I own a '76 CD28 and sailing San Francisco Bay. The yard installed
a Profurl sytem and I bought a new Yankee headsail for it, which I
shorten in extreme conditions.
I have noticed that the Profurl forestay tends to swing in what I
would call normal 20+ San Francisco winds. How do I determine if
this is normal?
Do I call a rigger @ $$$$$ an hour?
margrit@earthlink.net
Rollerfurling headsail
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ken Cave
Re: Rollerfurling headsail
Sounds like you got a problem that only a rigger can take care of!
I have a Harken furler on my 28CD and it is tight as a drum in all kinds of weather. Something has loosened somewhere-and now may be a good time to have the rigger tune your boat, and also look for potential problems if you have not replaced your rigging in the past few years.
Ken Cave
bcave@whidbey.net
I have a Harken furler on my 28CD and it is tight as a drum in all kinds of weather. Something has loosened somewhere-and now may be a good time to have the rigger tune your boat, and also look for potential problems if you have not replaced your rigging in the past few years.
Ken Cave
bcave@whidbey.net
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Al Smith
Re: Rollerfurling headsail
I have a Profurl on my CD33 and had the same trouble after it was installed. I called the rigger back and he tightened the forestay. Sails great now.Margrit Keyes wrote: I own a '76 CD28 and sailing San Francisco Bay. The yard installed
a Profurl sytem and I bought a new Yankee headsail for it, which I
shorten in extreme conditions.
I have noticed that the Profurl forestay tends to swing in what I
would call normal 20+ San Francisco winds. How do I determine if
this is normal?
Do I call a rigger @ $$$$$ an hour?
saylr@adlelphia.net
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Roger
Re: Rollerfurling headsail
Forestay adjustment should be independent of your roller furler (I have a Hood system). It is adjusted to the wind conditions and rig tunning you want. You add more tension in Higher Wind to reduce the forestay sag and improve your windward pointing. Assuming you don't have an adjustable backstay, the forestay will need to be adjusted for your usual sailing conditions (e.g. 20 kts).
Suggest you start by looking at your CD owner's manual. This first rule is to keep the mast in colum (that's straight - fore and aft). You don't want the fore/back stay to be too tight or you'll damage the boat. Too loose and you'll risk the mast.
My experience has been typically be to run 2-4 inches of flex in the forestay (side to side). You adjust the turnbuckle at the base of the forestay (remember righty - tighty). If it blows 15, we often run 3-4 inches of "sag", a little more if its lighter. For winds above 20, we put on a few turns to help shape the jib to keep the sag less than 4 inches. Usually, its a matter of a full turn or less (boat dependent). Next time you're out in 20kts, look at the amount of sag you get on a tight beat (you're looking for max. displacement about 1/3 to 1/2 the way to the mast head).
Now, rather than call a rigger you can "tune" the rig -- or get a friend with some experience. Start by checking the mast (look up the mainsail track at the boom). It should be straight or have a slight rake (at the top) of a few inches aft. Some rake is probably good for your wind conditions.
Check the forestay tension by hand -- if its more than 1-2 inches about 6 ft. off the deck, add a half turn on the turnbuckle. Check to be sure its getting tighter - then adjust as needed.
This is not a comprehensive guide but hopefully gives you some confidence that tuning your rig is not hard. You can read about it at the library or on-line.
Finally, don't forget to check the shrouds after you get the head stay set. The principals are similar. Just remember you want to keep the mast in colum... Good luck
Roger
rward@efortress.com
Suggest you start by looking at your CD owner's manual. This first rule is to keep the mast in colum (that's straight - fore and aft). You don't want the fore/back stay to be too tight or you'll damage the boat. Too loose and you'll risk the mast.
My experience has been typically be to run 2-4 inches of flex in the forestay (side to side). You adjust the turnbuckle at the base of the forestay (remember righty - tighty). If it blows 15, we often run 3-4 inches of "sag", a little more if its lighter. For winds above 20, we put on a few turns to help shape the jib to keep the sag less than 4 inches. Usually, its a matter of a full turn or less (boat dependent). Next time you're out in 20kts, look at the amount of sag you get on a tight beat (you're looking for max. displacement about 1/3 to 1/2 the way to the mast head).
Now, rather than call a rigger you can "tune" the rig -- or get a friend with some experience. Start by checking the mast (look up the mainsail track at the boom). It should be straight or have a slight rake (at the top) of a few inches aft. Some rake is probably good for your wind conditions.
Check the forestay tension by hand -- if its more than 1-2 inches about 6 ft. off the deck, add a half turn on the turnbuckle. Check to be sure its getting tighter - then adjust as needed.
This is not a comprehensive guide but hopefully gives you some confidence that tuning your rig is not hard. You can read about it at the library or on-line.
Finally, don't forget to check the shrouds after you get the head stay set. The principals are similar. Just remember you want to keep the mast in colum... Good luck
Roger
Margrit Keyes wrote: I own a '76 CD28 and sailing San Francisco Bay. The yard installed
a Profurl sytem and I bought a new Yankee headsail for it, which I
shorten in extreme conditions.
I have noticed that the Profurl forestay tends to swing in what I
would call normal 20+ San Francisco winds. How do I determine if
this is normal?
Do I call a rigger @ $$$$$ an hour?
rward@efortress.com