The CD28 that I just bought has many, many old screw holes in much of the teak paneling. My first thought was to use a 3/8 spade bit to open the holes and then plug them with the correct size teak plugs slightly dipped in transparent glue or a varnish, being careful not to create a hump which would have to be sanded (which would be a dreadful mess). Has anyone had this problem? Any advice would be helpful, or, if you think this is a promising idea, let me know. Thanks. Question #2: Looking for a reasonably good storm jib for a CD28. Please email me at the above address with price, etc. Thanks. Bill
meislandbill@yahoo.com
Plugging panel holes & storm jib for a CD28
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Boyd
Re: Plugging panel holes & storm jib for a CD28
Hi Bill...
I have never tried this but Constantine's Woodworkers supply sells teak veneer and a circular plug cutter. You could cut out the circular bad spot in the teak veneer plywood and the new plug from new veneer with the same cutter. Carefully removing the old spot and replacing with the new. Give it a try somewhere it doesnt show. Sounds easier than what you propose. By the way do not use a spade bit it will make a horrible mess if the pilot hole is too big. I suggest a flat bottom drill bit ... also a woodworkers specialty item.
Boyd
s/v Tern
Fort Lauderdale, Fla
Tern30@aol.com
I have never tried this but Constantine's Woodworkers supply sells teak veneer and a circular plug cutter. You could cut out the circular bad spot in the teak veneer plywood and the new plug from new veneer with the same cutter. Carefully removing the old spot and replacing with the new. Give it a try somewhere it doesnt show. Sounds easier than what you propose. By the way do not use a spade bit it will make a horrible mess if the pilot hole is too big. I suggest a flat bottom drill bit ... also a woodworkers specialty item.
Boyd
s/v Tern
Fort Lauderdale, Fla
Bill Armstrong wrote: The CD28 that I just bought has many, many old screw holes in much of the teak paneling. My first thought was to use a 3/8 spade bit to open the holes and then plug them with the correct size teak plugs slightly dipped in transparent glue or a varnish, being careful not to create a hump which would have to be sanded (which would be a dreadful mess). Has anyone had this problem? Any advice would be helpful, or, if you think this is a promising idea, let me know. Thanks. Question #2: Looking for a reasonably good storm jib for a CD28. Please email me at the above address with price, etc. Thanks. Bill
Tern30@aol.com
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Russ Campbell
Re: Plugging panel holes & storm jib for a CD28
Bill, A spade bit would make a mess. You want to use a Forescher drill(please forgive the spelling ). It will cut a nice neat hole into which you can put the appropriately sized teak plug. Good luck
Russ
russ@claybycampbell.com
Russ
Bill Armstrong wrote: The CD28 that I just bought has many, many old screw holes in much of the teak paneling. My first thought was to use a 3/8 spade bit to open the holes and then plug them with the correct size teak plugs slightly dipped in transparent glue or a varnish, being careful not to create a hump which would have to be sanded (which would be a dreadful mess). Has anyone had this problem? Any advice would be helpful, or, if you think this is a promising idea, let me know. Thanks. Question #2: Looking for a reasonably good storm jib for a CD28. Please email me at the above address with price, etc. Thanks. Bill
russ@claybycampbell.com
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Stan W.
Is it really teak?
What year is your boat? For at least some years the "teak" panels are really plastic laminate. I'm not sure when or even if CD switched over to real wood.
smwheatley@capecod.net
smwheatley@capecod.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: Is it really teak?
Oh come on now! Some of the most beautiful teak I have ever seen has been found on some Cape Dory's. They did offer several levels of finish options; from full, heavily grained teak to ash or oak laminate. Take the bow sprit for example. We have two CD30's in our marina, and one is mine, while the other I spent a year outfitting and helped to rebuild for a friend of ours who fell in love with our boat. He has an ash bowsprit, and the interior teak is very straight grained and plain by comparison to the teak in our boat. Our bowsprit is solid teak, thru and thru gauranteed. My main bulkhead is solid teak with outstanding grain and details..and is also solid thru and thru, as I have drilled it to mount our fireplace, and checked the core after drilling. Our saloon table is also solid teak. Even the cleats underneath are teak.
I have worked on what may eventually be our next boat (next year if the owners do retire to Costa Rica as they plan..they have the house built down there already), a CD36 (1984) that is also all teak..no veneers. So there indeed is a variety of wood species that were used by CD, as well as several price points that they tried to meet with varying finish levels.
Earlier CD28's had a lot of formica and cheaper laminates in the less expensive editions..but they still sail wonderfully and are Cape Dory thru and thru. I expect that this is true across their entire family of boats.
So I can assure you that in the years 1977, 1980, 1983 and 1984 (years of the boats I have helped rebuild or was responsible entirely for in the past 3 years), they did have real teak aboard in varying degrees, depending on what options the owner specified. I would agree that the variation is quite broad though.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 (1983) ~~Sailing Lake Superior~~
demers@sgi.com
I have worked on what may eventually be our next boat (next year if the owners do retire to Costa Rica as they plan..they have the house built down there already), a CD36 (1984) that is also all teak..no veneers. So there indeed is a variety of wood species that were used by CD, as well as several price points that they tried to meet with varying finish levels.
Earlier CD28's had a lot of formica and cheaper laminates in the less expensive editions..but they still sail wonderfully and are Cape Dory thru and thru. I expect that this is true across their entire family of boats.
So I can assure you that in the years 1977, 1980, 1983 and 1984 (years of the boats I have helped rebuild or was responsible entirely for in the past 3 years), they did have real teak aboard in varying degrees, depending on what options the owner specified. I would agree that the variation is quite broad though.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 (1983) ~~Sailing Lake Superior~~
Stan W. wrote: What year is your boat? For at least some years the "teak" panels are really plastic laminate. I'm not sure when or even if CD switched over to real wood.
demers@sgi.com
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Stan W.
Re: Is it really teak?
Don't get me wrong, my boat has lots of beautiful, real, solid teak trim: when I'm sanding it, I think maybe too much. However, the "teak" paneling in the cabin of my '79 CD 28 is plastic laminate. I don't know whether real wood panels were an option for CD 28s in '79, but I doubt it because my boat was otherwise nicely equipped.
Your solid teak bulkhead seems like quite an extravagance. I would expect even the best builders to use teak faced plywood in that application.
It would be interesting to hear which years/models/trim levels used real wood panels (either solid or ply) in the cabin and which used plastic laminate.
smwheatley@capecod.net
Your solid teak bulkhead seems like quite an extravagance. I would expect even the best builders to use teak faced plywood in that application.
It would be interesting to hear which years/models/trim levels used real wood panels (either solid or ply) in the cabin and which used plastic laminate.
smwheatley@capecod.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: Is it really teak?
I don't know that I would term it an extravagance, as there is a good and proper reason for using teak over most other materials..it's a stable wood in the presence of moisture..something we have an abundance of.
Just like having the option of ABS brakes on a car vs. drum brakes. You makes your choices and you plunks down your monies.
I too would love to learn more about the finish options that were present in the fleet during the 1976-86 period. I have seen *many* variations. In fact, I would say that the variations were universal in that I have not seen two CD's finished the same way at all. We have two Cd30's int he marina..two docks apart. My best friend owns the other one. His is a 1980-1 boat, and the teak is very different from ours. Close grained teak with no dark highlights, ash bow sprit, plain teak for the rub rail vs. a quarter-sawn tiger grained teak on ours. Now the former owner of our boat died a few years back, so he is not avialable for questions any longer, but he very well may have opted for a more expensive option..or not.
But I can definitely say that the bulkheads are not a laminate of any kind.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
demer@sgi.com
Just like having the option of ABS brakes on a car vs. drum brakes. You makes your choices and you plunks down your monies.
I too would love to learn more about the finish options that were present in the fleet during the 1976-86 period. I have seen *many* variations. In fact, I would say that the variations were universal in that I have not seen two CD's finished the same way at all. We have two Cd30's int he marina..two docks apart. My best friend owns the other one. His is a 1980-1 boat, and the teak is very different from ours. Close grained teak with no dark highlights, ash bow sprit, plain teak for the rub rail vs. a quarter-sawn tiger grained teak on ours. Now the former owner of our boat died a few years back, so he is not avialable for questions any longer, but he very well may have opted for a more expensive option..or not.
But I can definitely say that the bulkheads are not a laminate of any kind.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Stan W. wrote: Don't get me wrong, my boat has lots of beautiful, real, solid teak trim: when I'm sanding it, I think maybe too much. However, the "teak" paneling in the cabin of my '79 CD 28 is plastic laminate. I don't know whether real wood panels were an option for CD 28s in '79, but I doubt it because my boat was otherwise nicely equipped.
Your solid teak bulkhead seems like quite an extravagance. I would expect even the best builders to use teak faced plywood in that application.
It would be interesting to hear which years/models/trim levels used real wood panels (either solid or ply) in the cabin and which used plastic laminate.
demer@sgi.com