Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
ltjones@ualr.edu
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
ltjones@ualr.edu
Re: Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
Do yourself a favor and forget about the teak oil, it will not last. Many, many years ago I tried the oil route and tested just about every teak oil out there and all of them did not last. Then it was a host of teaks sealers ending with SEMCO, which also does not hold up long. Then tried varnish all around and it lasted longer than all the others but was a lot more work to maintain and eventually lifted from the oil in the wood. Then I discovered CETOL and life has been good since.
The only way to go is Cetol all around. At first it is a lot of work but once you get a build on it's easier to maintain with maintenance coats. My advise is to get a few days of good weather and get down several coats. Sleep overnight on the boat if necessary while doing this or hire someone to do it for you then you just have to do the yearly maintenance coat. Save yourself a lot of work and avoid all the rest.
Bob
Ranger #144
CD25D '84
Ranger1442@hotmail.com
The only way to go is Cetol all around. At first it is a lot of work but once you get a build on it's easier to maintain with maintenance coats. My advise is to get a few days of good weather and get down several coats. Sleep overnight on the boat if necessary while doing this or hire someone to do it for you then you just have to do the yearly maintenance coat. Save yourself a lot of work and avoid all the rest.
Bob
Ranger #144
CD25D '84
alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
Ranger1442@hotmail.com
Re: Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
In my opinion arrived at by experience, anything is better than oil on exterior trim, including leaving the teak bare. Oil is a dirt attractor when fresh, then fails before you get back for the next coat. Then you really need to clean and bleach before the next oil coat--this repetition is very hard on the teak.
Best solution would be one of the high endurance synthetics, 2-part "varnishes"...or leave it bare and just give it a scrub (always ACROSS the grain) whenever you show up.
Best solution would be one of the high endurance synthetics, 2-part "varnishes"...or leave it bare and just give it a scrub (always ACROSS the grain) whenever you show up.
alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff o hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
Re: Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
Alonzo,
Oil is beautiful. Oil stinks.
There is post after post on this BB about the pros and cons of Cetol, Armada, varnish, Semco and others. But one good coating is hardly ever mentioned, That is Teakguard (http//www.teakguard.com)
I've been using it for a couple of years and it's easier to use than any other coating, doesn't have any pigment, doesn't discolor, can't chip, seals against dirt and mold and never needs to be removed -- just refreshed occasionally which takes all of about an hour on my 25D -- eyebrows and all. It's more of a sealant than a coating - no build-up or dimension at all. I put a coat or two on in the Spring, once during the summer and a bit here and there during the season to touch up the wear spots. I have an applicator that came with the first kit I bought -- a pint of cleaner (ordinary one-part stuff), a pint of Teakguard and the applicator for touch up that I keep in the galley. It's a shoe-polish-type thinghy with a sponge top. A pint will do the 25D completely at least four times. By the time you have one coat done the surface is dry enough for the next one.
Whatever you end up using, as with any wood finishing, preparation is the key to success-- with teak a thorough cleaning is most important.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
Oil is beautiful. Oil stinks.
There is post after post on this BB about the pros and cons of Cetol, Armada, varnish, Semco and others. But one good coating is hardly ever mentioned, That is Teakguard (http//www.teakguard.com)
I've been using it for a couple of years and it's easier to use than any other coating, doesn't have any pigment, doesn't discolor, can't chip, seals against dirt and mold and never needs to be removed -- just refreshed occasionally which takes all of about an hour on my 25D -- eyebrows and all. It's more of a sealant than a coating - no build-up or dimension at all. I put a coat or two on in the Spring, once during the summer and a bit here and there during the season to touch up the wear spots. I have an applicator that came with the first kit I bought -- a pint of cleaner (ordinary one-part stuff), a pint of Teakguard and the applicator for touch up that I keep in the galley. It's a shoe-polish-type thinghy with a sponge top. A pint will do the 25D completely at least four times. By the time you have one coat done the surface is dry enough for the next one.
Whatever you end up using, as with any wood finishing, preparation is the key to success-- with teak a thorough cleaning is most important.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
Re: Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
alonzo
i've used it and didn't like it - it's loaded with pigment and isn't very attractive at first or later - it does seem to last longer than other oils - the best oil i've used was Watco Teak Oil, it looked beautiful and lasted fairly well, but i haven't been able to find it for a few years - i think the owners who use cetol and similar products are right, they last much much longer but need much more prep initially
len
md.frel@nwh.org
i've used it and didn't like it - it's loaded with pigment and isn't very attractive at first or later - it does seem to last longer than other oils - the best oil i've used was Watco Teak Oil, it looked beautiful and lasted fairly well, but i haven't been able to find it for a few years - i think the owners who use cetol and similar products are right, they last much much longer but need much more prep initially
len
md.frel@nwh.org
Re: TeakGuard
Don,
I used to be a dealer for TeakGuard here in SW Florida several years ago. We sold it for awhile after coming across the manufacturers display at the Miami Boat Show. We were impressed at the time because it was rather revolutionary compared to other products on the market at the time.
It does have a pigment, the pigment will settle to the bottom of the plastic container if you let it sit long enough. It is pigment with some other solids mixed in. Laquer thinner is the solvent that should be used to remove the product. The finish will break down over time like anything else. As you point out it is a good quick treatment for teak, very quick in fact.
A quality foam brush makes application a breeze. It is about the consistency of "thick water", in other words like water with some fine solids. I've never found anything easier to apply. Prep requirements are about the same as with any other finish. It has a decent color, attractive (better than Cetol non gloss) but nothing like varnished teak. It's not like a oil, it has a semi transparent tinted lighter shade. Surprisingly this product performed fairly well here in Florida. Better than would be expected. I'm surprised it isn't more popular.
The drawback of this product is that it will leach given enough time and weather. What I mean is that if it is not maintained as directed it will begin to break down in a way that the pigment will leach onto adjacent surfaces. This is only a situation that occurs if directed maintenance is ignored over a long term. The areas that become stained by leaching can be cleaned with laquer thinner removing all traces of the stain. Aside from that this is a very decent single part product. For best results use TeakGuard's cleaner/brightener but be careful because it is caustic, a very strong cleaner, follow the directions to the letter.
For the guy that wants his teak in nice shape and doesn't want to spend much time on it this is a good product overall. If you use it and don't maintain it as directed you can expect the leaching to occur down the road.
I used to be a dealer for TeakGuard here in SW Florida several years ago. We sold it for awhile after coming across the manufacturers display at the Miami Boat Show. We were impressed at the time because it was rather revolutionary compared to other products on the market at the time.
It does have a pigment, the pigment will settle to the bottom of the plastic container if you let it sit long enough. It is pigment with some other solids mixed in. Laquer thinner is the solvent that should be used to remove the product. The finish will break down over time like anything else. As you point out it is a good quick treatment for teak, very quick in fact.
A quality foam brush makes application a breeze. It is about the consistency of "thick water", in other words like water with some fine solids. I've never found anything easier to apply. Prep requirements are about the same as with any other finish. It has a decent color, attractive (better than Cetol non gloss) but nothing like varnished teak. It's not like a oil, it has a semi transparent tinted lighter shade. Surprisingly this product performed fairly well here in Florida. Better than would be expected. I'm surprised it isn't more popular.
The drawback of this product is that it will leach given enough time and weather. What I mean is that if it is not maintained as directed it will begin to break down in a way that the pigment will leach onto adjacent surfaces. This is only a situation that occurs if directed maintenance is ignored over a long term. The areas that become stained by leaching can be cleaned with laquer thinner removing all traces of the stain. Aside from that this is a very decent single part product. For best results use TeakGuard's cleaner/brightener but be careful because it is caustic, a very strong cleaner, follow the directions to the letter.
For the guy that wants his teak in nice shape and doesn't want to spend much time on it this is a good product overall. If you use it and don't maintain it as directed you can expect the leaching to occur down the road.
Don Sargeant wrote: Alonzo,
Oil is beautiful. Oil stinks.
There is post after post on this BB about the pros and cons of Cetol, Armada, varnish, Semco and others. But one good coating is hardly ever mentioned, That is Teakguard (http//www.teakguard.com)
I've been using it for a couple of years and it's easier to use than any other coating, doesn't have any pigment, doesn't discolor, can't chip, seals against dirt and mold and never needs to be removed -- just refreshed occasionally which takes all of about an hour on my 25D -- eyebrows and all. It's more of a sealant than a coating - no build-up or dimension at all. I put a coat or two on in the Spring, once during the summer and a bit here and there during the season to touch up the wear spots. I have an applicator that came with the first kit I bought -- a pint of cleaner (ordinary one-part stuff), a pint of Teakguard and the applicator for touch up that I keep in the galley. It's a shoe-polish-type thinghy with a sponge top. A pint will do the 25D completely at least four times. By the time you have one coat done the surface is dry enough for the next one.
Whatever you end up using, as with any wood finishing, preparation is the key to success-- with teak a thorough cleaning is most important.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
Re: Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
Thanks for all the input. I'm going to give Teakguard a try.alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
ltjones @ ualr . edu
Re: TeakGuard
Well, it doesn't have pigment like Cetol does. I haven't run into any leaching yet (three years), but I do recoat it in mid-season, and we don't Florida sun exposure here in the NE
dps
dps
John R. wrote: Don,
I used to be a dealer for TeakGuard here in SW Florida several years ago. We sold it for awhile after coming across the manufacturers display at the Miami Boat Show. We were impressed at the time because it was rather revolutionary compared to other products on the market at the time.
It does have a pigment, the pigment will settle to the bottom of the plastic container if you let it sit long enough. It is pigment with some other solids mixed in. Laquer thinner is the solvent that should be used to remove the product. The finish will break down over time like anything else. As you point out it is a good quick treatment for teak, very quick in fact.
A quality foam brush makes application a breeze. It is about the consistency of "thick water", in other words like water with some fine solids. I've never found anything easier to apply. Prep requirements are about the same as with any other finish. It has a decent color, attractive (better than Cetol non gloss) but nothing like varnished teak. It's not like a oil, it has a semi transparent tinted lighter shade. Surprisingly this product performed fairly well here in Florida. Better than would be expected. I'm surprised it isn't more popular.
The drawback of this product is that it will leach given enough time and weather. What I mean is that if it is not maintained as directed it will begin to break down in a way that the pigment will leach onto adjacent surfaces. This is only a situation that occurs if directed maintenance is ignored over a long term. The areas that become stained by leaching can be cleaned with laquer thinner removing all traces of the stain. Aside from that this is a very decent single part product. For best results use TeakGuard's cleaner/brightener but be careful because it is caustic, a very strong cleaner, follow the directions to the letter.
For the guy that wants his teak in nice shape and doesn't want to spend much time on it this is a good product overall. If you use it and don't maintain it as directed you can expect the leaching to occur down the road.
Don Sargeant wrote: Alonzo,
Oil is beautiful. Oil stinks.
There is post after post on this BB about the pros and cons of Cetol, Armada, varnish, Semco and others. But one good coating is hardly ever mentioned, That is Teakguard (http//www.teakguard.com)
I've been using it for a couple of years and it's easier to use than any other coating, doesn't have any pigment, doesn't discolor, can't chip, seals against dirt and mold and never needs to be removed -- just refreshed occasionally which takes all of about an hour on my 25D -- eyebrows and all. It's more of a sealant than a coating - no build-up or dimension at all. I put a coat or two on in the Spring, once during the summer and a bit here and there during the season to touch up the wear spots. I have an applicator that came with the first kit I bought -- a pint of cleaner (ordinary one-part stuff), a pint of Teakguard and the applicator for touch up that I keep in the galley. It's a shoe-polish-type thinghy with a sponge top. A pint will do the 25D completely at least four times. By the time you have one coat done the surface is dry enough for the next one.
Whatever you end up using, as with any wood finishing, preparation is the key to success-- with teak a thorough cleaning is most important.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
Don Sargeant wrote:alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
Re: TeakGuard
Well, it doesn't have pigment like Cetol does. I haven't run into any leaching yet (three years), but I do recoat it in mid-season, and we don't Florida sun exposure here in the NE
dps
dps
John R. wrote: Don,
I used to be a dealer for TeakGuard here in SW Florida several years ago. We sold it for awhile after coming across the manufacturers display at the Miami Boat Show. We were impressed at the time because it was rather revolutionary compared to other products on the market at the time.
It does have a pigment, the pigment will settle to the bottom of the plastic container if you let it sit long enough. It is pigment with some other solids mixed in. Laquer thinner is the solvent that should be used to remove the product. The finish will break down over time like anything else. As you point out it is a good quick treatment for teak, very quick in fact.
A quality foam brush makes application a breeze. It is about the consistency of "thick water", in other words like water with some fine solids. I've never found anything easier to apply. Prep requirements are about the same as with any other finish. It has a decent color, attractive (better than Cetol non gloss) but nothing like varnished teak. It's not like a oil, it has a semi transparent tinted lighter shade. Surprisingly this product performed fairly well here in Florida. Better than would be expected. I'm surprised it isn't more popular.
The drawback of this product is that it will leach given enough time and weather. What I mean is that if it is not maintained as directed it will begin to break down in a way that the pigment will leach onto adjacent surfaces. This is only a situation that occurs if directed maintenance is ignored over a long term. The areas that become stained by leaching can be cleaned with laquer thinner removing all traces of the stain. Aside from that this is a very decent single part product. For best results use TeakGuard's cleaner/brightener but be careful because it is caustic, a very strong cleaner, follow the directions to the letter.
For the guy that wants his teak in nice shape and doesn't want to spend much time on it this is a good product overall. If you use it and don't maintain it as directed you can expect the leaching to occur down the road.
Don Sargeant wrote: Alonzo,
Oil is beautiful. Oil stinks.
There is post after post on this BB about the pros and cons of Cetol, Armada, varnish, Semco and others. But one good coating is hardly ever mentioned, That is Teakguard (http//www.teakguard.com)
I've been using it for a couple of years and it's easier to use than any other coating, doesn't have any pigment, doesn't discolor, can't chip, seals against dirt and mold and never needs to be removed -- just refreshed occasionally which takes all of about an hour on my 25D -- eyebrows and all. It's more of a sealant than a coating - no build-up or dimension at all. I put a coat or two on in the Spring, once during the summer and a bit here and there during the season to touch up the wear spots. I have an applicator that came with the first kit I bought -- a pint of cleaner (ordinary one-part stuff), a pint of Teakguard and the applicator for touch up that I keep in the galley. It's a shoe-polish-type thinghy with a sponge top. A pint will do the 25D completely at least four times. By the time you have one coat done the surface is dry enough for the next one.
Whatever you end up using, as with any wood finishing, preparation is the key to success-- with teak a thorough cleaning is most important.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
Don Sargeant wrote:alonzo jones wrote: Anyone out there had experience with Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil?
Since my boat lives 500 miles from where I do I can't seem to keep
up with varnish or Armada, partly because I can't get enough coats
on during one visit for the stuff to hold up till the next visit.
So I'm looking for an oil based solution to keeping my teak in shape.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
-- alonzo (30K 'Arianna')
Re: Starbrite Tropical Teak Oil??
Alonzo...I think Bob Malinka's post sums it up accurately. Cetol or Armada aren't that hard to handle and the results are SO rewarding.
Just my 2cents tho...
serge@srtrop.com
Just my 2cents tho...
serge@srtrop.com
Re: Cetol & Armada
Serge --Serge Zimberoff wrote: Alonzo...I think Bob Malinka's post sums it up accurately. Cetol or Armada aren't that hard to handle and the results are SO rewarding.
Just my 2cents tho...
I agree with you. After sanding to bare wood I put on one coat of armada. A few weeks later I put on a second coat but the first was already showing degradation and a couple of months later the second coat was starting to go. I'm sure that if I could get 3 or 4 coats on at one time it would be ok but being 500 miles from my boat just barely lets me sail it, let alone work on it. Each trip is already more working than sailing.
-- alonzo
ltjones @ ualr . edu