Cutlass bearing replacement

[Don Sargeant]

The one flaw on my CD25D #189 is the need (according to the surveyor) to replace the cutlass bearing. Is it really true that the bottom rudder post fitting has to be broken out of the glass in order to remove the rudder which has to be removed to remove the shaft? The part's cheap, the labor isn't. How bad can the bearing get before it must be replaced?



Don@cliggott.com

[Dana]

The one flaw on my CD25D #189 is the need (according to the surveyor) to replace the cutlass bearing. Is it really true that the bottom rudder post fitting has to be broken out of the glass in order to remove the rudder which has to be removed to remove the shaft? The part's cheap, the labor isn't. How bad can the bearing get before it must be replaced?

____________________________________________________________________

Don,

I am going to let those who have a CD25D respond to this one. But I could not help myself...I have to interject a comment.

It is really.....truly remarkable.....what one hears needs to be done about boat repairs.....

REMOVE THE RUDDER??????


Dana




darenius@aol.com

[Don Sargeant]

Thanks to some immediate feedback to my posting, the boatyard has become convinced that the rudder doesn't have to be removed to R&R the bearing. My thanks to Dana and Chuck for their help. I think we should all buy Walt a Christmas present for running this invaluable BBS.

The one flaw on my CD25D #189 is the need (according to the surveyor) to replace the cutlass bearing. Is it really true that the bottom rudder post fitting has to be broken out of the glass in order to remove the rudder which has to be removed to remove the shaft? The part's cheap, the labor isn't. How bad can the bearing get before it must be replaced?

____________________________________________________________________

Don,

I am going to let those who have a CD25D respond to this one. But I could not help myself...I have to interject a comment.

It is really.....truly remarkable.....what one hears needs to be done about boat repairs.....

REMOVE THE RUDDER??????


Dana

don@cliggott.com

[Stephen Crampton]

The one flaw on my CD25D #189 is the need (according to the surveyor) to replace the cutlass bearing. Is it really true that the bottom rudder post fitting has to be broken out of the glass in order to remove the rudder which has to be removed to remove the shaft? The

WHOA!!! Hold on a minute!

The cutlass bearing is not in the rudder shaft, it is in the prop shaft.

I replaced my cutless bearing on my CD22D. Here are the steps:
1. Remove the prop shaft. There are two ways to go. I removed the engine and propeller, and then pulled the shaft out through the boat. I have a Yanmar 1GM, which I was able to move by myself from the mounts back into the cabin, using boards as tracks and levers. The other way (possibly easier) is to remove the flange from the prop shaft and pull the shaft out through the back of the boat. By turning the prop a little bit this way and that way you can get it past the rudder (I suppose if you cannot, then you will have to pull the prop off the shaft).

2. Remove the old cutlass bearing. You have to chip away the epoxy around the end of the prop shaft to uncover the four set screws that hold it in place. Even with the set screws gone, you may need to cut the bearing to get it out; use a hacksaw blade to cut the rubber and bronze bearing in two place. Then pry the two pieces out carefully with a thin screwdriver or similar tool.

3. Repair any damage you may have caused up to this point. In my case, being inexperienced, I damaged the end of the prop shaft and scored the inside of it, so I had to repair it using the West system. It wasn't too difficult, even for me.

4. The rest is simple. Put the new shaft in. It should be a tight fit. Using a lubricant may help to get it in. Also, some people pack the bearing in ice ahead of time to shrink it a little.

5. Replace the set screws. Don't overtighten as you will distort the bearing. Then, expoxy over the set screws with a weak filler.

6. Replace the prop shaft, engine, flange, prop, etc.

Three final points to consider: First, when you do this job is an excellent time to have the prop and shaft balanced and trued. It only costs about $50. Second, this is an excellent time to replace your stuffing box hose, if it's never been done, and to replace your stuffing (this can be done with the shaft in place, but is much easier with the shaft out). Third, if you do remove the engine, as I did, you will have a good opportunity to get behind the engine to clean and replace hoses and such.

Good luck,
Stephen



sailing@star.net

[Don]

The yard said the propshaft wouldn't clear the rudder post so the rudder had to be taken off. I'm in CT and the boat is in NH so I couldn't assess the situation myself, but thanks to this BBS's information flow I was able to convince them that they were wrong and that there is clearance.

The one flaw on my CD25D #189 is the need (according to the surveyor) to replace the cutlass bearing. Is it really true that the bottom rudder post fitting has to be broken out of the glass in order to remove the rudder which has to be removed to remove the shaft? The

WHOA!!! Hold on a minute!

The cutlass bearing is not in the rudder shaft, it is in the prop shaft.

I replaced my cutless bearing on my CD22D. Here are the steps:
1. Remove the prop shaft. There are two ways to go. I removed the engine and propeller, and then pulled the shaft out through the boat. I have a Yanmar 1GM, which I was able to move by myself from the mounts back into the cabin, using boards as tracks and levers. The other way (possibly easier) is to remove the flange from the prop shaft and pull the shaft out through the back of the boat. By turning the prop a little bit this way and that way you can get it past the rudder (I suppose if you cannot, then you will have to pull the prop off the shaft).

2. Remove the old cutlass bearing. You have to chip away the epoxy around the end of the prop shaft to uncover the four set screws that hold it in place. Even with the set screws gone, you may need to cut the bearing to get it out; use a hacksaw blade to cut the rubber and bronze bearing in two place. Then pry the two pieces out carefully with a thin screwdriver or similar tool.

3. Repair any damage you may have caused up to this point. In my case, being inexperienced, I damaged the end of the prop shaft and scored the inside of it, so I had to repair it using the West system. It wasn't too difficult, even for me.

4. The rest is simple. Put the new shaft in. It should be a tight fit. Using a lubricant may help to get it in. Also, some people pack the bearing in ice ahead of time to shrink it a little.

5. Replace the set screws. Don't overtighten as you will distort the bearing. Then, expoxy over the set screws with a weak filler.

6. Replace the prop shaft, engine, flange, prop, etc.

Three final points to consider: First, when you do this job is an excellent time to have the prop and shaft balanced and trued. It only costs about $50. Second, this is an excellent time to replace your stuffing box hose, if it's never been done, and to replace your stuffing (this can be done with the shaft in place, but is much easier with the shaft out). Third, if you do remove the engine, as I did, you will have a good opportunity to get behind the engine to clean and replace hoses and such.

Good luck,
Stephen

Don@cliggott.com

[Lee H. Hodsdon]

Don,

Please excuse what seems to be a rather harsh response.

Without naming names, is the boat in salt water? I can only think of one marina that qualifies, but I may be incorrect. If so, take the sucker out of that yard, under the bridge and down stream. On the Maine side of the river you first pass Pattens. I rate them #1, at the mouth of the river is Dions, a close second. Dions replaced my marine bearing, shaft and coulping when I first purchased the boat, no problem and at a reasonable cost (for a boat yard).

If not salt water, suggest the crew at the yard move the tiller. They may be amazed at the improved access!!! And secondly, if they are confused by this task they are not the correct folks for the job.

Best of Luck,

Lee


The yard said the propshaft wouldn't clear the rudder post so the rudder had to be taken off. I'm in CT and the boat is in NH so I couldn't assess the situation myself, but thanks to this BBS's information flow I was able to convince them that they were wrong and that there is clearance.

The one flaw on my CD25D #189 is the need (according to the surveyor) to replace the cutlass bearing. Is it really true that the bottom rudder post fitting has to be broken out of the glass in order to remove the rudder which has to be removed to remove the shaft? The

WHOA!!! Hold on a minute!

The cutlass bearing is not in the rudder shaft, it is in the prop shaft.

I replaced my cutless bearing on my CD22D. Here are the steps:
1. Remove the prop shaft. There are two ways to go. I removed the engine and propeller, and then pulled the shaft out through the boat. I have a Yanmar 1GM, which I was able to move by myself from the mounts back into the cabin, using boards as tracks and levers. The other way (possibly easier) is to remove the flange from the prop shaft and pull the shaft out through the back of the boat. By turning the prop a little bit this way and that way you can get it past the rudder (I suppose if you cannot, then you will have to pull the prop off the shaft).

2. Remove the old cutlass bearing. You have to chip away the epoxy around the end of the prop shaft to uncover the four set screws that hold it in place. Even with the set screws gone, you may need to cut the bearing to get it out; use a hacksaw blade to cut the rubber and bronze bearing in two place. Then pry the two pieces out carefully with a thin screwdriver or similar tool.

3. Repair any damage you may have caused up to this point. In my case, being inexperienced, I damaged the end of the prop shaft and scored the inside of it, so I had to repair it using the West system. It wasn't too difficult, even for me.

4. The rest is simple. Put the new shaft in. It should be a tight fit. Using a lubricant may help to get it in. Also, some people pack the bearing in ice ahead of time to shrink it a little.

5. Replace the set screws. Don't overtighten as you will distort the bearing. Then, expoxy over the set screws with a weak filler.

6. Replace the prop shaft, engine, flange, prop, etc.

Three final points to consider: First, when you do this job is an excellent time to have the prop and shaft balanced and trued. It only costs about $50. Second, this is an excellent time to replace your stuffing box hose, if it's never been done, and to replace your stuffing (this can be done with the shaft in place, but is much easier with the shaft out). Third, if you do remove the engine, as I did, you will have a good opportunity to get behind the engine to clean and replace hoses and such.

Good luck,
Stephen

lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com