I am interested in any advise re; replacement of wiring from circuit breaker to the base of the mast. Routing, method of pulling new wire, where to access, etc. Also,what is the best way to permanently wire power to an autopilot (tiller) or gps? There is one spare circuit which is used for spotlight, etc.
fcrumb1@aol.com
Wiring replacement for mast lights-CD25D
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Bill
Re: Wiring replacement for mast lights-CD25D
Hello Frank
I just completed both of these task.
Snaking the wire to the base of the mast is a chore of luck but if you boat is like mine it can be done. I used a very stiff piece of wire a friend had and exited the breaker compartment in the upper outboard corner, followed the attachment points of the overhead hand rail and then finally exited at that base of the mast. I had to work the wire all the way to the bulkhead at the head and then back to the mast exit. It got very crowded (with wire & coax) at the mast base (I was adding new wire for an anchor light, not replacing the old wiring) so I cut a "donut" to fit the plywood cover thus increasing the room for the additional wires. I ran a messanger line first and then the wires. It was tight in places (the wire would snag), but Patience (sp) is the word here.
Re: Tiller pilot, I used the spare circuit and mounted a three way switch (on/off/on) because I also use that spare for the new anchor light. I had to replace the breaker as it was rated at 10 amps and the AP requires 12. I snaked the wire along the outboard edge of the port locker then across the aft end of the boat to the starb'd side. I mounted the plug just aft of the starb'd locker lid. It looks good and is not a difficult task.
Hope this helps
FW
Bill
S/V Rhapsody
CD25D #148
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
I just completed both of these task.
Snaking the wire to the base of the mast is a chore of luck but if you boat is like mine it can be done. I used a very stiff piece of wire a friend had and exited the breaker compartment in the upper outboard corner, followed the attachment points of the overhead hand rail and then finally exited at that base of the mast. I had to work the wire all the way to the bulkhead at the head and then back to the mast exit. It got very crowded (with wire & coax) at the mast base (I was adding new wire for an anchor light, not replacing the old wiring) so I cut a "donut" to fit the plywood cover thus increasing the room for the additional wires. I ran a messanger line first and then the wires. It was tight in places (the wire would snag), but Patience (sp) is the word here.
Re: Tiller pilot, I used the spare circuit and mounted a three way switch (on/off/on) because I also use that spare for the new anchor light. I had to replace the breaker as it was rated at 10 amps and the AP requires 12. I snaked the wire along the outboard edge of the port locker then across the aft end of the boat to the starb'd side. I mounted the plug just aft of the starb'd locker lid. It looks good and is not a difficult task.
Hope this helps
FW
Bill
S/V Rhapsody
CD25D #148
Frank wrote: I am interested in any advise re; replacement of wiring from circuit breaker to the base of the mast. Routing, method of pulling new wire, where to access, etc. Also,what is the best way to permanently wire power to an autopilot (tiller) or gps? There is one spare circuit which is used for spotlight, etc.
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
-
Bob Luby
Re: Wiring replacement for mast lights-CD25D
The previous owner of my 25D used a Dri-Plug for the autopilot power. Sturdy, and it still works after at least 10 years.
Rluby@aol.com
Rluby@aol.com
-
Frank
Re: Wiring replacement for mast lights-CD25D
Bill;
Thanks for the info. When adding anchor light wiring, were you able to snake the rigid wire directly to the mast base from the breaker? I assumed that I would have to go to the port cabin light and then from there across to the mast base. If there is a "crawl space"between the exterior and interior cabin top it may be a more direct connection, but I thought it was solid?
Any thoughts?
fcrumb1@aol.com
Thanks for the info. When adding anchor light wiring, were you able to snake the rigid wire directly to the mast base from the breaker? I assumed that I would have to go to the port cabin light and then from there across to the mast base. If there is a "crawl space"between the exterior and interior cabin top it may be a more direct connection, but I thought it was solid?
Any thoughts?
fcrumb1@aol.com
-
Bill
Re: Wiring replacement for mast lights-CD25D
Hello Frank
I hope this helps.
FW
Bill
S/V Rhapsody (the Original)
CD25D #148
I assumed that I would have to go to the port cabin light and then from there across to the mast base. If there is a "crawl space"between the exterior and interior cabin top it may be a more direct connection, but I thought it was solid?
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
No, my "crawl space" is open in areas and closed in others along the direct "route". But it was open following a line created by the handrail standoffs. It took some doing and it was in April or so (meaning my memory fades quickly). OH I just remembered. I snaked from the mast base to the forward most handrail standoff. You have to look up in the little hole and have someone moving the snake slowly.....That's how I did it. After you get the snake to the forward most standoff it was simple on my boat. I could not get to the Port forward cabin light at all!!!!Frank wrote: were you able to snake the rigid wire directly to the mast base from the breaker?
I hope this helps.
FW
Bill
S/V Rhapsody (the Original)
CD25D #148
I assumed that I would have to go to the port cabin light and then from there across to the mast base. If there is a "crawl space"between the exterior and interior cabin top it may be a more direct connection, but I thought it was solid?
Frank wrote: Any thoughts?
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com