LED Anchor Light Design, 101 .....

[Lou Ostendorff]

Hello to All;
Well, being more than a little intrigued with the marine applications for LED's, I did some research into putting an array together. Turns out that, yes, you can solder a bunch of LEDs together, connect the battery, and get cheap light...but to build a reliable light source that will last for several years in the harsh marine environment, with the variable voltage levels on a boat, it takes 'driver circuitry'. LEDs apparently have narrow voltage and current requirements which can't be sustained by unregulated or unprotected power supplies. So, I understand, the driver circuitry does this, and guarantees the LED assembly a 'safe' and consistent environment. I've been in touch with Ken James, an engineer with Deep Creek Design, and he was nice enough to explain their Variable Pulse Width (VPW) circuitry, which does just that. They have arrived at a fairly reliable design, tested to 45v DC and guaranteed to 30v DC. Building them, however, is not real cheap. Their MK II anchor light is about $150...but I was told by Ken that Deep Creek will give our Association a 15% discount on all orders totalling $500 or more...something to think about if you have ever entertained a nearly trouble free and automatic anchor light. The MK II replacement 'bulb' fits a standard Perko series 200 All-around light...they also have other assemblies and lights (tri-color) for sale. If enough people are interested, I would be glad to coordinate the ordering....TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63



louosten@ipass.net

[Larry DeMers]

Hi Lou,

While this seems like a good deal given the cost of the design, I still have questions about *why* we want to do this? Now realize I am not playing net-cop here, or second guessing anyone, and everyone can do as they well please. But I have a legitimate question about why a $150 anchor light should replace a $8.00 lamp?

Looking at it from a purely return on investment approach (bad idea with boats), my $8 anchor light has lasted about 9 years I guess, so that amounts to $0.89 a year for the bulb. Power wise, this is the basic anchor light that all boats are usually equipped with, and it does not require additional batteries to power, although admittedly I have upgraded our banks (but certainly not for this purpose).
But a 10w bulb draws only .83A, and running over a 12 hour period, that is less than 10Ah per day.
Even the smallest single house bank of say 75 amphour capacity, with 35 useable (the 50% limit), will only be depleted 1/3 by this drain. If this were the only drain on the house bank, you could achieve three days anchoring out without recharging on the smallest deep discharge available.

Pardon me guys, but I just do not see the reason to spend lavishly for something that will not do as well as the device it replaces as far as functioning goes (explanation: the incandescent lamp has no sector boundaries for it's light output..it is omnidirectional, while the individual LEDs have a maximum angle of dispersion approaching 50 degrees, requiring several leds arranged with their sectors overlapping, complicating the design. Lou reports that a current driver is needed to smooth out the voltage variations and create a current control for the diodes..something that a resistor is usually employed to do. But apparently the voltage excursions from 10.5 thru 16v may be too much for the diodes to take, since they are being driven at or near the top of their voltage curves to get as much light as possible from them. Over voltages in this scenario will overdrive the diodes and blow them out. Thus the voltage/current limiters (drivers) -the LED design tried to do with "higher technology", what lower technology devices do better).

I would argue that if 10aH is a consideration to you, then spend $40 on a group 24 or 27 house bank, and have all the light you want. Save the $110 for good Grog next time the mood strikes! There is no justification I have read so far, for this expensive device.

This message is not intended to step on anyones toes, fingers or feelings, and is intended for the general consumption of this boards members in the hope that it can help in some small way.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Hello to All;
Well, being more than a little intrigued with the marine applications for LED's, I did some research into putting an array together. Turns out that, yes, you can solder a bunch of LEDs together, connect the battery, and get cheap light...but to build a reliable light source that will last for several years in the harsh marine environment, with the variable voltage levels on a boat, it takes 'driver circuitry'. LEDs apparently have narrow voltage and current requirements which can't be sustained by unregulated or unprotected power supplies. So, I understand, the driver circuitry does this, and guarantees the LED assembly a 'safe' and consistent environment. I've been in touch with Ken James, an engineer with Deep Creek Design, and he was nice enough to explain their Variable Pulse Width (VPW) circuitry, which does just that. They have arrived at a fairly reliable design, tested to 45v DC and guaranteed to 30v DC. Building them, however, is not real cheap. Their MK II anchor light is about $150...but I was told by Ken that Deep Creek will give our Association a 15% discount on all orders totalling $500 or more...something to think about if you have ever entertained a nearly trouble free and automatic anchor light. The MK II replacement 'bulb' fits a standard Perko series 200 All-around light...they also have other assemblies and lights (tri-color) for sale. If enough people are interested, I would be glad to coordinate the ordering....TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63

demers@sgi.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

I, too, have been intrigued by the idea of LED anchor/nav lights and actually have considered the purchase of one for the anchor light at Second Chance's masthead. However, I have to agree with Larry on the cost v. benefit. It just does not make economic sense at this point to spend that kind of money even taking into account the longevity and low current draw. Maybe when they come down to $30 to $50 it might make sense to spend the extra money for those benefits.

This is not like spending $2000 in an IBM PC XT in 1982. For that, there was a benefit in getting one AT THAT TIME, even though the technology was rapidly changing. For LED lights there would seem to be a great benefit in waiting for the inevitable price drops, and you are not giving up much by not having one now.

I guess the price will be right for LED nav lights when the price no longer causes one to "cringe." I suppose the "cringe" test governs alot of boat expenses.

Just my $.02.

Bill Goldsmith
CD27#173
Second Chance

Hi Lou,

While this seems like a good deal given the cost of the design, I still have questions about *why* we want to do this? Now realize I am not playing net-cop here, or second guessing anyone, and everyone can do as they well please. But I have a legitimate question about why a $150 anchor light should replace a $8.00 lamp?

Looking at it from a purely return on investment approach (bad idea with boats), my $8 anchor light has lasted about 9 years I guess, so that amounts to $0.89 a year for the bulb. Power wise, this is the basic anchor light that all boats are usually equipped with, and it does not require additional batteries to power, although admittedly I have upgraded our banks (but certainly not for this purpose).
But a 10w bulb draws only .83A, and running over a 12 hour period, that is less than 10Ah per day.
Even the smallest single house bank of say 75 amphour capacity, with 35 useable (the 50% limit), will only be depleted 1/3 by this drain. If this were the only drain on the house bank, you could achieve three days anchoring out without recharging on the smallest deep discharge available.

Pardon me guys, but I just do not see the reason to spend lavishly for something that will not do as well as the device it replaces as far as functioning goes (explanation: the incandescent lamp has no sector boundaries for it's light output..it is omnidirectional, while the individual LEDs have a maximum angle of dispersion approaching 50 degrees, requiring several leds arranged with their sectors overlapping, complicating the design. Lou reports that a current driver is needed to smooth out the voltage variations and create a current control for the diodes..something that a resistor is usually employed to do. But apparently the voltage excursions from 10.5 thru 16v may be too much for the diodes to take, since they are being driven at or near the top of their voltage curves to get as much light as possible from them. Over voltages in this scenario will overdrive the diodes and blow them out. Thus the voltage/current limiters (drivers) -the LED design tried to do with "higher technology", what lower technology devices do better).

I would argue that if 10aH is a consideration to you, then spend $40 on a group 24 or 27 house bank, and have all the light you want. Save the $110 for good Grog next time the mood strikes! There is no justification I have read so far, for this expensive device.

This message is not intended to step on anyones toes, fingers or feelings, and is intended for the general consumption of this boards members in the hope that it can help in some small way.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Hello to All;
Well, being more than a little intrigued with the marine applications for LED's, I did some research into putting an array together. Turns out that, yes, you can solder a bunch of LEDs together, connect the battery, and get cheap light...but to build a reliable light source that will last for several years in the harsh marine environment, with the variable voltage levels on a boat, it takes 'driver circuitry'. LEDs apparently have narrow voltage and current requirements which can't be sustained by unregulated or unprotected power supplies. So, I understand, the driver circuitry does this, and guarantees the LED assembly a 'safe' and consistent environment. I've been in touch with Ken James, an engineer with Deep Creek Design, and he was nice enough to explain their Variable Pulse Width (VPW) circuitry, which does just that. They have arrived at a fairly reliable design, tested to 45v DC and guaranteed to 30v DC. Building them, however, is not real cheap. Their MK II anchor light is about $150...but I was told by Ken that Deep Creek will give our Association a 15% discount on all orders totalling $500 or more...something to think about if you have ever entertained a nearly trouble free and automatic anchor light. The MK II replacement 'bulb' fits a standard Perko series 200 All-around light...they also have other assemblies and lights (tri-color) for sale. If enough people are interested, I would be glad to coordinate the ordering....TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63

goldy@bestweb.net

[Ken Coit]

Ah! But the "return on investment" for "spending lavishly" is in the satisfaction of the trip, not in arriving at the destination. How else could we justify spending what we do to go nowhere, from slip 23 to slip 23? The net gain in the trip is zero, but the satisfaction is nearly infinite.

Larry, like you, I am too much a Scot to spend $150 on a LED anchor light, but it would be fun to invent one that is less expensive than the Deep Creek device.

Ken



PPPparfait@nc.rr.com

[John R.]

Hi Lou,

While this seems like a good deal given the cost of the design, I still have questions about *why* we want to do this? Now realize I am not playing net-cop here, or second guessing anyone, and everyone can do as they well please. But I have a legitimate question about why a $150 anchor light should replace a $8.00 lamp?

Looking at it from a purely return on investment approach (bad idea with boats), my $8 anchor light has lasted about 9 years I guess, so that amounts to $0.89 a year for the bulb. Power wise, this is the basic anchor light that all boats are usually equipped with, and it does not require additional batteries to power, although admittedly I have upgraded our banks (but certainly not for this purpose).
But a 10w bulb draws only .83A, and running over a 12 hour period, that is less than 10Ah per day.
Even the smallest single house bank of say 75 amphour capacity, with 35 useable (the 50% limit), will only be depleted 1/3 by this drain. If this were the only drain on the house bank, you could achieve three days anchoring out without recharging on the smallest deep discharge available.

Pardon me guys, but I just do not see the reason to spend lavishly for something that will not do as well as the device it replaces as far as functioning goes (explanation: the incandescent lamp has no sector boundaries for it's light output..it is omnidirectional, while the individual LEDs have a maximum angle of dispersion approaching 50 degrees, requiring several leds arranged with their sectors overlapping, complicating the design. Lou reports that a current driver is needed to smooth out the voltage variations and create a current control for the diodes..something that a resistor is usually employed to do. But apparently the voltage excursions from 10.5 thru 16v may be too much for the diodes to take, since they are being driven at or near the top of their voltage curves to get as much light as possible from them. Over voltages in this scenario will overdrive the diodes and blow them out. Thus the voltage/current limiters (drivers) -the LED design tried to do with "higher technology", what lower technology devices do better).

I would argue that if 10aH is a consideration to you, then spend $40 on a group 24 or 27 house bank, and have all the light you want. Save the $110 for good Grog next time the mood strikes! There is no justification I have read so far, for this expensive device.

This message is not intended to step on anyones toes, fingers or feelings, and is intended for the general consumption of this boards members in the hope that it can help in some small way.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Hello to All;
Well, being more than a little intrigued with the marine applications for LED's, I did some research into putting an array together. Turns out that, yes, you can solder a bunch of LEDs together, connect the battery, and get cheap light...but to build a reliable light source that will last for several years in the harsh marine environment, with the variable voltage levels on a boat, it takes 'driver circuitry'. LEDs apparently have narrow voltage and current requirements which can't be sustained by unregulated or unprotected power supplies. So, I understand, the driver circuitry does this, and guarantees the LED assembly a 'safe' and consistent environment. I've been in touch with Ken James, an engineer with Deep Creek Design, and he was nice enough to explain their Variable Pulse Width (VPW) circuitry, which does just that. They have arrived at a fairly reliable design, tested to 45v DC and guaranteed to 30v DC. Building them, however, is not real cheap. Their MK II anchor light is about $150...but I was told by Ken that Deep Creek will give our Association a 15% discount on all orders totalling $500 or more...something to think about if you have ever entertained a nearly trouble free and automatic anchor light. The MK II replacement 'bulb' fits a standard Perko series 200 All-around light...they also have other assemblies and lights (tri-color) for sale. If enough people are interested, I would be glad to coordinate the ordering....TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63

Lou,

I generally agree with Larry's views on this lavish item. In general LED's have a greater dependability factor but the supporting circuitry can sometimes be the weak link. As Larry states I don't see the ROFI (return on funds invested) in making the plunge on one of these illumination units. It simply comes down to a pretty cheap incandescent lamp vs a ridiculously expensive high tech gizmo that has minimal benefits exceeding the cheaper version. There is a place for high tech but I don't think this is justifiable. The amperage savings is just too little to justify the $$ cost in my view.

The illumination comparison is another matter altogether. I believe the LED array would be as effective if not more so then a incandescent bulb. I believe the relative brightness is far greater with an LED. I don't know what the lumens or candlepower rating is of an LED compared to an equivelant bulb but I would bet on the LED as being quite a bit higher.

Like Larry I have had incredible service from the bulb in my Aqua Signal light amounting to years and years. The great vulnerability to bulbs is sudden shock when illuminated. For example large birds landing on masthead lights which do cause plenty of bulb failures. If a person has trouble in that regard then a switch to an LED array would be worthwhile in my opinion. It's a long way to the top to simply change a bulb.

[Larry M]

Larry
For me the anchor light is not an issue as I seldom see the need to use one in an apporved anchorage and if I do the davis mega light does fine. However the application makes sense in a masthead tricolor or standard running lights. When I look at power consumption on a long passage (100 to 150 amp hour days) on led's makes sense (3 v 30 amp hour days). I have been looking at the power generation issue and saving anywhere possible makes sense. Even at anchor this would make sense as saving 10 amp hours would allow me to generate enough with four 50 watt panels on the west coast.
Larry M
CD 33 dolce

Hi Lou,

While this seems like a good deal given the cost of the design, I still have questions about *why* we want to do this? Now realize I am not playing net-cop here, or second guessing anyone, and everyone can do as they well please. But I have a legitimate question about why a $150 anchor light should replace a $8.00 lamp?

Looking at it from a purely return on investment approach (bad idea with boats), my $8 anchor light has lasted about 9 years I guess, so that amounts to $0.89 a year for the bulb. Power wise, this is the basic anchor light that all boats are usually equipped with, and it does not require additional batteries to power, although admittedly I have upgraded our banks (but certainly not for this purpose).
But a 10w bulb draws only .83A, and running over a 12 hour period, that is less than 10Ah per day.
Even the smallest single house bank of say 75 amphour capacity, with 35 useable (the 50% limit), will only be depleted 1/3 by this drain. If this were the only drain on the house bank, you could achieve three days anchoring out without recharging on the smallest deep discharge available.

Pardon me guys, but I just do not see the reason to spend lavishly for something that will not do as well as the device it replaces as far as functioning goes (explanation: the incandescent lamp has no sector boundaries for it's light output..it is omnidirectional, while the individual LEDs have a maximum angle of dispersion approaching 50 degrees, requiring several leds arranged with their sectors overlapping, complicating the design. Lou reports that a current driver is needed to smooth out the voltage variations and create a current control for the diodes..something that a resistor is usually employed to do. But apparently the voltage excursions from 10.5 thru 16v may be too much for the diodes to take, since they are being driven at or near the top of their voltage curves to get as much light as possible from them. Over voltages in this scenario will overdrive the diodes and blow them out. Thus the voltage/current limiters (drivers) -the LED design tried to do with "higher technology", what lower technology devices do better).

I would argue that if 10aH is a consideration to you, then spend $40 on a group 24 or 27 house bank, and have all the light you want. Save the $110 for good Grog next time the mood strikes! There is no justification I have read so far, for this expensive device.

This message is not intended to step on anyones toes, fingers or feelings, and is intended for the general consumption of this boards members in the hope that it can help in some small way.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Hello to All;
Well, being more than a little intrigued with the marine applications for LED's, I did some research into putting an array together. Turns out that, yes, you can solder a bunch of LEDs together, connect the battery, and get cheap light...but to build a reliable light source that will last for several years in the harsh marine environment, with the variable voltage levels on a boat, it takes 'driver circuitry'. LEDs apparently have narrow voltage and current requirements which can't be sustained by unregulated or unprotected power supplies. So, I understand, the driver circuitry does this, and guarantees the LED assembly a 'safe' and consistent environment. I've been in touch with Ken James, an engineer with Deep Creek Design, and he was nice enough to explain their Variable Pulse Width (VPW) circuitry, which does just that. They have arrived at a fairly reliable design, tested to 45v DC and guaranteed to 30v DC. Building them, however, is not real cheap. Their MK II anchor light is about $150...but I was told by Ken that Deep Creek will give our Association a 15% discount on all orders totalling $500 or more...something to think about if you have ever entertained a nearly trouble free and automatic anchor light. The MK II replacement 'bulb' fits a standard Perko series 200 All-around light...they also have other assemblies and lights (tri-color) for sale. If enough people are interested, I would be glad to coordinate the ordering....TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63

[Larry DeMers]

Hi Ken,

Well, I can suggest other items where that $150 invested would bring back lasting fun, satisfaction or interesting diversions, all of which a LED array just does not do for me anyway (although there is certainly something about a semiconductor chip emitting photons, which then are used to warn off other vessels -that is quite alluring).
For $150 you can get some comfortable foam to replace that vberth foam and covers so that you can sleep better at night; or you can add a hand held GPS to your nav tools, allowing you to venture away from known areas more safely; or you can get a small inverter to power some tools to use while away from the dock; or you could.......etc.

I don't know about the rest of you, but my spendable income over the past 10 years has been closing in on the budget tighter and tighter, despite a thripling in my salary in that time. Every "Boat Buck" saved is one I can use when it is really needed. Now if Uncle Charlie left you a minor fortune to spend, then have fun and enjoy fully you rgood fortune. If there is any extra, I can provide a mailing address for you to send it! ;^)) heh...

I do subscribe to the belief that the pleasure is in the trip, not the destination. That made long passages possible for us.

Cheers,


Larry DeMers

Ah! But the "return on investment" for "spending lavishly" is in the satisfaction of the trip, not in arriving at the destination. How else could we justify spending what we do to go nowhere, from slip 23 to slip 23? The net gain in the trip is zero, but the satisfaction is nearly infinite.

Larry, like you, I am too much a Scot to spend $150 on a LED anchor light, but it would be fun to invent one that is less expensive than the Deep Creek device.

Ken

demers@sgi.com

[Warren Kaplan]

Please tell me about this "current driver circuitry". Whether LEDs eventually become the standard, I have no idea, but this current driver concerns me. I am a firm believe that the simpler equipment is in a nautical environment, especially a salty one, the better the chance of avoiding constant frustration. The imposition of this current driver, between the mast light switch on the distribution panel and the light fixture on the mast head I imagine is just another piece of equipment that can corrode and cause problems. I suppose it would be worth while if it was involved in a better mouse trap. But how sophisticated a mouse trap does a plain old anchor light have to be? Careful sailors under way at night will see a normal light bulb and drunk sailors wouldn't see your boat even if you had fireworks going off at the mast head for your light. Anyway, how "involved" is this circuit driver?

Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non



Setsail728@aol.com

[Lou Ostendorff]

Hi Warren and Others;
The link below shows an example of what 'driver circuitry' looks like, together with some explanations that may answer your questions. This particular product, the Versalux Module, sells for $48 US, a little more reasonable price, but the LED configuration is unsuitable for an anchor light...maybe we could approach the manufacturer to reconfigure it for anchor light use? In answer to your concern about complexity aboard, I'm a firm believer in the KISS principle...I suppose the module could be enclosed or encapsulated to make it watertight...in the Deep Creek MK II, everything is inside the 'bulb' enclosure. They have also included some other features, like RFI suppression, daylight sensing, and lossless dimming (?) whatever that is...
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63



louosten@ipass.net

[Larry DeMers]

Lou and Warren,

the lossless dimming feature is simply a way to dim the light without shunting some current to a rheostat, which would use that which was not used to make light, giving off heat. This is lost energy and a waste. They do this by creating a digital pulse of energy to the LED. The faster the pulse is, the closer it comes to being on continuously. Due to the eyes retentivity factor, the LED appears to be on continuously, when it is really on in pulses that are very short, bridging the turn-off time of the diode, so that again, it appears to be on contin uously, only dimmer than at the 'full' setting. By slowing the pulse down more, there is less total current going to the led, and so the total light out is less again.
This goes by the name of Pulse Width Modulation or PWM. It is the best way to control LED brilliance as well as incandescrnt lamps, and works well..but does cause some RFI due to the switching on and off of the load.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers

Hi Warren and Others;
The link below shows an example of what 'driver circuitry' looks like, together with some explanations that may answer your questions. This particular product, the Versalux Module, sells for $48 US, a little more reasonable price, but the LED configuration is unsuitable for an anchor light...maybe we could approach the manufacturer to reconfigure it for anchor light use? In answer to your concern about complexity aboard, I'm a firm believer in the KISS principle...I suppose the module could be enclosed or encapsulated to make it watertight...in the Deep Creek MK II, everything is inside the 'bulb' enclosure. They have also included some other features, like RFI suppression, daylight sensing, and lossless dimming (?) whatever that is...
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63

demers@sgi.com

[JimL]

Some food for thought.....Honda's new EU1000iA2 generator weighs less than 30 pounds and can charge your batteries in about 2 hours using 1/2 pint per hour at high load. This thing is TINY (I think it'll fit in a tupperware box in my lazarette). It's quiet beyond belief (the fellow in slip next to me has one) and the engine speed drops automatically when load reduces (it uses electronics to make the 60 cycle, not engine rpm). It can be paralleled to another EU1000iA2 (or the 2kw model) to make more current (like a small Air Conditioner?) The electronics recognize each other and match the sine wave!

Here's the point....you could carry one of these, running it 2 hours per day to bring your batteries up, and a 32 day passage would require 4 gallons of gas. That means you could even keep a small 12v cooler cold, by running it during the charging period (or extending the charging another hour). This thing is so quiet...it's just not a bother.

I've read some articles where folks are saying "why mess with solar chargers, or wind generators, or running the boat engine? Ditch that stuff and just charge up when you need it!"

Like I said, food for thought.....and it only costs as much as about 4 of those fancy light bulb gadgets!



leinfam@earthlink.net

[JimL]

This little guy will run a small microwave, also! (I'm a lousy cook when it comes to using flame or fire). Check out American Honda's website to read how they made this thing so small.



leinfam@earthlink.net

[Larry DeMers]

Are you serious? This is something that will never be aboard my boat, except maybe as an emergency starter/charger, sealed in it's own air tight container.

There is that nasty problem of storing gas, you know.

Doesn't it bug you a little, using up gas and creating more pollution in the air and pollution for your own ears..just to charge with?? Using solar/wind power and power provided as a byproduct of needed engine running seems to be a far smarter way to go, with a smaller impact on old ma earth. Less expensive over the long run, and you don't have to go looking for fuel either. Your method is too prone to failures and interruptions.
I have, over the years, talked to hundreds of cruisers that have come back after a few years to 5 years out and about. Generators rate up there in the most often needed to repair category, including Panda's diesel generator.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

This little guy will run a small microwave, also! (I'm a lousy cook when it comes to using flame or fire). Check out American Honda's website to read how they made this thing so small.

demers@sgi.com

[Larry M]

Jim,
The concept sounds good but the generator only puts out about 6 amps from what I can tell. That would put out 12 amps for two hours of charging which would not be enough for a passage where the average need would be 100 to 150 amp hours if one had refridgeration, radar for night, running lights, ssb,vhf etc. There seems to be no one source for power generation on a passage but the towing generators do a pretty good job putting out 80 to 120 amp hours per day which along with solar deem to do a good job. The wind generators also do a good job and are a good augment at anchor but I can not stand the thought of a tower of any sort on my boat.
Larry M
cd 33 dolce

Some food for thought.....Honda's new EU1000iA2 generator weighs less than 30 pounds and can charge your batteries in about 2 hours using 1/2 pint per hour at high load. This thing is TINY (I think it'll fit in a tupperware box in my lazarette). It's quiet beyond belief (the fellow in slip next to me has one) and the engine speed drops automatically when load reduces (it uses electronics to make the 60 cycle, not engine rpm). It can be paralleled to another EU1000iA2 (or the 2kw model) to make more current (like a small Air Conditioner?) The electronics recognize each other and match the sine wave!

Here's the point....you could carry one of these, running it 2 hours per day to bring your batteries up, and a 32 day passage would require 4 gallons of gas. That means you could even keep a small 12v cooler cold, by running it during the charging period (or extending the charging another hour). This thing is so quiet...it's just not a bother.

I've read some articles where folks are saying "why mess with solar chargers, or wind generators, or running the boat engine? Ditch that stuff and just charge up when you need it!"

Like I said, food for thought.....and it only costs as much as about 4 of those fancy light bulb gadgets!

[Don Carr]

Those wind generators are good sources but are noisy and also can be dangerous. You did want a haircut right?



carrds@us.ibm.com