How Difficult to Remove/Replace Cutless Bearing on CD22D?

[Jim]

I am trying to decide whether to tackle the cutless bearing myself or have the boatyard do it. I have been quoted about $550 for labor. Does this sound reasonable? If I remove the square head bolts that secure the flange to the shaft, will I be able to easily slide the shaft out with the prop still attached? From that point, what is involved to remove the cutless bearing? The boatyard told me that they would have to cut away an inch or so of the glassed area behind the cutless bearing in order to remove it. Is that correct? Is the bearing glassed in? If so, how extensive and involved is the repair? Is it likely that the shaft will need to be replaced? I have about 1/8-1/16" play at the prop. If the shaft needs to be replaced, should I consider stainless or stay with bronze? Thanks.



atea@att.net

[mike]

I replaced my 25D cutlass bearing myself last year. The price the yard is quoting sounds about right, but it's not difficult to do yourself. There is an epoxy mix used on the end of the cutlass. It's more of a fairing compound, but it does get stuck to the cutless. It is not a dificult job. However, I recomend you remove the prop and shaft, it makes working on it much easier. Getting the old cutlass bearing out can be a chore. I ended up having to cut mine out with a hacksaw. (Be carefull not to cut the shaft log, it's fiberglass.)
If you need an further help, let me know, I can talk you through some ideas on the phone.

Mike



mwankum@tribune.com

[Larry McAnally]

Is it likely that the shaft will need to be replaced? I have about 1/8-1/16" play at the prop. If the shaft needs to be replaced, should I consider stainless or stay with bronze? Thanks.

Mike,
I have not replaced the cutless bearing. Hope that goes well and you can share what you learn with us.
I have replaced the shaft and that wasn't too bad. I did learn one thing that might be useful to you. The shaft did not come out by simply removing the bolts. Too many years in salt environment. The boat yard had a tool, which was essentially a weight that you put on the shaft and slide aft on the shaft(prop nut attached)to back out the shaft. Works like a hammer. Only it didn't work at first. You have to block the engine(I used blocks of wood) so that the motor mounts don't absorb the shock(like motor mounts are supposed to do).
You probably would have thought of that, but would have saved me some time, and possible damage to the mounts if I had known.
As for stainless vs bronze, Roger of Bristol Bronze makes a good argument for never using stainless where it will be submerged in saltwater. They are a source for the bronze shaft if you need to replace it.
It should be obvious if it needs replacement, wear or damage. The play you describe is most likely the bearing.
Good luck.
Larry



larrymac@gccoxmail.com