Mounting Deck Hardware

[Richard Formica]

Hi,
I have a question about mounting deck hardware. Previous posts have said that when the hole goes though the balsa core it should be made larger than needed. Then filled with epoxy. Once set, drill the appropriate size hole through the epoxy. The question is can Marinetex be substituted for epoxy? Its consistency is easier to work with and it doesn't drip as much.
Thanks,
rich



richard.formica@yale.edu

[Serge Zimberoff]

Don't know about Marinetex, but the after drilling out the oversized hole, you should put into your drill chuck something like a nail with a 90 degree bend in it. The leg of the bend can be used to clean out some of the balsa around the hole, which gives the epoxy purchase into the space between the fiberglass laminates.
Serge



serge@srtrop.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

Rich,

Marine-tex IS epoxy. The biggest drawback to using it for this purpose is that it is an epoxy putty. When reinforcing cored areas for deck hardware you'll want to use a more liquid mixture, and fill a larger void than you could fill with putty.

As Serge points out, for each mounting hole you'll want to remove core from an area larger than the initial hole you've drilled. To do this, drill a small hole and use a bent nail or an allen hex key chucked in a drill and pulverize the core in the radius of the chucked item. Use a shop vac to extricate all the balsa. Then you'll want to fill the entire void with a liquid, syrupy epoxy mix. This is why marine tex won't work. As a putty, it will be impossible to get it into all the voided space, through a small hole. The idea of pouring epoxy into a larger void is to (1) seal off the balsa from the hole (the syrupy epoxy gets into all the nooks and crannies) and (2) to provide a large area of hardened epoxy core to support the deck hardware. Think of it like you're making a mini "hockey puck" of epoxy between the fiberglass skins. When dry, you then drill the hole you need for the hardware, and the hole is completely isolated from the balsa, and is well supported as well.

I highly recommend pamphlets written by the Gougeon Brothers of Bay City, Michigan. They cost about 3 bucks at West Marine or Boat/US and give more practical technical advice, pictures and procedures than most 30 dollar books on these subjects. Of course, the pamphlets are geared to the Gougeon Bros. West System products. There are other systems out there also. I have only used the West System and can say that while messy and a bit technical, an amateur can get great results.

Best of luck,

Bill Goldsmith
CD27#173
Second Chance

Hi,
I have a question about mounting deck hardware. Previous posts have said that when the hole goes though the balsa core it should be made larger than needed. Then filled with epoxy. Once set, drill the appropriate size hole through the epoxy. The question is can Marinetex be substituted for epoxy? Its consistency is easier to work with and it doesn't drip as much.
Thanks,
rich

goldy@bestweb.net

[JimL]

Here's a way to use MarineTex putty.

1. Drill the hole a lttle larger than you need, so you can clean out core in the area (you'll be using a backing plate underneath, when finished). Duct tape the underside of the deck and fill the hole with MarineTex. Now use a little warm air from your wife's hair drier. The MarineTex will flow easily. Fill as necessary.

2. To stop the flow, and regain putty consistency, place wax paper over the hole and top with a freezer bag of ice. In a few minutes the MarineTex will be putty again. This step is the only way to keep bubbles from coming up through the MarineTex after the next step. If you don't cool it, you'll have a saggy surface after cure.

3. Pull off the wax paper and discard (some putty goes with it). Clean up around the hole with acetone, then add MarineTex to bring the fill slightly above level (very slight, please). Cover with a fresh piece of wax paper, smooth with a wooden stir stick, and let cure with the wax paper in place. You can tape down the edges of the paper with masking tape, and use your finger to "push" overflow MarineTex back into the center.

4. After cure, pull off the wax paper, and touch up lightly with sandpaper to get off any paper debris. Your surface will be flat, smooth, and fair....perfect for mounting hardware. Redrill the hole to correct size for your bolt(s).

If you get MarineTex on your wife's hair drier, she gets a NEW, and MUCH BETTER hair drier, just before you TAKE HER OUT TO DINNER!



leinfam@earthlink.net

[John R.]

Hi,
I have a question about mounting deck hardware. Previous posts have said that when the hole goes though the balsa core it should be made larger than needed. Then filled with epoxy. Once set, drill the appropriate size hole through the epoxy. The question is can Marinetex be substituted for epoxy? Its consistency is easier to work with and it doesn't drip as much.
Thanks,
rich

You've received a number of posts about removing core and filling voids with epoxy. This is an ideal way of mounting deck hardware to limit the possibility of water seepage past bedding compound or caulk and making it's way into the balsa or foam core.

There is a flip side to the issue. Every boat manufacturer I ever worked for never went to this trouble. All deck hardware from winches and windlasses to cleats and travellers were always caulked with polysulfide. Never was core removed and an epoxy casing created. The cost to benefit ratio would be inconceivable. I never did any tests to determine if it is necessary or not over the long haul to create casings. Let's just say polysulfide alone did a good job of preventing warranty claims.

The casing concept is great but is it worth the trouble? Some will say yes, some will say no. I've mounted hardware with an epoxy cased hole and also mounted hardware without doing it. Neither have ever leaked. The real key is how you caulk or bed the hardware and how often you redo it. It is equally important to choose the proper caulking compound and selecting quality caulk in the first place.

I'm not saying you should or shouldn't go the casing route, that's for you to decide. I'm just pointing out there are few if any production boats out there that have deck hardware mounted in that fashion.

[Mark Yashinsky]

Rich, what were the items that you mounted w/o "casing"??? Would think there is more than "just" preventing leaks, if you are talking about something that could be highly loaded (winch, cleat, etc). You CAN crush balsa cored fiberglass, even if correctly backed. Might not happen right away, but it can happen over time.

[Bill Goldsmith]

Great advice--I was unaware that Marine-tex could be made more syrupy and less putty-like by heating it! Ya learn sumpin' new every day!

Here's a way to use MarineTex putty.

1. Drill the hole a lttle larger than you need, so you can clean out core in the area (you'll be using a backing plate underneath, when finished). Duct tape the underside of the deck and fill the hole with MarineTex. Now use a little warm air from your wife's hair drier. The MarineTex will flow easily. Fill as necessary.

2. To stop the flow, and regain putty consistency, place wax paper over the hole and top with a freezer bag of ice. In a few minutes the MarineTex will be putty again. This step is the only way to keep bubbles from coming up through the MarineTex after the next step. If you don't cool it, you'll have a saggy surface after cure.

3. Pull off the wax paper and discard (some putty goes with it). Clean up around the hole with acetone, then add MarineTex to bring the fill slightly above level (very slight, please). Cover with a fresh piece of wax paper, smooth with a wooden stir stick, and let cure with the wax paper in place. You can tape down the edges of the paper with masking tape, and use your finger to "push" overflow MarineTex back into the center.

4. After cure, pull off the wax paper, and touch up lightly with sandpaper to get off any paper debris. Your surface will be flat, smooth, and fair....perfect for mounting hardware. Redrill the hole to correct size for your bolt(s).

If you get MarineTex on your wife's hair drier, she gets a NEW, and MUCH BETTER hair drier, just before you TAKE HER OUT TO DINNER!

goldy@bestweb.net

[Richard Formica]

First, thanks for all of the thoughtful responses. I think what I like best about this board is that one can get a variety of opinions and ideas before starting a project.

My winter project is to install a new line control traveler system. I find moving the stops on my current traveler arduous and I hate easing the main and then struggling to pull the traveler to windard. Initially I bought a shaeffer traveler and blocks thinking I could fit them to the current traveler but not good, so I am buying the track and mounts.

thanks again.
rich

Hi,
I have a question about mounting deck hardware. Previous posts have said that when the hole goes though the balsa core it should be made larger than needed. Then filled with epoxy. Once set, drill the appropriate size hole through the epoxy. The question is can Marinetex be substituted for epoxy? Its consistency is easier to work with and it doesn't drip as much.
Thanks,
rich

[Jerry Axler]

First, thanks for all of the thoughtful responses. I think what I like best about this board is that one can get a variety of opinions and ideas before starting a project.

My winter project is to install a new line control traveler system. I find moving the stops on my current traveler arduous and I hate easing the main and then struggling to pull the traveler to windard. Initially I bought a shaeffer traveler and blocks thinking I could fit them to the current traveler but not good, so I am buying the track and mounts.

thanks again.
rich

Hi,
I have a question about mounting deck hardware. Previous posts have said that when the hole goes though the balsa core it should be made larger than needed. Then filled with epoxy. Once set, drill the appropriate size hole through the epoxy. The question is can Marinetex be substituted for epoxy? Its consistency is easier to work with and it doesn't drip as much.
Thanks,
rich

I installed a Harken windward sheeting traveler several years ago and I am really pleased with the system. The ease of adjusting the traveler more than makes up for the aggravation of installing new track.

Jerry Axler
Shana CD36



cutter36@erols.com