Doors/drawers needed

[Joe Sankey]

Over the winter I plan to repair some damage from rot to a piece of plywood beneath the companionway hatch, and to create a stove and storage cabinet where the Hillerange used to be on our 30. I was simply wondering if anyone had, or knew where to get, doors or drawer fronts with the same molding as original. AFI makes a louvered door that would likely be okay, but I'd like any of my efforts to be consistent with the original look. Thanks.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance



sankey@gulftel.com

[Dave Potts]

I would also be interested in any info on sources for doors/drawers components compatible with existing interior appearance. The original owner of my CD30C had removed both doors to the head (replacing them with shower curtains) as well as the sink/cabinet across from the head (replacing it with a teak slab bench on which to sit while feeding a hose from a sun shower, lashed on deck to the mast, through the port into this converted shower area). I am contemplating construction of a chest of drawers in place of the teak slab bench as well as replacing at least the door from the main salon to the head.

Let me know if you get any good leads.

Thanks,

Dave Potts
<a href=http://home.maine.rr.com/andronikos/index.html>1982 CD30C Andronikos</a>



david.potts@fairchildsemi.com

[John R.]

The doors are pretty straight forward simple designs. Just .5" teak veneered plywood with routed trim moldings and a glued in finger pull.

You can take a profile pattern of your existing molding and look through a woodworkers catalog or website for a matching sculpted router bit profile, or go to Sears, Home depot etc.,. Get some teak stock and run the bit to achieve the matching molding. You will also need a .5" rabbeting bit to create the recess on the back side of the molding to accept the door panel and to make the overhang lip on the back edge.

If you don't want to do this yourself take the bit and teak stock to a cabinet maker and have them run the material for you. They will already have a rabbet bit so don't buy one. Cut your teak ply to size, mitre your molding corners (use a power mitre saw with at least 48 carbide teeth or use a hollow ground blade, these will give you a satin smooth cut) and then glue it all together. (Use waterproof glue like Resourcinol, epoxy or polyurethane) Use a frame or corner jig to make sure everything is square.

Over the winter I plan to repair some damage from rot to a piece of plywood beneath the companionway hatch, and to create a stove and storage cabinet where the Hillerange used to be on our 30. I was simply wondering if anyone had, or knew where to get, doors or drawer fronts with the same molding as original. AFI makes a louvered door that would likely be okay, but I'd like any of my efforts to be consistent with the original look. Thanks.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance

[Mystic Marine]

Joe:

We have replicated all of the interior woodwork for the Typhoon, and would be happy to tackle your project as well - we can custom build the entire cabinet, or just mill some parts (or doors).

We found that, on the Ty and early CD27, the plywood used in the door panels is a custom lay-up so that you don't see the laminations when the edge is shaped - there is a teak veneer at the face, in the middle (where the rabbet is) and on the back, and the rest is two thick (lumber-core) layers. True authenticity would be, as we say in the trade, stupid expensive, but the results are very good with standard materials.

The Millwork shop is busy for the next few weeks, but we are typically a little slow in January and we could assemble a run for all those who are interested.

Duncan Maio
Mystic Marine



mail@mysticmarine.net

[Jeff Funston]

And I like the summer cruise tour!

Dave Potts
<a href=http://home.maine.rr.com/andronikos/index.html>1982 CD30C Andronikos</a>

jefff@pinn.net

[Joe Sankey]

Thanks for the ideas and offers to help. Now to figure out exactly how to make the space functional, and therefore what size openings I'll need. Be in touch.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance

Joe:

We have replicated all of the interior woodwork for the Typhoon, and would be happy to tackle your project as well - we can custom build the entire cabinet, or just mill some parts (or doors).

We found that, on the Ty and early CD27, the plywood used in the door panels is a custom lay-up so that you don't see the laminations when the edge is shaped - there is a teak veneer at the face, in the middle (where the rabbet is) and on the back, and the rest is two thick (lumber-core) layers. True authenticity would be, as we say in the trade, stupid expensive, but the results are very good with standard materials.

The Millwork shop is busy for the next few weeks, but we are typically a little slow in January and we could assemble a run for all those who are interested.

Duncan Maio
Mystic Marine

sankey@gulftel.com

[matt cawthorne]

I replaced the drawers in the v-berth of my 36 and have the old ones.
If you think you can use them or at least use the faces you are welcome to them.

Matt



mcawthor@bellatlantic.net

[Dave Potts]

Thanks! The 2001 Summer Cruise log is a work in progress. I still have to add write-ups for about half the pictures and charts and I'm working on linking in tide and weather charts for each day (although I'm pushing my disk space limits, so we'll see). My wife has repeatedly informed me that I've spent way more time creating the web pages than I did on the cruise itself but with 175 days until Spring launch, I figure I've got plenty of more time to work on in it in the coming months!

Dave Potts
<a href=http://home.maine.rr.com/andronikos/index.html>1982 CD30C Andronikos</a>



david.potts@fairchildsemi.com