After a few late-night accidental tacks by myself with the genoa, I've decided it's time to revert to the club-footed jib on my 30' ketch. Unfortunately, I purchased her with only a roller furling genoa. This leaves me with three questions:
1) If anyone has recently measured the club jib on their Ketch and has the sail measurements handy, I'd love to know what they are.
2) Given roller gear, is it practical to actually use the gear to stow the sail or should I simply hoist and drop the jib using the jib track?
3) Are there any favorite used sail dealers? Do you think I can get away with a close fit, or am I stuck with finding an exact fit or a new sail? Is anybody interested in unloading an old club jib? I'm not picky.
Thanks,
John Nestor
s/v Heron
jwnestor@yahoo.com
CD-30 ketch club jib. Dimensions and Options?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Joe Mac Phee
Re: CD-30 ketch club jib. Dimensions and Options?
John,
My Cape Dory 30 ketch has roller furling with the working jib (and genoa). With the old hanked jib, the clew of the sail was lashed to the club jib with a short pennant. With the new roller furling jib, the sheet for the clew goes to a turning block on the after end of the club. The sheet is then led forward to another turning block at the forward end of the club and then led aft to a cleat near the cockpit. The original equipment four part tackle on the after end of the club goes to the winches on top of the companionway. The jib is normally controlled by the four part tackle. When you wish to furl the sail, the sheet on the sail can be eased from the cockpit. I have the roller furler line led along the stanchions on the starboard side, and the jib sheet led along the port side. Since the line to the sail really is a sheet and not a furling line, the blocks and lines should be sized accordingly.
The club on my boat has a topping lift on the forward side of the mast. It also has a short traveler on the cabin top just forward of the mast. The forward end of the club is mounted to a tabernacle mounted on the bowsprit with a gooseneck fitting. I mention these in case some or all have been removed by prior owner. The four part tackle starts at an eyestrap to starboard, thence to blocks on the club and traveler car, then to a turning block to port and aft to a winch on the cabintop.
According to the rigging chart for the 30 ketch, the luff of the jib is 31.0 feet, the leech is 26.0 feet and the foot is 11.25 feet and has 147 sq. ft. My boat is about 60 miles away right now, so I do not know the length of the club, but will measure on my next trip.
Happy clubing,
Joe Mac Phee
S/V Iolanthe
CD-30/K
jvmacphee@aol.com
My Cape Dory 30 ketch has roller furling with the working jib (and genoa). With the old hanked jib, the clew of the sail was lashed to the club jib with a short pennant. With the new roller furling jib, the sheet for the clew goes to a turning block on the after end of the club. The sheet is then led forward to another turning block at the forward end of the club and then led aft to a cleat near the cockpit. The original equipment four part tackle on the after end of the club goes to the winches on top of the companionway. The jib is normally controlled by the four part tackle. When you wish to furl the sail, the sheet on the sail can be eased from the cockpit. I have the roller furler line led along the stanchions on the starboard side, and the jib sheet led along the port side. Since the line to the sail really is a sheet and not a furling line, the blocks and lines should be sized accordingly.
The club on my boat has a topping lift on the forward side of the mast. It also has a short traveler on the cabin top just forward of the mast. The forward end of the club is mounted to a tabernacle mounted on the bowsprit with a gooseneck fitting. I mention these in case some or all have been removed by prior owner. The four part tackle starts at an eyestrap to starboard, thence to blocks on the club and traveler car, then to a turning block to port and aft to a winch on the cabintop.
According to the rigging chart for the 30 ketch, the luff of the jib is 31.0 feet, the leech is 26.0 feet and the foot is 11.25 feet and has 147 sq. ft. My boat is about 60 miles away right now, so I do not know the length of the club, but will measure on my next trip.
Happy clubing,
Joe Mac Phee
S/V Iolanthe
CD-30/K
jvmacphee@aol.com
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Leo MacDonald
Re: CD-30 ketch club jib - Option
Hi John,
Where is your homeport? What are your ‘normal winds’?
All below is based on Lake Ontario and New England coastal sailing.
We sold our CD30K, Heather Ann) in Sept. 2001:-(( She had come with a Storm Jib, Working Jib (both on hanks) and a ~150% Genny on a 'Plastimo' roller furler. After two seasons with the Plastimo, I could not justify being seen in public with the piece of #$%^& and purchased a Pro-Furl (a massive upgrade). Had the Working Jib cut and taped for the furler.
My big plan was to use the Working Jib from after launch until around June-ish, then shift to the 150 till September-ish and shift back to the Working Jib. Well, due to associated flaps, we didn't get in the water until early May. Heather Ann & I motored out of the YC basin area, I raised / unfurled her sails in medium air (approx. 8-12 kts - do not have a wind meter) and it seemed we were sailed nowhere very slowly!! I don't remember the exact speed (~3-4 kts), but my sense was in the same wind with the Genny she would do 5 kts. (I should have known - when I bought the boat the Broker stated the sails were 10 - 12 years old and my Sailmaker rated the Working Jib as 'Used, New Condition', essentially unused.) I returned to the dock, unbent the Working Jib, bent on the Genny and went sailing
)
Although carried on board for 'Heavy Weather' sail reduction, I never flew the Working Jib again.
The CD30K mast is ~2 foot shorter, the mast is also 12 - 14 inches further forward and the boom is a foot shorter than the CD30 double headsail sloop, locally called the CD30C (watch closely for the BLAST). And when close hauled the mizzen carries very little to no lift. Compared, you're very undercanvased.
If you do want to give the 100% a try, contact Bacon and Associates in Annapolis, MD (seller of used sails.) I purchased a 'Mizzen Staysail' from them in 'Used-New Condition' category in spring '99 and used it to transit to Onset, MA - in light air it worked like a champ, adding 1 kt to boat speed. And the price (~$300.00 w/ shipping) was great.
When we pulled an accidental tack, we would just do a 360 and proceed on, actually getting quite good at them
On cruises I tried carrying a 9-1/2 foot inflatable on the foredeck - no joy! Next, on Capt. Cathy's suggestion, we put a 6 ft Walker Bay up there - this works!! I could get to the furler / anchor and launch the Dink from the bow. All or which would have been a no-go with a club boom.
I'd recommend staying with the Genny.
Fair Winds,
Leo
'Evening Light CD33' #38
(Ex; 'Heather Ann' CD30K #57)
macdoreNOSPAM@aol.com
Where is your homeport? What are your ‘normal winds’?
All below is based on Lake Ontario and New England coastal sailing.
We sold our CD30K, Heather Ann) in Sept. 2001:-(( She had come with a Storm Jib, Working Jib (both on hanks) and a ~150% Genny on a 'Plastimo' roller furler. After two seasons with the Plastimo, I could not justify being seen in public with the piece of #$%^& and purchased a Pro-Furl (a massive upgrade). Had the Working Jib cut and taped for the furler.
My big plan was to use the Working Jib from after launch until around June-ish, then shift to the 150 till September-ish and shift back to the Working Jib. Well, due to associated flaps, we didn't get in the water until early May. Heather Ann & I motored out of the YC basin area, I raised / unfurled her sails in medium air (approx. 8-12 kts - do not have a wind meter) and it seemed we were sailed nowhere very slowly!! I don't remember the exact speed (~3-4 kts), but my sense was in the same wind with the Genny she would do 5 kts. (I should have known - when I bought the boat the Broker stated the sails were 10 - 12 years old and my Sailmaker rated the Working Jib as 'Used, New Condition', essentially unused.) I returned to the dock, unbent the Working Jib, bent on the Genny and went sailing
) Although carried on board for 'Heavy Weather' sail reduction, I never flew the Working Jib again.
The CD30K mast is ~2 foot shorter, the mast is also 12 - 14 inches further forward and the boom is a foot shorter than the CD30 double headsail sloop, locally called the CD30C (watch closely for the BLAST). And when close hauled the mizzen carries very little to no lift. Compared, you're very undercanvased.
If you do want to give the 100% a try, contact Bacon and Associates in Annapolis, MD (seller of used sails.) I purchased a 'Mizzen Staysail' from them in 'Used-New Condition' category in spring '99 and used it to transit to Onset, MA - in light air it worked like a champ, adding 1 kt to boat speed. And the price (~$300.00 w/ shipping) was great.
When we pulled an accidental tack, we would just do a 360 and proceed on, actually getting quite good at them
On cruises I tried carrying a 9-1/2 foot inflatable on the foredeck - no joy! Next, on Capt. Cathy's suggestion, we put a 6 ft Walker Bay up there - this works!! I could get to the furler / anchor and launch the Dink from the bow. All or which would have been a no-go with a club boom.
I'd recommend staying with the Genny.
Fair Winds,
Leo
'Evening Light CD33' #38
(Ex; 'Heather Ann' CD30K #57)
macdoreNOSPAM@aol.com