backed over line, foulled prop

[Joel S]

While applying reverse thrust to stop the boat while docking, a line attached to a fender someone had lost foulled by prop. The engine immediately stopped. No visible damage, but I haven't dared try to start the engine again. I borrowed a diving mask and a knife and untangled and cut away the line. There are still some very fine filiments wrapped about the propeller shaft. In my CD27 there is very little shaft exposed between the prop and the hull and most all of it is taken up by the zinc (which I had to have sliced in half, in order to get it to fit in the 1" space available.)

Should I try starting up in forward to see if the prop will turn and the thread remnants will unravel? Should I get a diver with a razor blade to try to remove the remnants first? Do I need to haul the boat? Is starting the engine a bad idea? Please advise. Thank goodness that this board is here to help undo life's little surprises.



joels@ids.net

[Bill Michne]

Joel:

That sort of thing happens. At the slow speeds encountered when maneuvering in or out of a slip you are unlikely to damage the engine or transmission by wrapping a line. The presence of the line is what stops the engine. If you only have some fine filaments left, go ahead and start the engine (in neutral). At idle (with boat well tied) put in forward. If the engine stops, get a diver to check it out. If not, go back to neutral, then reverse. Again, if the engine stops, get a diver. Otherwise, back out of the slip and go sailing.

Bill

While applying reverse thrust to stop the boat while docking, a line attached to a fender someone had lost foulled by prop. The engine immediately stopped. No visible damage, but I haven't dared try to start the engine again. I borrowed a diving mask and a knife and untangled and cut away the line. There are still some very fine filiments wrapped about the propeller shaft. In my CD27 there is very little shaft exposed between the prop and the hull and most all of it is taken up by the zinc (which I had to have sliced in half, in order to get it to fit in the 1" space available.)

Should I try starting up in forward to see if the prop will turn and the thread remnants will unravel? Should I get a diver with a razor blade to try to remove the remnants first? Do I need to haul the boat? Is starting the engine a bad idea? Please advise. Thank goodness that this board is here to help undo life's little surprises.

wmichne@msn.com

[John R.]

Joel,

Sounds like you have a situation worse than just the fouled line going on. I'm referencing your comments about the zinc location and how you cut the zinc to fit the small space between the prop and cutless. From your description it sounds to me like your shaft zinc is probably obstructing free water flow to the cutless and up into the shaft log to the stuffing box reducing lubrication and cooling performance. You should be using a prop nut zinc and not a shaft collar zinc because of the limited space you describe. You best look into that situation carefully.

If you have anything tangled around the boats shaft or prop get it off by whatever means necessary. No rope remnants, weeds or anything else should be tangled on that drivetrain.

While applying reverse thrust to stop the boat while docking, a line attached to a fender someone had lost foulled by prop. The engine immediately stopped. No visible damage, but I haven't dared try to start the engine again. I borrowed a diving mask and a knife and untangled and cut away the line. There are still some very fine filiments wrapped about the propeller shaft. In my CD27 there is very little shaft exposed between the prop and the hull and most all of it is taken up by the zinc (which I had to have sliced in half, in order to get it to fit in the 1" space available.)

Should I try starting up in forward to see if the prop will turn and the thread remnants will unravel? Should I get a diver with a razor blade to try to remove the remnants first? Do I need to haul the boat? Is starting the engine a bad idea? Please advise. Thank goodness that this board is here to help undo life's little surprises.

[Bob Loewenstein]

If you only have some fine filaments left, go ahead and start the engine (in neutral).

As long as you're in neutral you can certainly start the engine. But I'd be careful with filaments near the cutless bearing and running in gear. Our marina owner has a Morris 36 and got some monofilament fishing line wrapped around his shaft. It didn't stop the engine, but the heat generated by the rotating shaft caused the mono to melt and obstruct the bearing. The bearing had to be replaced ...on his boat this meant either taking the rudder off or pulling the engine (not so on the 27, though).

Couldn't you dive down and cut it away in several dives?

[Will W.]

I was out on the Bay a week or so ago and heard Magdelena come over the VHF. I tried to respond but I was too far away. Was that you possibly, or is there some other Magdelena out here on the Bay? I hope things are going well.

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25

If you only have some fine filaments left, go ahead and start the engine (in neutral).

As long as you're in neutral you can certainly start the engine. But I'd be careful with filaments near the cutless bearing and running in gear. Our marina owner has a Morris 36 and got some monofilament fishing line wrapped around his shaft. It didn't stop the engine, but the heat generated by the rotating shaft caused the mono to melt and obstruct the bearing. The bearing had to be replaced ...on his boat this meant either taking the rudder off or pulling the engine (not so on the 27, though).

Couldn't you dive down and cut it away in several dives?

willwheatley@starpower.net

[Dennis]

Check your shaft coupling also (connection between the trans. and shaft).



dennis.driscoll@roche.com

[Boyd]

Hi Joel...

I would add to the already good comments. Put the trans. in neutral and rotate the prop shaft by hand. If you detect any resistance beyond the normal find out why.

Boyd
s/v Tern
Cd30MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla

Joel:

That sort of thing happens. At the slow speeds encountered when maneuvering in or out of a slip you are unlikely to damage the engine or transmission by wrapping a line. The presence of the line is what stops the engine. If you only have some fine filaments left, go ahead and start the engine (in neutral). At idle (with boat well tied) put in forward. If the engine stops, get a diver to check it out. If not, go back to neutral, then reverse. Again, if the engine stops, get a diver. Otherwise, back out of the slip and go sailing.

Bill

While applying reverse thrust to stop the boat while docking, a line attached to a fender someone had lost foulled by prop. The engine immediately stopped. No visible damage, but I haven't dared try to start the engine again. I borrowed a diving mask and a knife and untangled and cut away the line. There are still some very fine filiments wrapped about the propeller shaft. In my CD27 there is very little shaft exposed between the prop and the hull and most all of it is taken up by the zinc (which I had to have sliced in half, in order to get it to fit in the 1" space available.)

Should I try starting up in forward to see if the prop will turn and the thread remnants will unravel? Should I get a diver with a razor blade to try to remove the remnants first? Do I need to haul the boat? Is starting the engine a bad idea? Please advise. Thank goodness that this board is here to help undo life's little surprises.

Boyd@wbta.cc