Manual Bilge Pump Woes

[Bill Goldsmith]

To all esteemed CDers,

My Whale Gusher 8 Mark III manual bilge pump wasn't pumping last fall so I pulled it before covering the boat and it's been sitting on the "to do" shelf this winter. I have now examined it and have determined that it needs the valve and diaphragm service kit. No big deal, only $24.99 at West Marine.

Now for the woes. I have noticed that the plastic bushing, sleeve, ferrule (or whatever it is called) that receives the handle is cracked, broken in two. You'll recognize it as the piece in the middle of the flexible thru-bulkhead diaphragm. The handle still operates the pump, but with increasingly extra play, and it won't be too long until the piece just falls out. (I believe it's been like that since I bought the boat, as I don't recall any frantic bilge pumping that could have caused the crack in the past 4 seasons).

I checked with Whale and am advised that the service kit is the only set of replacement parts available for the Gusher 8 Mark III. So the only real repair would be to find someone throwing out an old #8 and salvage that part or have it machined from aluminum or something of the sort. (This piece would seem to take alot of stress as it is the handle receiver.)

I have considered removing the Gusher 8 Mark III and replacing it with another model (say, a Whale Gusher 10, all aluminum, not plastic as was the 8). Unfortunately, the mounting holes are not identical and will require new holes and patching the old holes.

So here are the options I have considered and I wouldn't mind some focus on the best alternative.

1) As stated above, find someone with an old #8 on a shelf somewhere and salvage the plastic sleeve (which might also be old and brittle and about to break as well) or have one machined out of aluminum, and repair the pump, end of story.

2) Install a brand new manual bilge pump in the cockpit in the same location as the old one, do the new holes, patch the old holes. Mount the old Gusher 8 (with new diaphragm and valves and with jury-rigged handle apparatus) to a board and use as a spare general purpose pump.

Do people think having a replacement piece made for the old pump is throwing away good effort into an old (plastic) problem, or will such a repair get another 22 years out of the pump? In other words, is it worth the time and effort and unknown cost of having a piece made, or should I just get a new all-metal pump and relegate the old one to non-critical duty?

This may be alot of deliberation over a simple decision, but isn't that what the off-season is for?

Thanks,

Bill Goldsmith
CD27#173
Second Chance



goldy@bestweb.net

[john doyle]

To all esteemed CDers,

My Whale Gusher 8 Mark III manual bilge pump wasn't pumping last fall so I pulled it before covering the boat and it's been sitting on the "to do" shelf this winter. I have now examined it and have determined that it needs the valve and diaphragm service kit. No big deal, only $24.99 at West Marine.

Now for the woes. I have noticed that the plastic bushing, sleeve, ferrule (or whatever it is called) that receives the handle is cracked, broken in two. You'll recognize it as the piece in the middle of the flexible thru-bulkhead diaphragm. The handle still operates the pump, but with increasingly extra play, and it won't be too long until the piece just falls out. (I believe it's been like that since I bought the boat, as I don't recall any frantic bilge pumping that could have caused the crack in the past 4 seasons).

I checked with Whale and am advised that the service kit is the only set of replacement parts available for the Gusher 8 Mark III. So the only real repair would be to find someone throwing out an old #8 and salvage that part or have it machined from aluminum or something of the sort. (This piece would seem to take alot of stress as it is the handle receiver.)

I have considered removing the Gusher 8 Mark III and replacing it with another model (say, a Whale Gusher 10, all aluminum, not plastic as was the 8). Unfortunately, the mounting holes are not identical and will require new holes and patching the old holes.

So here are the options I have considered and I wouldn't mind some focus on the best alternative.

1) As stated above, find someone with an old #8 on a shelf somewhere and salvage the plastic sleeve (which might also be old and brittle and about to break as well) or have one machined out of aluminum, and repair the pump, end of story.

2) Install a brand new manual bilge pump in the cockpit in the same location as the old one, do the new holes, patch the old holes. Mount the old Gusher 8 (with new diaphragm and valves and with jury-rigged handle apparatus) to a board and use as a spare general purpose pump.

Do people think having a replacement piece made for the old pump is throwing away good effort into an old (plastic) problem, or will such a repair get another 22 years out of the pump? In other words, is it worth the time and effort and unknown cost of having a piece made, or should I just get a new all-metal pump and relegate the old one to non-critical duty?

This may be alot of deliberation over a simple decision, but isn't that what the off-season is for?

Thanks,

Bill Goldsmith
CD27#173
Second Chance

I would opt for a new pump. I am facing the same decision. I don't believe the plastic pumps are near as good as the aluminum ones.
John CD31 #18
Bonnie Blue



redzeplin@yahoo.com

[Clay Stalker]

To all esteemed CDers,

My Whale Gusher 8 Mark III manual bilge pump wasn't pumping last fall so I pulled it before covering the boat and it's been sitting on the "to do" shelf this winter. I have now examined it and have determined that it needs the valve and diaphragm service kit. No big deal, only $24.99 at West Marine.

Now for the woes. I have noticed that the plastic bushing, sleeve, ferrule (or whatever it is called) that receives the handle is cracked, broken in two. You'll recognize it as the piece in the middle of the flexible thru-bulkhead diaphragm. The handle still operates the pump, but with increasingly extra play, and it won't be too long until the piece just falls out. (I believe it's been like that since I bought the boat, as I don't recall any frantic bilge pumping that could have caused the crack in the past 4 seasons).

I checked with Whale and am advised that the service kit is the only set of replacement parts available for the Gusher 8 Mark III. So the only real repair would be to find someone throwing out an old #8 and salvage that part or have it machined from aluminum or something of the sort. (This piece would seem to take alot of stress as it is the handle receiver.)

I have considered removing the Gusher 8 Mark III and replacing it with another model (say, a Whale Gusher 10, all aluminum, not plastic as was the 8). Unfortunately, the mounting holes are not identical and will require new holes and patching the old holes.

So here are the options I have considered and I wouldn't mind some focus on the best alternative.

1) As stated above, find someone with an old #8 on a shelf somewhere and salvage the plastic sleeve (which might also be old and brittle and about to break as well) or have one machined out of aluminum, and repair the pump, end of story.

2) Install a brand new manual bilge pump in the cockpit in the same location as the old one, do the new holes, patch the old holes. Mount the old Gusher 8 (with new diaphragm and valves and with jury-rigged handle apparatus) to a board and use as a spare general purpose pump.

Do people think having a replacement piece made for the old pump is throwing away good effort into an old (plastic) problem, or will such a repair get another 22 years out of the pump? In other words, is it worth the time and effort and unknown cost of having a piece made, or should I just get a new all-metal pump and relegate the old one to non-critical duty?

This may be alot of deliberation over a simple decision, but isn't that what the off-season is for?

Thanks,

Bill Goldsmith
CD27#173
Second Chance

Bill:

My diaphram on my Whale 8 went south last fall as well...I bought the kit and plan to install it in the spring...I think if anything else was not working I would junk it and spring for a new, better pump.....when you need to empty that darn bilge, I want it to work fast and well..FWIW

Clay Stalker



cstalker@cheshire.net

[len]

bill

i vote for a new pump

re saving the old one to be an emergency pump, i have a gusher 30 pump that i set up for offshore work clamped into the opening to the bilge, hoses in place etc. - it is in the way of course but gives peace of mind

len



md.frel@nwh.org

[Mystic Marine]

Bill:

We could machine the part from a block of aluminum, but I can't picture it and the diagram I have for the Gusher 8 shows a non-removeable handle affixed to the Operating Lever part (the diagram is not for the through-bulkhead model). In any event, it seems that the only high-precision parts are the holes that receive the fulcrum pins - one at the center of the pump and one at the edge - and the hole for the handle.

If you can send the part or a drawing of the part (maybe Whale has one?) I can give you a quote.

If they can tell you what kind of plastic it is, I could recommend an adhesive. No, I'm not kidding - there are some amazing products out there now.

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI



mail@mysticmarine.net

[Bill Goldsmith]

Thanks Duncan,

I will inspect it a little closer tonight. The through bulkhead model has a removeable handle. It inserts into the though-bulkhead fitting which is a flexible diaphragm sourrounding a hard plastic chamfered bushing (the one that is broken) to accept the handle. I cannot picture in my head right now the connection to the actual pump, i.e. whether the handle goes into something more substantial or relies on that piece to transfer the effort. I'll pull it apart tonight and inspect it. It would be nice to restore this one even if I go with a new primary manual pump.

Bill

Bill:

We could machine the part from a block of aluminum, but I can't picture it and the diagram I have for the Gusher 8 shows a non-removeable handle affixed to the Operating Lever part (the diagram is not for the through-bulkhead model). In any event, it seems that the only high-precision parts are the holes that receive the fulcrum pins - one at the center of the pump and one at the edge - and the hole for the handle.

If you can send the part or a drawing of the part (maybe Whale has one?) I can give you a quote.

If they can tell you what kind of plastic it is, I could recommend an adhesive. No, I'm not kidding - there are some amazing products out there now.

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI

goldy@bestweb.net

[Mark Yashinsky]

Would imagine there is a pivot point right behind the diaphragm that covers the bulkhead hole. The diaphragm allows the piece to move a little during use. From the pivot point, would imagine the the fitting continues on till the rod from the pump diaphragm attaches to the end. Imagine the handle fitting on a bottle jack, just reverse the pivot and pump ends. Things might have fractured from the travel limits being forced (slaming into the endlimits).

[Bill Goldsmith]

Duncan,

I examined tho old Whale Gusher 8 Mark III and determined that the cracked piece is actually part of the actuator arm that accepts the handle and operates the diaphragm. It appears someone tried to operate the pump at some point without putting the handle in all the way and cracked a large chip out of the end of the piece. At first it looked like a separate bushing, but once I removed the thru-bulkhead diaphragm it was obvious that it is part of the main piece. Someone also tried to reattach it with a squirt of silicone!

I doubt it would make economic sense to machine an entire new actuator arm. At this point I think I'll go with the new all-metal pump, and keep this pump as a spare by mounting it to a board with some coiled hoses. It will work if I epoxy the cracked piece back on and put a 1.5 in hose clamp around the handle receptacle, and relegate it to non-critical duty. Thanks for your suggestion and I'll keep your capabilities in mind for other creative solutions!!
Bill

Bill:

We could machine the part from a block of aluminum, but I can't picture it and the diagram I have for the Gusher 8 shows a non-removeable handle affixed to the Operating Lever part (the diagram is not for the through-bulkhead model). In any event, it seems that the only high-precision parts are the holes that receive the fulcrum pins - one at the center of the pump and one at the edge - and the hole for the handle.

If you can send the part or a drawing of the part (maybe Whale has one?) I can give you a quote.

If they can tell you what kind of plastic it is, I could recommend an adhesive. No, I'm not kidding - there are some amazing products out there now.

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI

goldy@bestweb.net