I recently bought a 1980 TY weekender and would like to spruce it up. It's a really solid boat but I think it could use a fresh coat of gel coat from the boot stripe up. Has anyone ever tackled a job like this and if so, how difficult is it? What parts could I do and what parts should I leave to a pro? Thanks for your response...Bill Omaha, NE.
walawson@qwest.net
Gel coat
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dave
Re: Gel coat
Well first I would try and restore the original gel coat. My CD also needed work to because it was looking dull. I was told to use "On Off" whick is a very stong hull cleaner. It does not harm gel coat and leaves it as white as new. What you then need is a good buffer and put a nice shine on it using a good quality boat wax. I think this will give you the look that you are looking for without spend a ton of money. Just look at the warnings and recomendations on the On/Off before you use it. Oh, and stand down wind of the stuff!!!!!
Dave
CD 25' R&R
ddsailor25@ureach.com
Dave
CD 25' R&R
Bill Lawson wrote: I recently bought a 1980 TY weekender and would like to spruce it up. It's a really solid boat but I think it could use a fresh coat of gel coat from the boot stripe up. Has anyone ever tackled a job like this and if so, how difficult is it? What parts could I do and what parts should I leave to a pro? Thanks for your response...Bill Omaha, NE.
ddsailor25@ureach.com
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Glen
Re: Gel coat
Bill:
I agree with Dave. Any marks that buffing will not remove may need light sanding with #400 and then 600 grit wet/dry (use it wet) sandpaper. Then rebuff the sanded area. Most Cape Dory's have thick gelcoat and this should not be a problem. The key word here is LIGHT.
Gelcoat is porse and the more you buff/sand it, the more porosity you expose. If it is a new shine you are looking for, it will cost less to paint the boat then it will to regelcoat it. Painting is quicker, less work, better resualts and longer lasting.
Good luck
Glen
glen@hobbymarine.com
I agree with Dave. Any marks that buffing will not remove may need light sanding with #400 and then 600 grit wet/dry (use it wet) sandpaper. Then rebuff the sanded area. Most Cape Dory's have thick gelcoat and this should not be a problem. The key word here is LIGHT.
Gelcoat is porse and the more you buff/sand it, the more porosity you expose. If it is a new shine you are looking for, it will cost less to paint the boat then it will to regelcoat it. Painting is quicker, less work, better resualts and longer lasting.
Good luck
Glen
glen@hobbymarine.com
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Ben Thomas
Re: Gel coat
Bill,
I just finished the topsides of my cd 30, the strip at the toerail under the lifelines all the way around, the cabin top,forward and sides. Over the years previous owners had not paid close attention to masking the teak applying cetol, splash marks, spots and slops all over the place if one looked closely. I tried the cleaners, buffed with rubbing compound all to no avail, finally after much deliberation if I wanted it even close to bristol condition and deal with what I thought of as abuse and negligence, was to sand the gelcoat.
I started with a great deal of trepidation using a wet/dry 800 grit paper with a small $30.00 orbital sander, small 1/8" throw. ( 4 sheets of paper from 1 8x10) You dont want to bite in too aggresively especially at the beginning with the fear of blowing through the gel-coat anxiety factor. I then moved up to 1000 grit paper, here the confidence level rose. the marks, small scratchs, old cetol were now gone. Next was the 1200 grit paper, last with the paper was the 2000 grit the surface was now looking like a mirror and it was looking well worth the effort. I finished off with a good buffing/ rubbing compound then rounded up with wax and buff.
The next time the boat is hauled I will go over the hull in the same manner. I have to say (with some modesty) that the old girl still turns heads. the pride and passion of a Cape Dory owner.
Good luck, Ben
bt@benthomaslandscapers.com
I just finished the topsides of my cd 30, the strip at the toerail under the lifelines all the way around, the cabin top,forward and sides. Over the years previous owners had not paid close attention to masking the teak applying cetol, splash marks, spots and slops all over the place if one looked closely. I tried the cleaners, buffed with rubbing compound all to no avail, finally after much deliberation if I wanted it even close to bristol condition and deal with what I thought of as abuse and negligence, was to sand the gelcoat.
I started with a great deal of trepidation using a wet/dry 800 grit paper with a small $30.00 orbital sander, small 1/8" throw. ( 4 sheets of paper from 1 8x10) You dont want to bite in too aggresively especially at the beginning with the fear of blowing through the gel-coat anxiety factor. I then moved up to 1000 grit paper, here the confidence level rose. the marks, small scratchs, old cetol were now gone. Next was the 1200 grit paper, last with the paper was the 2000 grit the surface was now looking like a mirror and it was looking well worth the effort. I finished off with a good buffing/ rubbing compound then rounded up with wax and buff.
The next time the boat is hauled I will go over the hull in the same manner. I have to say (with some modesty) that the old girl still turns heads. the pride and passion of a Cape Dory owner.
Good luck, Ben
bt@benthomaslandscapers.com
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Boyd
Re: Gel coat
I recently paid a guy at the boat yard to buff from the rub rail down the gelcoat on Tern. $200.00 and I didnt have to sweat at all. Looks great. He used a buffer with 3m fiberglass restorer. Took the old faded gelcoat and made it look new. Just a wax from time to time. I have left the topsides purposly as is.. just a cleaning. They are slippery enough being dull. I would never wax topsides personally.
Boyd
Tern30@aol.com
Boyd
Bill Lawson wrote: I recently bought a 1980 TY weekender and would like to spruce it up. It's a really solid boat but I think it could use a fresh coat of gel coat from the boot stripe up. Has anyone ever tackled a job like this and if so, how difficult is it? What parts could I do and what parts should I leave to a pro? Thanks for your response...Bill Omaha, NE.
Tern30@aol.com