Leak

[Joe Sankey]

A leak has destroyed the rear teak panel under the companionway on our 1984 CD 30. I removed the panel and have begun to fabricate a suitable replacement, but the leak remains unsolved. It appears that water is getting in around the starboard scupper on the cockpit seat. It then comes over the drain hose and drips onto the counter behind the panel. That area is also where the AC wiring is located. I caulked the area around the scupper where it appeared there might be a gap between it and the glass. I used Marine Tex; perhaps the wrong product.

I understand that leaks can start in unlikely places. Certainly this area is difficult to see. However, I have been unable to feel or see any traces of water anywhere except on this fitting and the hose. I have felt around the glass and fitting; no water. And, no water is coming in on the liner, or it would drip through the hole. I will continue the search and try to isolate it; apparently it's been leaking for years. There are some hairline cracks in the gelcoat in the general vicinity of the scupper, and perhaps these are leading the water through the glass. There are no apparent voids, but who knows?

Any suggestions or ideas short of removing and re-glassing the scupper?

Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL



sankey@gulftel.com

[len]

joe

over the years i've owned my cd31 all the leaks have turned out to be where something goes through the deck or cockpit, e.g. holding tank emptying fitting, hole for the emergency tiller, water tank fills etc. so i would rebed any of those that could be giving you the leak

good luck

len
Sea Lion CD31 #49
Hingham, MA



md.frel@nwh.org

[Roger]

I repaired a leaky sea hood and hatchway last year sucessfully with polysulfide (ap?) sealant and would _not_ recommend 5200 (a permanent sealer/adheasive). My Intrepid 9m had a slow drip on hatch/liner trim above the compainion way - the original ('79) calking around the front of the hatch openning was the source. It took 1/2 day to repair and was pretty simple:

1. Remove the "stops" and slide the hatch aft.
2. Unscrew the hood and remove. This was not as easy as you think, need a good putty knife...speaks well to the good aging effects of the original sealer.
3. Clean the seahood area and prepare to re-caulk the mating surfaces _and_ around the cabin top/hatch trim opening. I found an old sweater and lots of gross stuff hidden under the seahood 8-(
4. OPTION: Paint the inner hatch and seahood surfaces for a brighter cabin. I didn't and wish I had. I did sand and varnish/oil the associated hatch and seahood teak.
5. Reseal the hood with POLYSULFIDE calk and reset its SS screws. I would not use 5200 unless you want to remove this with a chain saw next time (never say never...)
6. Reinstall the hatch and stoppers.

The leak stopped immediately and I enjoy a much dryer, less smelly cabin. BTW: you may also want check your chain plates and deck hardware for any leaks if you have a moisture problem. Now is a good time to reseal -- when you have the POLYSULFIDE out.

Roger

S/V Felicity
Intrepid 9M

A leak has destroyed the rear teak panel under the companionway on our 1984 CD 30. I removed the panel and have begun to fabricate a suitable replacement, but the leak remains unsolved. It appears that water is getting in around the starboard scupper on the cockpit seat. It then comes over the drain hose and drips onto the counter behind the panel. That area is also where the AC wiring is located. I caulked the area around the scupper where it appeared there might be a gap between it and the glass. I used Marine Tex; perhaps the wrong product.

I understand that leaks can start in unlikely places. Certainly this area is difficult to see. However, I have been unable to feel or see any traces of water anywhere except on this fitting and the hose. I have felt around the glass and fitting; no water. And, no water is coming in on the liner, or it would drip through the hole. I will continue the search and try to isolate it; apparently it's been leaking for years. There are some hairline cracks in the gelcoat in the general vicinity of the scupper, and perhaps these are leading the water through the glass. There are no apparent voids, but who knows?

Any suggestions or ideas short of removing and re-glassing the scupper?

Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL

rward@efortress.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Roger,

Is there a brand name to the polysulfide sealer you mention? Is 3M 4200 a polysulfide, and would you recommend it, or is it too tenacious?

One thing I did when I removed the hatch stops, I took them home and made new ones, but out of what??? Turned out the place I could find hard rubber readilly available was the heels of some old work boots I had down in the basement. Cut two slabs from the heels very carefully on the bandsaw, traced the old stops and viola, new hard rubber stops. The old ones were cracked and crumbling.

FWIW.....

Dave Stump
Hanalei

[Don Carr]

Dave; The 3M 4200 is advertised as a sealant not an adhesive so you should be OK. I prefer BoattLife which comes in various colors including 'teak' I beleive some of the 3M caulk/sealants come i ncolors too. Just stay away from 5200..

IMHO



carrds@us.ibm.com

[Hanalei]

my own question. I searched the WM site and found 3M 101 polysulfide sealant in 10 oz. cart. for 16.99, Lifecaulk poly for 13.99 and WM MultiCaulk(new WM prduct for 11.99. all same size and all sound similiar. So, it's just pick one!

Hanalei

[Leo MacDonald CD33]

Roger,

Is there a brand name to the polysulfide sealer you mention? Is 3M 4200 a polysulfide, and would you recommend it, or is it too tenacious?

One thing I did when I removed the hatch stops, I took them home and made new ones, but out of what??? Turned out the place I could find hard rubber readilly available was the heels of some old work boots I had down in the basement. Cut two slabs from the heels very carefully on the bandsaw, traced the old stops and viola, new hard rubber stops. The old ones were cracked and crumbling.

FWIW.....

Dave Stump
Hanalei

macdoreNOSPAM@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

Joe,

I have an occasional leak in the same area now. We see it once in awhile when it rains hard. The evidence..it neatly partially fills an upright plastic wine glass resting in that cupboard (essentially behind the sinks and to the left a little, or to port of the companionway).

What I have traced it down to is the small trickle of water that comes down the gutter for the companionway slides, seems to work it's way down into that cabinet. Stemming that flow will cause the water to stop dripping, and releasing it will allow it to start again after a delay of 5 min. or so.
You are right..it takes the patience of a saint to figure out where it is coming from. I was thinking of using a food coloring that is safe with fiberglass, and trying to prove this path by injecting a little in the water flow once it has started to drip. I think I know the path it takes however. It is the teak trim piece that parallels the sea hood. BUt it needs proving, and every case is remarkably different I expect.

Good Luck..I have solved a few of these leaks in that same area, but it appears that the sea hood is going to come off again and get bedded better.

Good Luck,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Apostle Islands of Lake Superior

A leak has destroyed the rear teak panel under the companionway on our 1984 CD 30. I removed the panel and have begun to fabricate a suitable replacement, but the leak remains unsolved. It appears that water is getting in around the starboard scupper on the cockpit seat. It then comes over the drain hose and drips onto the counter behind the panel. That area is also where the AC wiring is located. I caulked the area around the scupper where it appeared there might be a gap between it and the glass. I used Marine Tex; perhaps the wrong product.

I understand that leaks can start in unlikely places. Certainly this area is difficult to see. However, I have been unable to feel or see any traces of water anywhere except on this fitting and the hose. I have felt around the glass and fitting; no water. And, no water is coming in on the liner, or it would drip through the hole. I will continue the search and try to isolate it; apparently it's been leaking for years. There are some hairline cracks in the gelcoat in the general vicinity of the scupper, and perhaps these are leading the water through the glass. There are no apparent voids, but who knows?

Any suggestions or ideas short of removing and re-glassing the scupper?

Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL

demers@sgi.com

[Hanalei]

n/m

[John R.]

Dave,

3M 4200 is a fast curing version of polyurethane without the tenacious grip of 5200. There is also a fast cure 5200, don't get the two confused. Of course there is also the original 5200. Then there is 3M #101 sealant which is a polysulfide, Boatlife Lifecaulk is also a polysulfide (my preference), Sikaflex makes a polysulfide also and there are others. Read the label on any caulk you are considering and it will list its type.

Polyurethane caulks are primarily adhesives, and also serve as sealants with a permanent nature (no UV exposure).


Polysulfide caulks are primarily sealants, they do not serve as adhesives (okay with UV exposure). Polysulfides are available in a standard version, thinned version or a two part version. Each designed for a particular use.

Roger,

Is there a brand name to the polysulfide sealer you mention? Is 3M 4200 a polysulfide, and would you recommend it, or is it too tenacious?

One thing I did when I removed the hatch stops, I took them home and made new ones, but out of what??? Turned out the place I could find hard rubber readilly available was the heels of some old work boots I had down in the basement. Cut two slabs from the heels very carefully on the bandsaw, traced the old stops and viola, new hard rubber stops. The old ones were cracked and crumbling.

FWIW.....

Dave Stump
Hanalei

[Chris Schnell]

I have the same leak as Larry, except to starboard. I can put a small cup right underneath the companionway trim just behind the engine hatch and she collects water. Following the angles and intersections, and having just installed a beautiful new dodger/transition/bimini that keeps the cockpit very dry, this has to be it. (Took me a year in my house to find a pinhole in a piece of flashing that ran down and over 2 levels and approx. 50' to a skylight) Regretfully, it has already damaged the teak veneer in the corner behind the icebox below the electrical panel. Not sure yet how I'm going to repair that to match all else. I too will be removing the sea hood and will recaulk everything accessible at that time. From all I've read I'm going to try the Lifecaulk which I've not used before. The tip on painting while the sea hood and hatch are removed is excellent and will give me the opportunity to try out the paint I'd like to use for the rest of the cabin to brighten her up even more! Good luck to all of us and our leak chase! Posts successes and failures as a lessons-learned (the most valuable aspect of this board!!)

Fair Winds and Calm Seas,

Chris Schnell & Dale Hampton
s/v MADNESS III, CD30 #235
Southport, NC



swabbie@compaq.net