This bulletin board, hosted by the CDSOA, Inc., is the on-line meeting place for all Cape Dory owners and groups. We welcome everyone's questions, answers and comments about Cape Dory sailboat
I subscribe to belief that Bronze is the superior mental to use an saltwater GRP and wood sailboats, specifically in stagnate underwater applications. SS is susceptible to 'chloride crevice' and 'chloride pitting' corrosion. Bronze (though current availability is 'softer') can stay underwater without corroding until long after we’re gone. Read some back posts and talk with Bristol Bronze
That said the ‘Heather Ann’ had a Shaft Seal, Cutlass Bearing, Stern Tube and Shaft fiasco late spring 2001. If I had any hope of launching, doing Sea Trials, participating in the NE Fleet summer sail events, etc., etc., I would have to, and I did, install a 'AQ22' stainless shaft. (Along with a new cutlass, PSS dripless seal and reglassed shaft log.)
If I have the time a BRONZE shaft will be installed J (Read; you have to order ahead of time - not all shops carry bronze)
Fair Winds,
Leo
‘Evening Light’
Dear Leo,
You are exactly right. Bronze is a far superior material than stainless steel for use under water. I do not have an engine or propeller shaft in my boat (the boat that is on home page of my web site) but my rudder post is 1 1/4" Dia. Bronze, it is still original, it works fine and I can't see any signs of deterioration. My boat is hull # 858 from Herreshoff Mfg. Co. built in September of 1920. I really shouldn't have a problem with it yet. After all, it's only eighty-one years old.
We do prop shafts all the time at Bristol Bronze. We are in the process of doing a 7/8" Dia. shaft that is 42" long for an Alberg 37. The price for that shaft, including two nuts, is $125.00 plus freight.
If you need a new propeller shaft over the Winter just let me know.
Roger W.
If I had a bronze shaft and a bronze prop, why would I need a Zinc anode on my shaft? Could I simply get out of the zinc habit? Does anyone have any good answer to this?
Thanks for reply.
Will Parker
"Jambalaya"
CD 30
Bristol Bronze wrote:
Leo MacDonald wrote: CD'ers,
I subscribe to belief that Bronze is the superior mental to use an saltwater GRP and wood sailboats, specifically in stagnate underwater applications. SS is susceptible to 'chloride crevice' and 'chloride pitting' corrosion. Bronze (though current availability is 'softer') can stay underwater without corroding until long after we’re gone. Read some back posts and talk with Bristol Bronze
That said the ‘Heather Ann’ had a Shaft Seal, Cutlass Bearing, Stern Tube and Shaft fiasco late spring 2001. If I had any hope of launching, doing Sea Trials, participating in the NE Fleet summer sail events, etc., etc., I would have to, and I did, install a 'AQ22' stainless shaft. (Along with a new cutlass, PSS dripless seal and reglassed shaft log.)
If I have the time a BRONZE shaft will be installed J (Read; you have to order ahead of time - not all shops carry bronze)
Fair Winds,
Leo
‘Evening Light’
Dear Leo,
You are exactly right. Bronze is a far superior material than stainless steel for use under water. I do not have an engine or propeller shaft in my boat (the boat that is on home page of my web site) but my rudder post is 1 1/4" Dia. Bronze, it is still original, it works fine and I can't see any signs of deterioration. My boat is hull # 858 from Herreshoff Mfg. Co. built in September of 1920. I really shouldn't have a problem with it yet. After all, it's only eighty-one years old.
We do prop shafts all the time at Bristol Bronze. We are in the process of doing a 7/8" Dia. shaft that is 42" long for an Alberg 37. The price for that shaft, including two nuts, is $125.00 plus freight.
If you need a new propeller shaft over the Winter just let me know.
Will Parker wrote:
Roger W.
If I had a bronze shaft and a bronze prop, why would I need a Zinc anode on my shaft? Could I simply get out of the zinc habit? Does anyone have any good answer to this?
Thanks for reply.
Will Parker
"Jambalaya"
CD 30
Dear Will,
There are dozens of different alloys of "Bronze". Even if all the metal parts and fittings on your boat were "Bronze" it is very unlikely that they would all be the same alloy of Bronze. Electrons will flow from the least noble metal to the most nobel metal. If you will provide me with your mailing address I will send you a nobility table of the various metals used on boats.
Even if all the metal parts of your boat were exactly the same a zinc would still be a good idea. Think of it as an insurance policy and an inexpensive one at that. You can never tell when the unthinking or unknowing skipper in the next slip to you will let his electrical cord dip into the water as it runs from the dock to his boat. The plastic covering on most cords will "leak" electricity which can cause deterioration of the under water fittings on your boat. It is the least noble metals that will go away first. Since zinc is just about at the bottom of the scale it becomes sacrificial. This is also one of the many reasons why you should never use "Brass" (an alloy of copper, zinc and usually lead) on your boat. Bronze, which is an alloy of copper and tin works fine.
If you have any questions I can be reached at 401-625-5224.
Roger W.
Bristol Bronze
Will Parker wrote:
Bristol Bronze wrote:
Leo MacDonald wrote: CD'ers,
I subscribe to belief that Bronze is the superior mental to use an saltwater GRP and wood sailboats, specifically in stagnate underwater applications. SS is susceptible to 'chloride crevice' and 'chloride pitting' corrosion. Bronze (though current availability is 'softer') can stay underwater without corroding until long after we’re gone. Read some back posts and talk with Bristol Bronze
That said the ‘Heather Ann’ had a Shaft Seal, Cutlass Bearing, Stern Tube and Shaft fiasco late spring 2001. If I had any hope of launching, doing Sea Trials, participating in the NE Fleet summer sail events, etc., etc., I would have to, and I did, install a 'AQ22' stainless shaft. (Along with a new cutlass, PSS dripless seal and reglassed shaft log.)
If I have the time a BRONZE shaft will be installed J (Read; you have to order ahead of time - not all shops carry bronze)
Fair Winds,
Leo
‘Evening Light’
Dear Leo,
You are exactly right. Bronze is a far superior material than stainless steel for use under water. I do not have an engine or propeller shaft in my boat (the boat that is on home page of my web site) but my rudder post is 1 1/4" Dia. Bronze, it is still original, it works fine and I can't see any signs of deterioration. My boat is hull # 858 from Herreshoff Mfg. Co. built in September of 1920. I really shouldn't have a problem with it yet. After all, it's only eighty-one years old.
We do prop shafts all the time at Bristol Bronze. We are in the process of doing a 7/8" Dia. shaft that is 42" long for an Alberg 37. The price for that shaft, including two nuts, is $125.00 plus freight.
If you need a new propeller shaft over the Winter just let me know.
