Hand Signals When Anchoring
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Hand Signals When Anchoring
Since anchoring techniques seem to be the "subject du jour" lately, let me pick my more experienced CD captains' brains. In the past, my anchoring experience involved only small boats. You pretty much dropped the hook, let out appropriate scope, and you were off to the beer cooler in short order. My CD27 is more formatable and as many suggested hand signals should be used for various reasons. My wife and I don't communicate that well about nautical subjects even when using the King's English ( or Brooklyn English which is more akin to our tongue) so I really want some fool proof hand signals so there is no mistaking intentions when dropping the hook at dusk when the light is low or when the engine and wind make voice communication impossible. Everyone suggests using your own signals but surely somewhere in the nautical archives there are suggested hand signals. I think signals using fingers may be too small to see in reduced light so I suppose I'm looking for some unmistakable gross movements. What's your opinion?
Warren
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Setsail728@aol.com
Warren
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Setsail728@aol.com
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring
My husband and I are new to sailboat ownership and we use walkie talkies. they clip on the belt or whereever and he directs me from the bow while I am on the helm. We haven't tried handsignals yet because the walkie talkies work very well.
budda@grolen.com
budda@grolen.com
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring
Hi Warren..
Since I am not married I have a number of totally inexperienced crew members. Setting the anchor is easy and I accomplish it myself. Retreving it is another situation. I have developed the following system of signals which work great... and can be taught to almost anyone in seconds.
All is done with the engine at idle speed... important. I go forward and raise the anchor and signal the helmsperson with hand signals. Voice commands are useless since they can't be heard over the engine and wind noise.
My transmission works from a horrizontal lever. Up is forward and center is neutral. Down is reverse. I signal with one hand thumb up for transmission lever up (forward). Fist is for transmission in neutral. Thumb down is transmission lever down (reverse).
I direct steering with my finger. Pointing either port or starboard for the direction.
I give signals so that the bow of the boat runs up the anchor rode and over the anchor position. My Bruce has usually come up easily when the rode is directly over it. Once in a while I fall back and cleat it off for an extra tug.
If the anchorage is tight I direct the helmsperson to travel slowly in a predetermined direction until I secure the anchor. Then I go back and take over. It works well with even the most novice and best of all I dont have to yell...
Good luck.. Boyd
Since anchoring techniques seem to be the "subject du jour" lately, let me pick my more experienced CD captains' brains. In the past, my anchoring experience involved only small boats. You pretty much dropped the hook, let out appropriate scope, and you were off to the beer cooler in short order. My CD27 is more formatable and as many suggested hand signals should be used for various reasons. My wife and I don't communicate that well about nautical subjects even when using the King's English ( or Brooklyn English which is more akin to our tongue) so I really want some fool proof hand signals so there is no mistaking intentions when dropping the hook at dusk when the light is low or when the engine and wind make voice communication impossible. Everyone suggests using your own signals but surely somewhere in the nautical archives there are suggested hand signals. I think signals using fingers may be too small to see in reduced light so I suppose I'm looking for some unmistakable gross movements. What's your opinion?
Tern30@aol.com
Since I am not married I have a number of totally inexperienced crew members. Setting the anchor is easy and I accomplish it myself. Retreving it is another situation. I have developed the following system of signals which work great... and can be taught to almost anyone in seconds.
All is done with the engine at idle speed... important. I go forward and raise the anchor and signal the helmsperson with hand signals. Voice commands are useless since they can't be heard over the engine and wind noise.
My transmission works from a horrizontal lever. Up is forward and center is neutral. Down is reverse. I signal with one hand thumb up for transmission lever up (forward). Fist is for transmission in neutral. Thumb down is transmission lever down (reverse).
I direct steering with my finger. Pointing either port or starboard for the direction.
I give signals so that the bow of the boat runs up the anchor rode and over the anchor position. My Bruce has usually come up easily when the rode is directly over it. Once in a while I fall back and cleat it off for an extra tug.
If the anchorage is tight I direct the helmsperson to travel slowly in a predetermined direction until I secure the anchor. Then I go back and take over. It works well with even the most novice and best of all I dont have to yell...
Good luck.. Boyd
Since anchoring techniques seem to be the "subject du jour" lately, let me pick my more experienced CD captains' brains. In the past, my anchoring experience involved only small boats. You pretty much dropped the hook, let out appropriate scope, and you were off to the beer cooler in short order. My CD27 is more formatable and as many suggested hand signals should be used for various reasons. My wife and I don't communicate that well about nautical subjects even when using the King's English ( or Brooklyn English which is more akin to our tongue) so I really want some fool proof hand signals so there is no mistaking intentions when dropping the hook at dusk when the light is low or when the engine and wind make voice communication impossible. Everyone suggests using your own signals but surely somewhere in the nautical archives there are suggested hand signals. I think signals using fingers may be too small to see in reduced light so I suppose I'm looking for some unmistakable gross movements. What's your opinion?
Warren Kaplan wrote: Warren
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Tern30@aol.com
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring
Some of these family radios have "hands free" speaker/mike options which could be very handy in an anchoring situation.
I like the methodology and hand signals suggested by Boyd. It seems as if one of the mags had an article on this. I'll try to find it in my spare time...
Ken
parfait@nc.rr.com
I like the methodology and hand signals suggested by Boyd. It seems as if one of the mags had an article on this. I'll try to find it in my spare time...
Ken
Joan wrote: My husband and I are new to sailboat ownership and we use walkie talkies. they clip on the belt or whereever and he directs me from the bow while I am on the helm. We haven't tried handsignals yet because the walkie talkies work very well.
parfait@nc.rr.com
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring
Warren and all,
Jan and I started out using a voice activated mike system, but found that the wind on the mikes oftentimes triggered the mike, making comms impossible, since only one can talk at a time. So we developed hand signals to do the work, and backed it up with the mike system, until it was not needed anymore. That was 8 years ago that we stopped using the mikes (still have them though).
The signals we use for anchoring (which Jan usually does);
I scope out the anchorage's bottom and how fast it shoals by running slowly into shore at right angles to shore, until the 12-15 ft. level is found, where I turn to parallel the shoreline, and slowly move inwards to find the 10ft. point. Once found, we turn sharply outwards, using a strong engine burst, which creates a swirl in the water, as you turn. This swirl is our short-lived 10 ft. depth marker and serves as a visual reference as you move outwards to allow for your anchors scope length from the 10 ft. mark.
Nearing the spot that seems about 120 ft. from our 'water mark', I tell Jan "Ready", and she then gets the CQR ready to dropoff the bow sprit, by pushing it forward, and tilting it partialy up, while holding the chain. At the same time, I am applying reverse to stop the boat, and begin to reverse her path. Once movement in reverse starts, I tell Jan to "Drop". She then slowly drops the anchor, and feeds chain to it as it sinks. Ideally, the anchor should hit the bottom, and the chain should fall in a line away from the anchor, not on top of the anchor, as it could easily foul.
We back, and she will snub the anchor rode occasionally should conditions warrant it, which swings the bow back into line with the anchor, and wind. Once the rode is deployed fully, she cleats the rode, and puts both hands up so I can see them. This indicates that her hands are free of the rode, and I can go ahead and set the anchor with the engine. I put the engine in reverse and slowly ramp up to about full power, while she places a hand on the rode as it enters the bowsprit..or a foot if standing. The idea is to feel the rode for the vibrations caused by a dragging anchor or bouncing off rocks etc.
Pulling anchor is similar. I pull the anchor, while Jan steers the boat. I use my right arm, raised slightly overhead, kind of in a chopping motion. The direction of the action points to where I want her to steer the boat. To change speed or get reverse, I place my right arm straight out on the starboard side of the boat and use thumbs up for increase, down for decrease, and a closing fist to indicate a stop (which means reversing the transmission to the opposite direction, and then providing enough power to stop the boats movement in either direction).
These simple signals are easily seen in rain, snow, fog and at night with a flashlight trained on my right shoulder by Jan. We have tried them in each condition more often than we want to remember.
I encourage you adopt your own signals that make sense, to practice them each and every time you go out and anchor, and to not change them once they are agreed upon, so that they will become memorized and normal in your anchoring and pulling anchor routines.
The time may come when you will need to pull anchor at night, or in an emergency, and the more that is committed to memory and therefore automatic, the better (less to have to think about and piece together). This is the secret to safe sailing at night especially. Each function that has to be done on board while sailing, ie; coiling lines for storing on the mast, cleating halyards, routing sheets, hoising sails, reefing, anchoring and pulling anchor..etc. should be practiced in the same way each time. This has the advantage of making the job into a memorized task, but also the other crew become familiar with your movements while doing the task, and will notice anything out of the ordinary happening. This then allows for a faster response to the problem, should that be needed.
For instance, I can tell by Jan's shoulders if the darn anchor rode thimble is jambed in the the chain pipe, and I will need to stop reversing, or by the unconscious shake of her head as we are streaming rode out, and trying to set it on a hard pan clay bottom, that the anchor is jumping out of it's set when we add more power to set it..gotta let out more rode and reset it.
All of that is communicated in a few seconds, no words OR hand sigs were exchanged. What allowed this communicatioin is a familiarity with what should be happening vs. what is happening. You get that by doing the work the same way each time.
Good Sailing!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sailing Lake Superior~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
demers@sgi.com
Jan and I started out using a voice activated mike system, but found that the wind on the mikes oftentimes triggered the mike, making comms impossible, since only one can talk at a time. So we developed hand signals to do the work, and backed it up with the mike system, until it was not needed anymore. That was 8 years ago that we stopped using the mikes (still have them though).
The signals we use for anchoring (which Jan usually does);
I scope out the anchorage's bottom and how fast it shoals by running slowly into shore at right angles to shore, until the 12-15 ft. level is found, where I turn to parallel the shoreline, and slowly move inwards to find the 10ft. point. Once found, we turn sharply outwards, using a strong engine burst, which creates a swirl in the water, as you turn. This swirl is our short-lived 10 ft. depth marker and serves as a visual reference as you move outwards to allow for your anchors scope length from the 10 ft. mark.
Nearing the spot that seems about 120 ft. from our 'water mark', I tell Jan "Ready", and she then gets the CQR ready to dropoff the bow sprit, by pushing it forward, and tilting it partialy up, while holding the chain. At the same time, I am applying reverse to stop the boat, and begin to reverse her path. Once movement in reverse starts, I tell Jan to "Drop". She then slowly drops the anchor, and feeds chain to it as it sinks. Ideally, the anchor should hit the bottom, and the chain should fall in a line away from the anchor, not on top of the anchor, as it could easily foul.
We back, and she will snub the anchor rode occasionally should conditions warrant it, which swings the bow back into line with the anchor, and wind. Once the rode is deployed fully, she cleats the rode, and puts both hands up so I can see them. This indicates that her hands are free of the rode, and I can go ahead and set the anchor with the engine. I put the engine in reverse and slowly ramp up to about full power, while she places a hand on the rode as it enters the bowsprit..or a foot if standing. The idea is to feel the rode for the vibrations caused by a dragging anchor or bouncing off rocks etc.
Pulling anchor is similar. I pull the anchor, while Jan steers the boat. I use my right arm, raised slightly overhead, kind of in a chopping motion. The direction of the action points to where I want her to steer the boat. To change speed or get reverse, I place my right arm straight out on the starboard side of the boat and use thumbs up for increase, down for decrease, and a closing fist to indicate a stop (which means reversing the transmission to the opposite direction, and then providing enough power to stop the boats movement in either direction).
These simple signals are easily seen in rain, snow, fog and at night with a flashlight trained on my right shoulder by Jan. We have tried them in each condition more often than we want to remember.
I encourage you adopt your own signals that make sense, to practice them each and every time you go out and anchor, and to not change them once they are agreed upon, so that they will become memorized and normal in your anchoring and pulling anchor routines.
The time may come when you will need to pull anchor at night, or in an emergency, and the more that is committed to memory and therefore automatic, the better (less to have to think about and piece together). This is the secret to safe sailing at night especially. Each function that has to be done on board while sailing, ie; coiling lines for storing on the mast, cleating halyards, routing sheets, hoising sails, reefing, anchoring and pulling anchor..etc. should be practiced in the same way each time. This has the advantage of making the job into a memorized task, but also the other crew become familiar with your movements while doing the task, and will notice anything out of the ordinary happening. This then allows for a faster response to the problem, should that be needed.
For instance, I can tell by Jan's shoulders if the darn anchor rode thimble is jambed in the the chain pipe, and I will need to stop reversing, or by the unconscious shake of her head as we are streaming rode out, and trying to set it on a hard pan clay bottom, that the anchor is jumping out of it's set when we add more power to set it..gotta let out more rode and reset it.
All of that is communicated in a few seconds, no words OR hand sigs were exchanged. What allowed this communicatioin is a familiarity with what should be happening vs. what is happening. You get that by doing the work the same way each time.
Good Sailing!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sailing Lake Superior~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Warren Kaplan wrote: Since anchoring techniques seem to be the "subject du jour" lately, let me pick my more experienced CD captains' brains. In the past, my anchoring experience involved only small boats. You pretty much dropped the hook, let out appropriate scope, and you were off to the beer cooler in short order. My CD27 is more formatable and as many suggested hand signals should be used for various reasons. My wife and I don't communicate that well about nautical subjects even when using the King's English ( or Brooklyn English which is more akin to our tongue) so I really want some fool proof hand signals so there is no mistaking intentions when dropping the hook at dusk when the light is low or when the engine and wind make voice communication impossible. Everyone suggests using your own signals but surely somewhere in the nautical archives there are suggested hand signals. I think signals using fingers may be too small to see in reduced light so I suppose I'm looking for some unmistakable gross movements. What's your opinion?
Warren
Sine Qua Non
CD27
demers@sgi.com
AFTER 50,000 MILES by Hal Roth
Hal Roth in his excellent book AFTER 50,000 MILES has an excellent chapter on anchoring and anchors that you may want to review.Warren Kaplan wrote: Since anchoring techniques seem to be the "subject du jour" lately, let me pick my more experienced CD captains' brains. In the past, my anchoring experience involved only small boats. You pretty much dropped the hook, let out appropriate scope, and you were off to the beer cooler in short order. My CD27 is more formatable and as many suggested hand signals should be used for various reasons. My wife and I don't communicate that well about nautical subjects even when using the King's English ( or Brooklyn English which is more akin to our tongue) so I really want some fool proof hand signals so there is no mistaking intentions when dropping the hook at dusk when the light is low or when the engine and wind make voice communication impossible. Everyone suggests using your own signals but surely somewhere in the nautical archives there are suggested hand signals. I think signals using fingers may be too small to see in reduced light so I suppose I'm looking for some unmistakable gross movements. What's your opinion?
Warren
Sine Qua Non
CD27
thekirby5@aol.com
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring
Dont eve try the hand-helds to commuicate. Even w/ them, wind/engine noise can easily drown the speaker and could also trigger the mike. Well ahead of time, work out SIMPLE, CLEAR (from a distance) hand signals and practice time w/ those involved. They should be clear enough that someone not privy to your "code" could quickly figure them out. Ideas of what to use are in many of the boat books (maybe Chapmans???). Signals for direction, speed up, slow down, stop, hold, increase/decrease engine RPM's approx. distance, along w/ ready should be about what you need. One hint, is for the anchor person to keep "talking" to the helms person, as they dont know what is going on and can be clueless and starting to get anxious and uptight. These have served well when Goldsmith family (Second Chance) and my family have chartered in the Caribbean on 50+ foot monohull's and cats in tight anchorages.
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring--Downside
True Confessions:
If everyone used hand signals, a major source of my amusement--afloat--would vanish. Who won't admit to the occasional smile (smirk really) when witnessing a self proclaimed Admiral shouting conflicting commands to a confused foredeckman (or woman). "Throw in the anchor!" has allowed us to watch someone literally throw an anchor & chain as far as they could. It barely cleared the pulpit.
Of course sometimes the language becomes unsuitable for tender ears, to the consternation of an entire anchorage.
Anchoring can be tough on relationships. If you value yours, develop a civil plan (silent or not) to deploy & retrieve the anchor, and PLEASE don't allow an 80 pound person to hand haul a 45lb anchor and chain rode (while bitching that they need to hurry).
We use hand signals on RESPITE.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
If everyone used hand signals, a major source of my amusement--afloat--would vanish. Who won't admit to the occasional smile (smirk really) when witnessing a self proclaimed Admiral shouting conflicting commands to a confused foredeckman (or woman). "Throw in the anchor!" has allowed us to watch someone literally throw an anchor & chain as far as they could. It barely cleared the pulpit.
Of course sometimes the language becomes unsuitable for tender ears, to the consternation of an entire anchorage.
Anchoring can be tough on relationships. If you value yours, develop a civil plan (silent or not) to deploy & retrieve the anchor, and PLEASE don't allow an 80 pound person to hand haul a 45lb anchor and chain rode (while bitching that they need to hurry).
We use hand signals on RESPITE.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
Re: Hand Signals When Anchoring--Downside
Mitchell,
I am reminded on the Arizona Yacht Club skipper who used to yell at his crew from the time they arrived at dry storage until they returned from a day of racing. One day, after a lot of yelling on the race course by this skipper, a friend who only had one functional arm and usually raced a Thistle single handed (literally and figuratively) began to mimic the arrogant skipper well within his range: "C'mon Charlie, get that sail set right! Lets go Charlie, get your thumb out of your mouth." As this sort of mimicing went on, it became more and more quiet on the offensive boat. I hope that the skipper's son and the other crew eventually learned to like sailing, but it had to be touch and go for several years.
Ken
CD/36 Parfait
Raleigh, NC
parfait@nc.rr.com
I am reminded on the Arizona Yacht Club skipper who used to yell at his crew from the time they arrived at dry storage until they returned from a day of racing. One day, after a lot of yelling on the race course by this skipper, a friend who only had one functional arm and usually raced a Thistle single handed (literally and figuratively) began to mimic the arrogant skipper well within his range: "C'mon Charlie, get that sail set right! Lets go Charlie, get your thumb out of your mouth." As this sort of mimicing went on, it became more and more quiet on the offensive boat. I hope that the skipper's son and the other crew eventually learned to like sailing, but it had to be touch and go for several years.
Ken
CD/36 Parfait
Raleigh, NC
M. R. Bober wrote: True Confessions:
If everyone used hand signals, a major source of my amusement--afloat--would vanish. Who won't admit to the occasional smile (smirk really) when witnessing a self proclaimed Admiral shouting conflicting commands to a confused foredeckman (or woman). "Throw in the anchor!" has allowed us to watch someone literally throw an anchor & chain as far as they could. It barely cleared the pulpit.
Of course sometimes the language becomes unsuitable for tender ears, to the consternation of an entire anchorage.
Anchoring can be tough on relationships. If you value yours, develop a civil plan (silent or not) to deploy & retrieve the anchor, and PLEASE don't allow an 80 pound person to hand haul a 45lb anchor and chain rode (while bitching that they need to hurry).
We use hand signals on RESPITE.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
parfait@nc.rr.com