It's that time of year again!
This fall my CD25 will come out of the water and is in despereate need of new paint.
I need top and bottom coats. I want to do this right and have a long term solution.
I am interested in suggestions of the best paint to use above the waterline and below.
Also, what is the apropriate method and sealant for re-setting the hardware on the deck?
Any advice is appreciated as this is my first time on this sort of project.
Thanks!
Dave
dsfiii@yahoo.com
Painting my CD25
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Painting my CD25
Hi Dave,
My bit of advice would be to get a copy of "This Old Boat" by Don Casey. This will answer all of your questions and then some.
Bob Chamberland
cha62759@traverse.com
My bit of advice would be to get a copy of "This Old Boat" by Don Casey. This will answer all of your questions and then some.
Bob Chamberland
Dave Scott wrote: It's that time of year again!
This fall my CD25 will come out of the water and is in despereate need of new paint.
I need top and bottom coats. I want to do this right and have a long term solution.
I am interested in suggestions of the best paint to use above the waterline and below.
Also, what is the apropriate method and sealant for re-setting the hardware on the deck?
Any advice is appreciated as this is my first time on this sort of project.
Thanks!
Dave
cha62759@traverse.com
Re: Painting my CD25
Dave,
I like Don Casey's book too. According to a crotchety surveyor I know he is only 25% BS! But he does suggest common sense approaches.
For rebedding your hardware on deck I would not recommend silicone but a flexible bedding compound like LifeCaulk or 3M 101. Make sure it is not a polyurethane adhesive like 3M 5200 or you will not get anything off in the future without a fight! I used silicone when I redid my Typhoon and I was not happy with either its working properties or how well it lasts.
When using bedding compound like LifeCaulk, you can clean it off completely with paint thinner to a nice bead. Also, a good hint I used on a portlight was to seal the piece you are bedding, tighten up the bolts or screws till snug and squeezing sealant out then stop. Clean it up and bead it off. Let it cure overnight and then come back and finish tightening the bolts just a bit more to compress the bedding. Makes a nice looking, long lasting seal.
All the best,
Paul Danicic
CD 33 Christine Lynn #77
Grand Marais, MN
menogyn@YMCAmpls.org
I like Don Casey's book too. According to a crotchety surveyor I know he is only 25% BS! But he does suggest common sense approaches.
For rebedding your hardware on deck I would not recommend silicone but a flexible bedding compound like LifeCaulk or 3M 101. Make sure it is not a polyurethane adhesive like 3M 5200 or you will not get anything off in the future without a fight! I used silicone when I redid my Typhoon and I was not happy with either its working properties or how well it lasts.
When using bedding compound like LifeCaulk, you can clean it off completely with paint thinner to a nice bead. Also, a good hint I used on a portlight was to seal the piece you are bedding, tighten up the bolts or screws till snug and squeezing sealant out then stop. Clean it up and bead it off. Let it cure overnight and then come back and finish tightening the bolts just a bit more to compress the bedding. Makes a nice looking, long lasting seal.
All the best,
Paul Danicic
CD 33 Christine Lynn #77
Grand Marais, MN
menogyn@YMCAmpls.org
Re: Painting my CD25
Dave, also by Casey, Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair. Very good. I used 3m 4200 (not 5200) and like it alot. Heed Casey's advice about taping off the deck hardware so a not to get excess on deck. Also, when rebedding the bow pulpit hardware, you will save a lot of time and frustration if you take a cutting tool and hack away a nice big rectangular hole where the little circular one is in the v-berth. I covered mine with a nice piece of teak and it is pretty.
--James
jtmceach@aol.com
--James
jtmceach@aol.com