I have an old typhoon down in Coral Bay, St. John, VI. I have to get it out of the water as it needs a lot of work, but have no trailer and have no hopes of finding one specifically for this boat. Will have to customize a motorboat trailer. I assume that I will have to construct some sort of customized cadle to deal with the keel. The good news is that I only have to get it about 100 feet past the ramp. Is there anyone who could point me toward plans or instructions on the best way to do this?
paulfuchs@attglobal.com
How to construct typhoon trailer for yard.
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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JimL
Re: How to construct typhoon trailer for yard.
My website has a picture of my CD25 on the trailer (1st page), and a close-up of the rudder/aft end of keel on the trailer center rollers (2nd page). Click on the pictures for a better view.You could make the lower bunk carpet over wood.
The bottom of our keels is flat and straight. The side pads can be set up (as mine are) with a double plate that clamps a piece of square tubing for the vertical post (the plates have bolts on each side that make the plates sandwich the vertical). Your hull pads can be 3/4" ply covered with carpet, mounted on a pivot to let it match the hull (like a steel u-joint shape). There are small rails near the bottom of the keel to help guide the boat. The side pads will be positioned narrower than your waterline and about 3 feet forward and 3 feet aft of the center of the ballast. The verticals will be a few inches shorter (when positioned) than the design draft. No problem because this method gives them some adjustment.
Get the boat set onto the trailer, then raise the pads to meet the hull and tighten the clamp bolts. Mine has a pivot bolt hole drilled (with bolts in them) that let me swing the support pads (rollers on mine) away from the hull for painting. I have to loosen the clamp bolts, and pull out the forward or aft bolt to swing the pad down. It's a great system.
By the way, I discovered I can drop all the support pads (rollers) and the boat will stand on its keel just fine. Kinda' spooky, so I made up some portable stands to keep her from falling over while doing the bottom.
Additional note re: CD25. I was able to lift the boat on a 4"x4" oak block with a jack. I put the block between the second and third roller from the front and lifted the boat in order to reposition the trailer under her. The boat stood by itself on the 4x4 without touching the trailer at any point! (of course....I've always done things this way.....ever since I escaped from the institution, heh, heh, heh....)
Seriously, this trailer works well and it has NO WELDS! The frame is all bolted or clamped joints.....amazing....
Regards, JimL, CD25 #21 Odyssey III, Dana Point, CA
leinfam@earthlink.net
The bottom of our keels is flat and straight. The side pads can be set up (as mine are) with a double plate that clamps a piece of square tubing for the vertical post (the plates have bolts on each side that make the plates sandwich the vertical). Your hull pads can be 3/4" ply covered with carpet, mounted on a pivot to let it match the hull (like a steel u-joint shape). There are small rails near the bottom of the keel to help guide the boat. The side pads will be positioned narrower than your waterline and about 3 feet forward and 3 feet aft of the center of the ballast. The verticals will be a few inches shorter (when positioned) than the design draft. No problem because this method gives them some adjustment.
Get the boat set onto the trailer, then raise the pads to meet the hull and tighten the clamp bolts. Mine has a pivot bolt hole drilled (with bolts in them) that let me swing the support pads (rollers on mine) away from the hull for painting. I have to loosen the clamp bolts, and pull out the forward or aft bolt to swing the pad down. It's a great system.
By the way, I discovered I can drop all the support pads (rollers) and the boat will stand on its keel just fine. Kinda' spooky, so I made up some portable stands to keep her from falling over while doing the bottom.
Additional note re: CD25. I was able to lift the boat on a 4"x4" oak block with a jack. I put the block between the second and third roller from the front and lifted the boat in order to reposition the trailer under her. The boat stood by itself on the 4x4 without touching the trailer at any point! (of course....I've always done things this way.....ever since I escaped from the institution, heh, heh, heh....)
Seriously, this trailer works well and it has NO WELDS! The frame is all bolted or clamped joints.....amazing....
Regards, JimL, CD25 #21 Odyssey III, Dana Point, CA
leinfam@earthlink.net
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Serge Zimberoff
Escapee knows his Chops
Paul,
For an admitted 'live on the edge' escapee (hull standing free on the keel, right!) this is a very practical solution.
Just my two cents...
Serge
Ty #1700 'Cloning Around'
serge@srtrop.com
For an admitted 'live on the edge' escapee (hull standing free on the keel, right!) this is a very practical solution.
Just my two cents...
Serge
Ty #1700 'Cloning Around'
serge@srtrop.com
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John H.
Re: How to construct typhoon trailer for yard.
I don't think you need the trailer. Build a cradle out of 4x4 lumber (about $100 in lumber stateside). Then buy 5 fence posts or other uniformly round logs 5"dia or greater. You can easily pull this with a trailer style hand winch attached to your car. Just keep moving the car forward and winch the cradle toward the car. You can turn the path by angling the logs.
I could move my typhoon from the driveway to the garage easily just myself. Let me know if you have questions. JH
P.S. How did your Typhoon get to the Virgin Islands?
jhalpo@rcn.com
I could move my typhoon from the driveway to the garage easily just myself. Let me know if you have questions. JH
P.S. How did your Typhoon get to the Virgin Islands?
jhalpo@rcn.com
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Ken Coit
Re: How to construct typhoon trailer for yard.
That's how we used to launch and retrieve the Stoughton (MA) Sea Scouts USCG picket boat, all 38' and 15,700 pounds of her.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
John H. wrote: I don't think you need the trailer. Build a cradle out of 4x4 lumber (about $100 in lumber stateside). Then buy 5 fence posts or other uniformly round logs 5"dia or greater. You can easily pull this with a trailer style hand winch attached to your car. Just keep moving the car forward and winch the cradle toward the car. You can turn the path by angling the logs.
I could move my typhoon from the driveway to the garage easily just myself. Let me know if you have questions. JH
P.S. How did your Typhoon get to the Virgin Islands?
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
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Ken Coit
Well, we did use a marine railway winch and no car. (n/m)
Ken Coit wrote: That's how we used to launch and retrieve the Stoughton (MA) Sea Scouts USCG picket boat, all 38' and 15,700 pounds of her.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
John H. wrote: I don't think you need the trailer. Build a cradle out of 4x4 lumber (about $100 in lumber stateside). Then buy 5 fence posts or other uniformly round logs 5"dia or greater. You can easily pull this with a trailer style hand winch attached to your car. Just keep moving the car forward and winch the cradle toward the car. You can turn the path by angling the logs.
I could move my typhoon from the driveway to the garage easily just myself. Let me know if you have questions. JH
P.S. How did your Typhoon get to the Virgin Islands?
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com