md7a ignition key
Moderator: Jim Walsh
md7a ignition key
have recently broken one of my ignition keys...i have 2 left, one being in poor shape and the other an original in great shape...i have been unable to locate the proper key blank...the original is a -Star,U.S.A. 6VL V77- embosed on one side and Volvo VL1 V06 embossed on the other side...the copy is a -Taylor,U.S.A. V77- embossed on one side only...any assistance in obtaining the proper key blank would be appreciated
jack cothren
"Kingfisher"
CD 28 #238
jack cothren
"Kingfisher"
CD 28 #238
Re: md7a ignition key
hi jack....
i have an ongoing problem also with broken keys...till i work something out to protect it from breaking or bending...to solve an inmediate key bending i heat it up and bend it back to shape if lucky will not breake and can be re-use...
now i do have several key shops that have those blanks available and been able to make half dozen keys in case...if you still have not found blanks get back to me and will mail you some....mine are volvo for md7a engine on my CD30...
breaking keys problem will not go away till i figure out a way to protect pannel and key...im sure some other folks here can tell us how to go about doing so ...
cheers/mike
compinchecd30@yahoo.com
i have an ongoing problem also with broken keys...till i work something out to protect it from breaking or bending...to solve an inmediate key bending i heat it up and bend it back to shape if lucky will not breake and can be re-use...
now i do have several key shops that have those blanks available and been able to make half dozen keys in case...if you still have not found blanks get back to me and will mail you some....mine are volvo for md7a engine on my CD30...
breaking keys problem will not go away till i figure out a way to protect pannel and key...im sure some other folks here can tell us how to go about doing so ...
cheers/mike
compinchecd30@yahoo.com
Re: md7a ignition key
>>: breaking keys problem will not go away till i figure out a way to protect pannel and key...<<
The panel on LIQUIDITY is protected by a teak "box"... a 2" (or so) teak border with a swing up lucite cover.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
cdory28@aol.com
The panel on LIQUIDITY is protected by a teak "box"... a 2" (or so) teak border with a swing up lucite cover.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
cdory28@aol.com
Re: md7a ignition key
thanks neil and mike...my problem is not the panel its recessed, covered and all the way aft on the starboard side of the cockpit...it was more of a case of a very old key and me not paying attention while starting it after finishing a sail, single handing for the first time, in 10 t0 12 knt winds... i was distracted and elated...at least for a few seconds till the key broke...then i was a little busy trying to sail and remove the stub...i'm going to a couple of places tuesday and if no luck i'll be in touch mike thanks jackNeil Gordon wrote: >>: breaking keys problem will not go away till i figure out a way to protect pannel and key...<<
The panel on LIQUIDITY is protected by a teak "box"... a 2" (or so) teak border with a swing up lucite cover.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
jcoth49@aol.com
Re: md7a ignition key
Jack...careful on the heating and bending back...you could be actually weakening the metal....get extras. I have yet to experience the more common "kicking of the key" that has been written about here many times before, but I've come close. I am looking very seriously at placing the entire panel near my instrument cluster on the port bulkhead next to the companionway so that I can easily see my tack and temp, as well as protect the key. It's such a pain when underway, particularly in bad weather, to look down for a tach or temp readout. But there are many other tasks to tackle before that. I will go out and get a few more extra keys, just in case. Good Luck
Full Sails & Calm Seas,
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III, CD30 #235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net
Full Sails & Calm Seas,
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III, CD30 #235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net
Re: md7a ignition key
That seems to be a probelm with the engine control panel furnished with the MD7A. Go to a good locksmith with one of the good keys and tell him your problem.jack cothren wrote: have recently broken one of my ignition keys...i have 2 left, one being in poor shape and the other an original in great shape...i have been unable to locate the proper key blank...the original is a -Star,U.S.A. 6VL V77- embosed on one side and Volvo VL1 V06 embossed on the other side...the copy is a -Taylor,U.S.A. V77- embossed on one side only...any assistance in obtaining the proper key blank would be appreciated
jack cothren
"Kingfisher"
CD 28 #238
vwman@coastalnet.com
Re: md7a ignition key
I am reminded of an early experience running sports car gymkhanas with helmets which not only protected the head, but limited hearing. I drove forward into a "garage," stopped, slammed the gearshift into reverse, popped the clutch, and nothing happened. It wasn't until I looked at the tach and noticed it sitting a zero, that I knew the engine was dead. I had hit the ignition key with my glove-covered knuckle when I went for reverse.
My solution was to parallel the ignition switch with a toggle switch mounted under the dash so the engine could not be arbitrarily turned off in the heat of battle. This probably was not a particularly safe thing to do, but it worked for me.
So what? If Parfait had a switch with a key that kept being broken, I would add a switch inside the cabin and short out or bypass the one on the panel. This will probably help keep the alternator in good shape as well, since it won't be so easy to turn the switch off with the engine running. The fuel cutoff will be the only obvious choice in the cockpit. You could use another key switch or a simple toggle, either in plain view or hidden. Further, the panel itself will be unmarred.
Parfait's Perkins panel is sloped and recessed with a plastic cover over the upper 2/3. So far, no one has managed to break a key. I do wish I could read the instruments when at the wheel.
Great sailing weather down here, but I am home.
Ken
parfait@nc.rr.com
My solution was to parallel the ignition switch with a toggle switch mounted under the dash so the engine could not be arbitrarily turned off in the heat of battle. This probably was not a particularly safe thing to do, but it worked for me.
So what? If Parfait had a switch with a key that kept being broken, I would add a switch inside the cabin and short out or bypass the one on the panel. This will probably help keep the alternator in good shape as well, since it won't be so easy to turn the switch off with the engine running. The fuel cutoff will be the only obvious choice in the cockpit. You could use another key switch or a simple toggle, either in plain view or hidden. Further, the panel itself will be unmarred.
Parfait's Perkins panel is sloped and recessed with a plastic cover over the upper 2/3. So far, no one has managed to break a key. I do wish I could read the instruments when at the wheel.
Great sailing weather down here, but I am home.
Ken
jack cothren wrote:Neil Gordon wrote: >>: breaking keys problem will not go away till i figure out a way to protect pannel and key...<<
The panel on LIQUIDITY is protected by a teak "box"... a 2" (or so) teak border with a swing up lucite cover.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
thanks neil and mike...my problem is not the panel its recessed, covered and all the way aft on the starboard side of the cockpit...it was more of a case of a very old key and me not paying attention while starting it after finishing a sail, single handing for the first time, in 10 t0 12 knt winds... i was distracted and elated...at least for a few seconds till the key broke...then i was a little busy trying to sail and remove the stub...i'm going to a couple of places tuesday and if no luck i'll be in touch mike thanks jack
parfait@nc.rr.com