idle it shakes unbelievably (chafe and cutlass bearing wear)and I have spoken to other Yanmar dealers and mechanics who say Yanmar is simply wrong on this count. Lesson 2, the impeller cannot be replaced without removing the sea water pump, the usual clean out the port locker and heads first - not handy in an emergency. Lesson 3, although you do not "need" the extra power, especially that over a worn out MD7a, it is great in adverse circumstances. In sum, I would go with an engine, if it exists, that does not require so much redoing and I would really prefer to change the impeller quickly and easily.
S/V Tinker
matkinson54@hotmail.com
Re: Replacing Engine
The Beta-marine engine I used to replace my volvo MD7A was very easy to install, ( a doit yourselfer). The exhaust and venting, heat exchanger, fuel and water were quite simple. new prop shaft and prop, cutlass. I changed out the impellor recently and even though it faces aft took only five minutes. Just about all the marine diesels I've been around have at some point (rpm) vibrate. The kubota (Beta) does so at around 650-700 rpm. but it is only slight, not the sound and feel of a herd of sea buffalo passing through.Matthew Atkinson wrote:I replaced my md7a with the Yanmar 2gm20FV down in Trinidad (CD 30) and it was not easy. The existing beds were useless, I had to relocate the sea water seacock, new shaft, prop (yup, need right hand), and coupling. Control panel I relocated to my instument array on the bulkhead, out of the water and underfoot, new hoses, vented loop accessed by a deck plate where the old panel was located, and I also installed a full flow valve in the exhaust so I could shut it down in following seas. The exhaust was also difficult as my old water lift was worn out as well, thus having to install a vetus below the sole (fortunately I had already cut a new hatch in the sole just forward of the campanionway). Anyway I ended up replacing my seawater stainer and pre-fuel filter with a racor. My old controls were also shot, thus replaced. In the end I spent about 14K, including hauling, storage, and help (I did not redo the beds myself - the tolerances are small and I just did not feel competent to do it). I am sure I spent to much, but despite there being a Yanmar dealer, trying to get a proper installation in Trinidad is nearly impossible (e.g. the best guy I found wanted to replace the beds - glass over tapped steel, engine bolted on, with a wood and lag bolt system that seemed doomed).Douglas G Young wrote: If you have re engined how much did you spend. CD-30 CD-28 ???
5K 10K any idea of cost would help
Lesson 1, the Yanmar mounts are too soft for the engine - at low idle it shakes unbelievably (chafe and cutlass bearing wear)and I have spoken to other Yanmar dealers and mechanics who say Yanmar is simply wrong on this count. Lesson 2, the impeller cannot be replaced without removing the sea water pump, the usual clean out the port locker and heads first - not handy in an emergency. Lesson 3, although you do not "need" the extra power, especially that over a worn out MD7a, it is great in adverse circumstances. In sum, I would go with an engine, if it exists, that does not require so much redoing and I would really prefer to change the impeller quickly and easily.
S/V Tinker
The Beta was the one engine that required the least amount of fussing with the mounting beds, the volvo throttle and shifting cables matched up perfectly. I called all the dealers around and asked question after question, it got to the point they knew my voice & name when I called. Anyway I opted for none of the big four and went with the relative new comer on the market. I hope those troubles and expenses are behind you now, there must be something you can do about that impellor? A friend with a 38' choeylee with isuzu 40hp. has the same problem changing out the impellor.
Best regards, Ben
bt@benthomaslandscapers.com