fasteners that were used to secure an old dodger that use to be on the boat. I had to drill out the rivets to remove the fasteners,,,now I need to know what is best to fill the holes. They are about an 1/16 - 1/8 inch deep. Should I use something like Formula 27 ,or mix up some West System stuff,,,or something else? Something I can sand and gelcoat afterwards.
Thanks
Larry Austin
CD30 MKII
LAYLA
laustin@us.ibm.com
I removed some old ....
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: I removed some old ....
how about marine-tex - quick, easy, durable.
Larry Austin wrote: fasteners that were used to secure an old dodger that use to be on the boat. I had to drill out the rivets to remove the fasteners,,,now I need to know what is best to fill the holes. They are about an 1/16 - 1/8 inch deep. Should I use something like Formula 27 ,or mix up some West System stuff,,,or something else? Something I can sand and gelcoat afterwards.
Thanks
Larry Austin
CD30 MKII
LAYLA
A trick for Marine Tex, or whatever
I had to fill a lot of holes, and patch some corners with chips broken out. When you prepare your filler, try applying less than you think you'll need, then lay a piece of wax paper over it and start flat smoothing with a wooden stir stick. If there is still a hollow, or a bubble shows, pull off the wax paper (throw that piece away) and add a little more filler. Do the same thing with a new piece of wax paper. Now tape the wax paper down with wide masking tape and let it set (completely cover the wax paper). If you have a dimple, or crease, in the wax paper, tape one edge, gently pull the other while massaging the crease with your finger. It will pull overflow material back in place. Your finish will require VERY little shaping or sanding to look great.
Keep in mind that epoxy yellows in UV, so you might want to mix up polyester filler and dye it to match (you can dye your MarineTex, before adding the catalyst...I did that on my non-skid repairs). Use the wax paper to insure complete cure. I've found a touch up paint (lacquer) available at the auto parts store that is a very close match for our white. The paint is Plasti-Kote "Car Color", FM8141 (which is a Ford color). This is a true lacquer, so an area can be masked, then the edges color wetsanded with 1000-1500 grit papaer to get a good blend. The lacquer will polish to match shine. Hint: Warm these little cans in hot tapwater for a few minutes. They spray better and don't spit drops.
leinfam@earthlink.net
Keep in mind that epoxy yellows in UV, so you might want to mix up polyester filler and dye it to match (you can dye your MarineTex, before adding the catalyst...I did that on my non-skid repairs). Use the wax paper to insure complete cure. I've found a touch up paint (lacquer) available at the auto parts store that is a very close match for our white. The paint is Plasti-Kote "Car Color", FM8141 (which is a Ford color). This is a true lacquer, so an area can be masked, then the edges color wetsanded with 1000-1500 grit papaer to get a good blend. The lacquer will polish to match shine. Hint: Warm these little cans in hot tapwater for a few minutes. They spray better and don't spit drops.
leinfam@earthlink.net
Thanks to both of you ....
for all the good info. I went down to West today and got some of that stuff,,, now to track down some of that Ford white rattle can paint!
Thanks again
Larry Austin
CD30 MKII
LAYLA
laustin@us.ibm.com
Thanks again
Larry Austin
CD30 MKII
LAYLA
laustin@us.ibm.com