Reefing with the Hood Seafurl LD 810

[Mike Nesja]

Our Cape Dory 25D has a circa 1985 Hood Seafurl LD Model 810, installed by the previous owner.

It works fine for furling and reefs OK in light wind. However, in winds of any strength at all (say 10 knots or more) it has trouble holding the reef, even with both sides of the furling line cleated off. It seems as though the force of the wind on the genoa simply causes the furler to unwind the sail.

The 7/16" furling line (now about 16 years old) leads directly back from the drum, without the use of fairlead blocks on the foredeck, which the Hood manual recommends to keep the initial angle of the line to the forestay at 90 degrees. Could this causing the slippage and allowing the genoa to "un-reef" ?

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Mike & Erica Nesja
CD25D "Wielewaal" (#045)

PS: Hood Seafurl LD operation was discussed in an earlier thread, part of which I have pasted below (We have not as yet tried adjusting the gap between the upper and lower covers):


Posted by: John R. on 6/18/01 at 18:20
In Reply to: Roller Furling - Hood DL Model posted by Tom B on 6/17/01 at 17:27

I have an older Hood DL roller furling unit on my CD25 that was just recently purchased. This is a double line or spliced loop line unit. It is not the newer SL (single line model). The roller furling unit works fine for furling but haven't tried reefing the sail.Does anyone else out there have a Hood DL with experience with reefing with this model?

/////////////

I think you are refering to the Hood Seafurl "LD" model designation, meaning "Line Drive". We've got two of them on board and they work great. You can reef just fine with them just be sure and cleat off both lines, usually done on the same cleat. The "LD" furlers are recommended by Hood to only be used with Yale "ULS" yacht braid for the continuous furling line. If your unit is the model #705 then it uses 3/8" (10mm)line. If the unit is either the #810 or #915 then it uses 7/16" (11mm) line. The gap should be 1/8" between the upper and lower sheave covers. Someone else mentioned using a "nickel" to check the gap.

Running the genoa lead block forward will help to gain a good sheet lead when reefed.






nesja@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

Mike,

I have the same furler, and love it. It will reef our Hood 140% genoa just great..this is on a CD30. I did replace the continuous line about three years ago, and also back about 11 years ago. We used the recommended Yale ULS (7/16"). The line that I replaced was a Yale line that had a very fuzzy finish..it had a great 'hand', gripped the clutches like it had glue, and lasted 8 years with a lot of use on Superior. I would recommend either line for the furler line.
In your case, start with the clutch plates. Open up the two halves by loosening the screw on the top of the top shell and raising it up so the clutch is revealed. Use a flashlight, and inspect the plates for oil or salt buildup, or damage. Check to see if they are glazed over from too many slipping lines, and if so remove the glazing with maybe acetone or alcohol (leaves little residue). Check the line for condition. The clutch plates were replaceable..don't know if they are still. I know the manual lists a part number for them.
As a last resort, I would even consider using a fine abrasive paper on the fingers..litely, so give the fingers a little bite on the cordage. Just go litely here.
The times when we have had the genoa unwind on us were times when only the active lead was cleated off. The other lead was allowed to be free, so it worked itself off the clutch plate and then slipped.

For certain, you need to have the lead angle as shown in the manual. That is essential. That would be my first stab..then the alcohol cleaning etc.

Good Luck,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

Our Cape Dory 25D has a circa 1985 Hood Seafurl LD Model 810, installed by the previous owner.

It works fine for furling and reefs OK in light wind. However, in winds of any strength at all (say 10 knots or more) it has trouble holding the reef, even with both sides of the furling line cleated off. It seems as though the force of the wind on the genoa simply causes the furler to unwind the sail.

The 7/16" furling line (now about 16 years old) leads directly back from the drum, without the use of fairlead blocks on the foredeck, which the Hood manual recommends to keep the initial angle of the line to the forestay at 90 degrees. Could this causing the slippage and allowing the genoa to "un-reef" ?

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Mike & Erica Nesja
CD25D "Wielewaal" (#045)

PS: Hood Seafurl LD operation was discussed in an earlier thread, part of which I have pasted below (We have not as yet tried adjusting the gap between the upper and lower covers):


Posted by: John R. on 6/18/01 at 18:20
In Reply to: Roller Furling - Hood DL Model posted by Tom B on 6/17/01 at 17:27

I have an older Hood DL roller furling unit on my CD25 that was just recently purchased. This is a double line or spliced loop line unit. It is not the newer SL (single line model). The roller furling unit works fine for furling but haven't tried reefing the sail.Does anyone else out there have a Hood DL with experience with reefing with this model?

/////////////

I think you are refering to the Hood Seafurl "LD" model designation, meaning "Line Drive". We've got two of them on board and they work great. You can reef just fine with them just be sure and cleat off both lines, usually done on the same cleat. The "LD" furlers are recommended by Hood to only be used with Yale "ULS" yacht braid for the continuous furling line. If your unit is the model #705 then it uses 3/8" (10mm)line. If the unit is either the #810 or #915 then it uses 7/16" (11mm) line. The gap should be 1/8" between the upper and lower sheave covers. Someone else mentioned using a "nickel" to check the gap.

Running the genoa lead block forward will help to gain a good sheet lead when reefed.

demers@sgi.com

[John R.]

I like Larry have the same furlers on our CD30. One on the genoa and one on the staysail. The lead block must be just as the manual states and the furling line must be led off the drum perfectly perpendicular at 90 degrees to the stay. Both furling lines should be cleated as the manual recommends. I've not experienced the buildup problem Larry has described but you should check it out. The correct line and size is imperative and obviously should not be heavily worn. I would doubt the sheave halves would be worn to the degree they need replacing but it is certainly worth dismantling and making a thorough inspection. Be certain the gap between the sheave cover and the sheave bottom is 1/8". Make sure you have 7/16" braid as a furling line. Yale ULS is the recommended brand.

The sheave part numbers for the #810 furler are:

Upper sheave - # 6021

Bottom sheave - # 5979

My guess is the furling line is aged and overly worn on your system. We've never had any problems with both Hood LD systems and I believe they are one of the better designed furlers.

Mike,

I have the same furler, and love it. It will reef our Hood 140% genoa just great..this is on a CD30. I did replace the continuous line about three years ago, and also back about 11 years ago. We used the recommended Yale ULS (7/16"). The line that I replaced was a Yale line that had a very fuzzy finish..it had a great 'hand', gripped the clutches like it had glue, and lasted 8 years with a lot of use on Superior. I would recommend either line for the furler line.
In your case, start with the clutch plates. Open up the two halves by loosening the screw on the top of the top shell and raising it up so the clutch is revealed. Use a flashlight, and inspect the plates for oil or salt buildup, or damage. Check to see if they are glazed over from too many slipping lines, and if so remove the glazing with maybe acetone or alcohol (leaves little residue). Check the line for condition. The clutch plates were replaceable..don't know if they are still. I know the manual lists a part number for them.
As a last resort, I would even consider using a fine abrasive paper on the fingers..litely, so give the fingers a little bite on the cordage. Just go litely here.
The times when we have had the genoa unwind on us were times when only the active lead was cleated off. The other lead was allowed to be free, so it worked itself off the clutch plate and then slipped.

For certain, you need to have the lead angle as shown in the manual. That is essential. That would be my first stab..then the alcohol cleaning etc.

Good Luck,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

Our Cape Dory 25D has a circa 1985 Hood Seafurl LD Model 810, installed by the previous owner.

It works fine for furling and reefs OK in light wind. However, in winds of any strength at all (say 10 knots or more) it has trouble holding the reef, even with both sides of the furling line cleated off. It seems as though the force of the wind on the genoa simply causes the furler to unwind the sail.

The 7/16" furling line (now about 16 years old) leads directly back from the drum, without the use of fairlead blocks on the foredeck, which the Hood manual recommends to keep the initial angle of the line to the forestay at 90 degrees. Could this causing the slippage and allowing the genoa to "un-reef" ?

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Mike & Erica Nesja
CD25D "Wielewaal" (#045)

PS: Hood Seafurl LD operation was discussed in an earlier thread, part of which I have pasted below (We have not as yet tried adjusting the gap between the upper and lower covers):


Posted by: John R. on 6/18/01 at 18:20
In Reply to: Roller Furling - Hood DL Model posted by Tom B on 6/17/01 at 17:27

I have an older Hood DL roller furling unit on my CD25 that was just recently purchased. This is a double line or spliced loop line unit. It is not the newer SL (single line model). The roller furling unit works fine for furling but haven't tried reefing the sail.Does anyone else out there have a Hood DL with experience with reefing with this model?

/////////////

I think you are refering to the Hood Seafurl "LD" model designation, meaning "Line Drive". We've got two of them on board and they work great. You can reef just fine with them just be sure and cleat off both lines, usually done on the same cleat. The "LD" furlers are recommended by Hood to only be used with Yale "ULS" yacht braid for the continuous furling line. If your unit is the model #705 then it uses 3/8" (10mm)line. If the unit is either the #810 or #915 then it uses 7/16" (11mm) line. The gap should be 1/8" between the upper and lower sheave covers. Someone else mentioned using a "nickel" to check the gap.

Running the genoa lead block forward will help to gain a good sheet lead when reefed.

[Larry DeMers]

John and Mike,

The sad fact is that Hood decided that too many people were having the same troubles as Mike is, and stopped marketing the device as a reefer..just as a furler. Seems the trick is that both falls of the reefing line Must Be Cleated off Tightly in higher winds.
They do offer an upgrade (?) to their SL single line furler/reefer, but the cost of the upgrade is more than I paid for the line drive itself..$800. This is about 2 year old info though, so something may have changed since then.
I don't understand why there should be a problem with the system, as it is a fairly robust construction, and a good design. It has to be installed properly though, and that is where you can make an improvement Mike..in the fairleads. We also added small turning blocks that mount on the stanchion bases. This routes our furling line back to the cockpit where I provided another bronze cleat on the coaming for locking it down when reefed or away.

John, did you switch over to the smaller LD unit for the staysail, or stay with the 810? I like that idea by the way. Then the staysail could be cut totally different than it is now..made for roller reefing. Now that would cause my sailmaker to scratch her head a bit!

Cheers and have a good weekend all~!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I like Larry have the same furlers on our CD30. One on the genoa and one on the staysail. The lead block must be just as the manual states and the furling line must be led off the drum perfectly perpendicular at 90 degrees to the stay. Both furling lines should be cleated as the manual recommends. I've not experienced the buildup problem Larry has described but you should check it out. The correct line and size is imperative and obviously should not be heavily worn. I would doubt the sheave halves would be worn to the degree they need replacing but it is certainly worth dismantling and making a thorough inspection. Be certain the gap between the sheave cover and the sheave bottom is 1/8". Make sure you have 7/16" braid as a furling line. Yale ULS is the recommended brand.

The sheave part numbers for the #810 furler are:

Upper sheave - # 6021

Bottom sheave - # 5979

My guess is the furling line is aged and overly worn on your system. We've never had any problems with both Hood LD systems and I believe they are one of the better designed furlers.

Mike,

I have the same furler, and love it. It will reef our Hood 140% genoa just great..this is on a CD30. I did replace the continuous line about three years ago, and also back about 11 years ago. We used the recommended Yale ULS (7/16"). The line that I replaced was a Yale line that had a very fuzzy finish..it had a great 'hand', gripped the clutches like it had glue, and lasted 8 years with a lot of use on Superior. I would recommend either line for the furler line.
In your case, start with the clutch plates. Open up the two halves by loosening the screw on the top of the top shell and raising it up so the clutch is revealed. Use a flashlight, and inspect the plates for oil or salt buildup, or damage. Check to see if they are glazed over from too many slipping lines, and if so remove the glazing with maybe acetone or alcohol (leaves little residue). Check the line for condition. The clutch plates were replaceable..don't know if they are still. I know the manual lists a part number for them.
As a last resort, I would even consider using a fine abrasive paper on the fingers..litely, so give the fingers a little bite on the cordage. Just go litely here.
The times when we have had the genoa unwind on us were times when only the active lead was cleated off. The other lead was allowed to be free, so it worked itself off the clutch plate and then slipped.

For certain, you need to have the lead angle as shown in the manual. That is essential. That would be my first stab..then the alcohol cleaning etc.

Good Luck,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

Our Cape Dory 25D has a circa 1985 Hood Seafurl LD Model 810, installed by the previous owner.

It works fine for furling and reefs OK in light wind. However, in winds of any strength at all (say 10 knots or more) it has trouble holding the reef, even with both sides of the furling line cleated off. It seems as though the force of the wind on the genoa simply causes the furler to unwind the sail.

The 7/16" furling line (now about 16 years old) leads directly back from the drum, without the use of fairlead blocks on the foredeck, which the Hood manual recommends to keep the initial angle of the line to the forestay at 90 degrees. Could this causing the slippage and allowing the genoa to "un-reef" ?

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Mike & Erica Nesja
CD25D "Wielewaal" (#045)

PS: Hood Seafurl LD operation was discussed in an earlier thread, part of which I have pasted below (We have not as yet tried adjusting the gap between the upper and lower covers):


Posted by: John R. on 6/18/01 at 18:20
In Reply to: Roller Furling - Hood DL Model posted by Tom B on 6/17/01 at 17:27 /////////////

I think you are refering to the Hood Seafurl "LD" model designation, meaning "Line Drive". We've got two of them on board and they work great. You can reef just fine with them just be sure and cleat off both lines, usually done on the same cleat. The "LD" furlers are recommended by Hood to only be used with Yale "ULS" yacht braid for the continuous furling line. If your unit is the model #705 then it uses 3/8" (10mm)line. If the unit is either the #810 or #915 then it uses 7/16" (11mm) line. The gap should be 1/8" between the upper and lower sheave covers. Someone else mentioned using a "nickel" to check the gap.

Running the genoa lead block forward will help to gain a good sheet lead when reefed.

demers@sgi.com

[Mike Nesja]

Larry & John,

Thanks for the detailed, timely, and supportive comments! I'll post a follow-up on this once we have time to take another good look at the furler.



nesja@aol.com

[John R.]

Larry,

It's the same unit. By the way, FWIW I don't recall ever seeing the "LD" marketed per se as a furler/reefer, only as a furler and the manuals that I'm familiar with have always contained info on recommending that both leads of the furling line be cleated. I sold several of these units back in the early 90's and I always instructed buyers to be sure to follow the directions and cleat off both lines together on the same cleat. Mike.......pay particular attention to that point to possibly solve your problem.

John and Mike,

The sad fact is that Hood decided that too many people were having the same troubles as Mike is, and stopped marketing the device as a reefer..just as a furler. Seems the trick is that both falls of the reefing line Must Be Cleated off Tightly in higher winds.
They do offer an upgrade (?) to their SL single line furler/reefer, but the cost of the upgrade is more than I paid for the line drive itself..$800. This is about 2 year old info though, so something may have changed since then.
I don't understand why there should be a problem with the system, as it is a fairly robust construction, and a good design. It has to be installed properly though, and that is where you can make an improvement Mike..in the fairleads. We also added small turning blocks that mount on the stanchion bases. This routes our furling line back to the cockpit where I provided another bronze cleat on the coaming for locking it down when reefed or away.

John, did you switch over to the smaller LD unit for the staysail, or stay with the 810? I like that idea by the way. Then the staysail could be cut totally different than it is now..made for roller reefing. Now that would cause my sailmaker to scratch her head a bit!

Cheers and have a good weekend all~!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I like Larry have the same furlers on our CD30. One on the genoa and one on the staysail. The lead block must be just as the manual states and the furling line must be led off the drum perfectly perpendicular at 90 degrees to the stay. Both furling lines should be cleated as the manual recommends. I've not experienced the buildup problem Larry has described but you should check it out. The correct line and size is imperative and obviously should not be heavily worn. I would doubt the sheave halves would be worn to the degree they need replacing but it is certainly worth dismantling and making a thorough inspection. Be certain the gap between the sheave cover and the sheave bottom is 1/8". Make sure you have 7/16" braid as a furling line. Yale ULS is the recommended brand.

The sheave part numbers for the #810 furler are:

Upper sheave - # 6021

Bottom sheave - # 5979

My guess is the furling line is aged and overly worn on your system. We've never had any problems with both Hood LD systems and I believe they are one of the better designed furlers.

Mike,

I have the same furler, and love it. It will reef our Hood 140% genoa just great..this is on a CD30. I did replace the continuous line about three years ago, and also back about 11 years ago. We used the recommended Yale ULS (7/16"). The line that I replaced was a Yale line that had a very fuzzy finish..it had a great 'hand', gripped the clutches like it had glue, and lasted 8 years with a lot of use on Superior. I would recommend either line for the furler line.
In your case, start with the clutch plates. Open up the two halves by loosening the screw on the top of the top shell and raising it up so the clutch is revealed. Use a flashlight, and inspect the plates for oil or salt buildup, or damage. Check to see if they are glazed over from too many slipping lines, and if so remove the glazing with maybe acetone or alcohol (leaves little residue). Check the line for condition. The clutch plates were replaceable..don't know if they are still. I know the manual lists a part number for them.
As a last resort, I would even consider using a fine abrasive paper on the fingers..litely, so give the fingers a little bite on the cordage. Just go litely here.
The times when we have had the genoa unwind on us were times when only the active lead was cleated off. The other lead was allowed to be free, so it worked itself off the clutch plate and then slipped.

For certain, you need to have the lead angle as shown in the manual. That is essential. That would be my first stab..then the alcohol cleaning etc.

Good Luck,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

[Larry DeMers]

Mike and John,
Just tested the whole reefing concept with the 810. Did 12 miles in 30-35 kts. (northeaster with monster waves in the 12 -15ft range). We used only a reefed genoa (normally a 140% genny reefed to 90%) and maintained 6.5-7.8 kts. all the way home. Worked perfectly without slipping.

Larry

Larry & John,

Thanks for the detailed, timely, and supportive comments! I'll post a follow-up on this once we have time to take another good look at the furler.

demers@sgi.com