i am considering purchasing a 1985 cd26. my surveyor said that there is water inside the rudder. is anyone familiar with this problem? how to fix it myself, or if i have to pay my local boatyard to fix it, how much they are likely to charge for such a job? pls e-mail me if you have any thoughts on this matter. thanks..don
kkelly@aol.com
cd 26 moisture in rudder question
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: cd 26 moisture in rudder question
____________________________________________________________________don koerner wrote: i am considering purchasing a 1985 cd26. my surveyor said that there is water inside the rudder. is anyone familiar with this problem? how to fix it myself, or if i have to pay my local boatyard to fix it, how much they are likely to charge for such a job? pls e-mail me if you have any thoughts on this matter. thanks..don
Couple of questions.....
1. Is the "blade" of the rudder still solid on the shaft? I.E. is there any loose movement is the tiller is held solidly?
2. Did the surveyor see discolored weeping or was is a moisture measurement?
3. Was there any cracks or splits in the rudder fiberglass? Are you in a cold weather climate?
Rudders are generally made from two fiberglass halves over a center frame or core. The rudder shaft is along the leading edge of the rudder. Horizontal "tangs" are generally welded to the shaft and extend out into the body of the rudder. Water can sometimes enter into the rudder void areas thru a glass joint or crack. The biggest problem is one caused if the water should freeze in the rudder.
The basic thought is to drain and dry the void space. Then the void is ethier filled and sealed or just resealed. A weeping location is a good indicator of where to start.
Dana
4.
darenius@aol.com
Re: cd 26 moisture in rudder question
The survey on my CD 30 also showed water in the rudder - it is apparently a typical condition. As Dana said, I found a weep then began to drill small holes - I found a substantial amount of water in the voids and below where the stainless supports were and after considering the design, the sandwich, I am not surprised. In addition, the gel coat was mainly worn off. I let it dry out, ground out the worst area and refiberglassed. I sanded off all bottom paint and coated with epoxy barrier coat, then repainted. The work was not difficult, but the water did make me nervous. On the otherhand, I made the job bigger than necessary - my grinding found no delamination or rot - probably the rudder would have been fine for years without my efforts. Still, letting it dry out and inspecting the gel coat for integrity and resurfacing if necessary, seems wise. If all else is solid, as per Dana's tests, you should be in good shape. MatthewDana wrote:____________________________________________________________________don koerner wrote: i am considering purchasing a 1985 cd26. my surveyor said that there is water inside the rudder. is anyone familiar with this problem? how to fix it myself, or if i have to pay my local boatyard to fix it, how much they are likely to charge for such a job? pls e-mail me if you have any thoughts on this matter. thanks..don
Couple of questions.....
1. Is the "blade" of the rudder still solid on the shaft? I.E. is there any loose movement is the tiller is held solidly?
2. Did the surveyor see discolored weeping or was is a moisture measurement?
3. Was there any cracks or splits in the rudder fiberglass? Are you in a cold weather climate?
Rudders are generally made from two fiberglass halves over a center frame or core. The rudder shaft is along the leading edge of the rudder. Horizontal "tangs" are generally welded to the shaft and extend out into the body of the rudder. Water can sometimes enter into the rudder void areas thru a glass joint or crack. The biggest problem is one caused if the water should freeze in the rudder.
The basic thought is to drain and dry the void space. Then the void is ethier filled and sealed or just resealed. A weeping location is a good indicator of where to start.
Dana
4.
matkinson@genesis.law.pace.edu