Different methods for holding the head door open

[brian]

Besides a bungee cord, what other means have people used to hold the head door open?



brian@harvardthermal.com

[Antony P. Jeske]

Brian:
If I remember correctly, the CD-28 I used to own came with a bungee cord to hold it open. After the cord lost some of it's elasticity the door would bang with every roll of the boat.
Then I installed a cabin door hook and eye. That didn't work either. The door still banged, although less.
Finally, I installed a "nylon stud and socket catch" (page 484 of my West Marine catalog) whch firmly gripped the door and stopped the banging.
By the way, I added these to the backs of the setees also to prevent those from banging.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD25-D #141
Carpe Diem
San Diego



ajeske@ixpres.com

[John R.]

Besides a bungee cord, what other means have people used to hold the head door open?

The best way I've found is to use a bronze or brass slide bolt latch (aka: barrel bolt) mounted on the door at the top outer corner. Mount the latch so that the slide bolt travels vertically and also make sure the latch is mounted as close to the top edge as possible. Next make a teak block that will mount on the underside of the cabin top. The thickness will vary depending on the particular boat and the space between the door top and the cabin top. You can make the teak block any shape that appeals to you. I make mine round and about 1.5" in diameter and it is .75" thick. Make it an appropriate thickness so that the slide bolt will penetrate a suitable distance up into the block when the bolt is fully extended and in the locked position.

You need to make a run to the hardware store and get a flanged bronze sleeve bearing with a .25" inside diameter which should be the bolt diameter of the sliding bolt latch. Take the latch with you to be sure it is a good fit. I recommend you only use a Perko latch, they are high quality and the bolt is "true". They also have a nice black plastic friction block that fits underneath the bolt to keep it from rattling and a little snug. The latches operate very smoothly. It is well worth the trouble getting the Perko. Don't buy that chinese junk.

Okay now that you have everything in hand remount the latch where you previously installed it. Next, take the teak block you made and place it against the cabin top above the latch with the door located in the open position where you want it. Next slide the latch bolt up so it contacts the teak. Very carefully mark the position around the bolt tip so you know where the hole will need to be drilled to fit the bearing sleeve. Do this carefully. Once you are sure you have everything aligned properly remove the teak block. You may need to form the back of the teak block so that it's face sits level to the plane of the door top. Keep in mind the bearing sleeve must be installed in the teak block on the same vertical axis as the slide bolt or it may bind. Next drill a hole with a "wood" drill bit the size of the outside diameter of the bronze sleeve bearing. Use only a wood bit or the teak will splinter and the bearing flange will not cover it. Next, trial fit the bearing in the hole. The next step is drilling and countersinking appropriate fastener holes in the teak to be able to fasten it to the cabin top. The amount and location of these holes and their size depends on how you designed your teak block and what fasteners you use. The use of #6 or #8 stainless self-tapping flathead screws is all you should need. You will need to countersink the holes so you can bung them with teak bungs.

Okay, now take your teak block back in the boat and hold it in position against the cabin top above the latch you mounted on the door. Slide the bolt up into the teak block with the bearing in place. Now get the door in the position where you want it to be held by the latch. Now draw a pencil line around your teak block on the cabin top. Move the door out of the way and relocate the block and drill appropriate holes for your fasteners. Now mount the block. Next, move the door in position and test the latch. Everything should latch perfectly and the door should be fixed in position. If you used the perko latch there should be only very slight movement of the bolt in the bearing and the door should not be able to rattle. The bolt should slide in and out without binding. If it binds slightly you can either file or drill the bearing out slightly or drill the teak which is not the preferred method. Once everything is okay remove the teak block and epoxy the bearing in place. You can countersink the flange area of the bearing if you want but it is best to leave it raised above the teak, it protects the teak around the hole opening. Once that is done you can do your final install and bung over the screw holes and then do whatever finish on the teak you prefer.

This makes an excellent secure non rattling latching method. No hooks to get caught on and no unsightly shock cord rigs. I'll send you a pic of the arrangement in our 30. This small project is easier done than said. Have fun.

[Tom]

My boat came with large sriff velcro pads. An earlier post on this board said that Radio Shack has them. They're stiff not the cloth backed kind. Epoxy the loops to the bulkhead and the other side to the door a little above half way up. Sort of where you grab the door to pull. It's worked perfectly for 13 years. Quick, cheap, easy to install.

Besides a bungee cord, what other means have people used to hold the head door open?

TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Bill]

Tony

I would be very interested in hearing how you install the latches on the setees? Or is it simple and straight forward?

Thanks

Bill

Brian:
If I remember correctly, the CD-28 I used to own came with a bungee cord to hold it open. After the cord lost some of it's elasticity the door would bang with every roll of the boat.
Then I installed a cabin door hook and eye. That didn't work either. The door still banged, although less.
Finally, I installed a "nylon stud and socket catch" (page 484 of my West Marine catalog) whch firmly gripped the door and stopped the banging.
By the way, I added these to the backs of the setees also to prevent those from banging.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD25-D #141
Carpe Diem
San Diego

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Bill]

the Bi-Fold door on 25D came with some truly heavy duty "velcro" disks that require "some" effort in order to "unstick" the velcro. even in the heat of the year these disks have never failed. they are mounted with screws and are exteremly tenacious.....The "industrial" velcro I used on the sette backs melted during their first summer (the glue did)!!!!

Hope that helps.

Bill

Besides a bungee cord, what other means have people used to hold the head door open?

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Bill:
The only tricky part of the installation was making sure the two parts of the latch line up when the setee is closed. I screwed the sockets in place on the bulkhead behind the sette back, then pressed the ball half into them. I carefully closed the settee back, and marked the location of the ball portion of the latch. I did this about three times to be sure I had everything lined up properly. Once I was satisfied, I screwed the remaining half of the fasteners in place. I installed two on each setee back, more or less in the corners.
Good Luck,
Tony





ajeske@ixpres.com

[Neil Gordon]

The doors on LIQUIDITY are held open by hooks and eyes. There's not much play; while there's some movement, there's nothing I'd describe as banging.

By the way, to avoid even that motion, I usually sail with the doors closed. Among other things, keeping the door to the v-berth closed keeps the duffels stored on the cabin sole firmly wedged in place.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



cdory28@aol.com