A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
jlreizian@snet.net
ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bill
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
John
I suspect that steam would work, but I have no idea on how to do that.....Never fear....someone will have the answer.
bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
I suspect that steam would work, but I have no idea on how to do that.....Never fear....someone will have the answer.
bill
John L. Reizian wrote: A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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Will W.
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
Mine did the same thing. I took them off to apply Cetol and had them off for about two weeks. When I went to put them back I was faced with the situation you describe. All I did was start with the aft most screw and then slowly added screws as I could until all were in and snug. It did require effort but so far no dead crewmembers. Will
willwheatley@starpower.net
John L. Reizian wrote: A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
willwheatley@starpower.net
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Greg Lutzow
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
John;
If you haven't varnished your boards yet steaming is the answer. They are of a handy size and will fit readily into a steam box of not too great a dimension. After they are mounted, give them several days to dry out before sealing and varnishing.
If they are already varnished I'm afraid brute force is the answer, though I wouldn't care to do it this way. There is always the chance that a board will stress or crack.
Perhaps there is someone out there who has a realistic approach to doing this dry without the chance of damage to the boards.
good Luck
Greg
CEFALU III
nms_inc@mindspringc.om
If you haven't varnished your boards yet steaming is the answer. They are of a handy size and will fit readily into a steam box of not too great a dimension. After they are mounted, give them several days to dry out before sealing and varnishing.
If they are already varnished I'm afraid brute force is the answer, though I wouldn't care to do it this way. There is always the chance that a board will stress or crack.
Perhaps there is someone out there who has a realistic approach to doing this dry without the chance of damage to the boards.
good Luck
Greg
CEFALU III
nms_inc@mindspringc.om
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Larry DeMers
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
While steam bending would be the obvious first choice in this case, making a box that would hold these boards is not trivial, nor is the process of generating steam for the box. I built a steam box using an old wter heater core and burner, but this was for small 3/4in. x 1 in. white oak ribs in a wood C-Scow. For coaming boards, you need a wider and longer box, and a pretty powerful burner to get enough steam going.
Another option would be to place kerf cuts in the back of the board, in the horizontal area of greatest bend. These kerf cuts are slits cut about 1/2 the way through the back of the board horizontally, allowing the board to bend, compressing the back wood, which closes the kerf cuts somewhat. The complication here is the edge treatment of the boards, so the kerf cuts are not showing. One approach would be to cut the kerf cuts within an inch of the edge and stop. Then I would route out a clearance between the uncut area on the edge and the kerf cut area, so that bending will not crack the outer edge where there are no kerf cuts. This is a crude way to do it of course. At a minimum, I would precoat the entire back, in between
the kerf cuts, with epoxy resin to seal it off from moisture.
The thing I worry about with the brute force method is that the wood will eventually show some splits and cracks as it ages over time. Yet, all of the coamings on CD's are applied directly to the fiberglass without steaming or adding kerf cuts. I do not believe our CD30's coamings are curved however..at least not to any great extent.
Good Luck,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Another option would be to place kerf cuts in the back of the board, in the horizontal area of greatest bend. These kerf cuts are slits cut about 1/2 the way through the back of the board horizontally, allowing the board to bend, compressing the back wood, which closes the kerf cuts somewhat. The complication here is the edge treatment of the boards, so the kerf cuts are not showing. One approach would be to cut the kerf cuts within an inch of the edge and stop. Then I would route out a clearance between the uncut area on the edge and the kerf cut area, so that bending will not crack the outer edge where there are no kerf cuts. This is a crude way to do it of course. At a minimum, I would precoat the entire back, in between
the kerf cuts, with epoxy resin to seal it off from moisture.
The thing I worry about with the brute force method is that the wood will eventually show some splits and cracks as it ages over time. Yet, all of the coamings on CD's are applied directly to the fiberglass without steaming or adding kerf cuts. I do not believe our CD30's coamings are curved however..at least not to any great extent.
Good Luck,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
John L. Reizian wrote: A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
demers@sgi.com
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Ben Thomas
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
John, I just replaced my coamings last year. (cd30)I used a thicker board than the orginal(new ones are 7/8" of an inch thick) with another 7/8" strip attached from cleat aft making it easier to sit on.
I foresaw the curve problem with the boards, This was over the winter so sailing was at a minimum here so pressure to finish was not high. The added 7/8x7/8 strip did not help the bending at all.
This is what I did. I set the two finished boards on two saw horses equadistance on each end and with the appropriate side up for gravity to work its magic. I then placed equal weights per board on each board, heavy ones in the deepest set of curve, lighter weights outward till I duplicated and exagerated the curve taken from the old board This seemed really primitive and I had my doubts. But it worked quite well, all total there were 185lbs on each board. they sat there for two weeks. they did retain some memory of previous state, but they also retained the curve as well.When I applied pressure down into curve they gave way much easier than when flipped over and pressed against the curve.
attaching the boards single handed I utilized three 2x4s cut to appropriate lenghts padded the ends to protect finish, lined the rebedded screw holes up with boards and slipped 2x4s into place with gentle tap of hand moved forward and repeated two times. Set Screws and bungs at leisure, released 2x4s, taped and chalked. the boards haven't budged. even after several 200 plus pounders sitting on them.
Good Luck Ben
btlandscapers@imagina.com
I foresaw the curve problem with the boards, This was over the winter so sailing was at a minimum here so pressure to finish was not high. The added 7/8x7/8 strip did not help the bending at all.
This is what I did. I set the two finished boards on two saw horses equadistance on each end and with the appropriate side up for gravity to work its magic. I then placed equal weights per board on each board, heavy ones in the deepest set of curve, lighter weights outward till I duplicated and exagerated the curve taken from the old board This seemed really primitive and I had my doubts. But it worked quite well, all total there were 185lbs on each board. they sat there for two weeks. they did retain some memory of previous state, but they also retained the curve as well.When I applied pressure down into curve they gave way much easier than when flipped over and pressed against the curve.
attaching the boards single handed I utilized three 2x4s cut to appropriate lenghts padded the ends to protect finish, lined the rebedded screw holes up with boards and slipped 2x4s into place with gentle tap of hand moved forward and repeated two times. Set Screws and bungs at leisure, released 2x4s, taped and chalked. the boards haven't budged. even after several 200 plus pounders sitting on them.
Good Luck Ben
btlandscapers@imagina.com
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Stuart
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
Likewise. I had my girlfriend lean against the board, and I started at the aft end and worked my way to the cabin. The boards showed no signs of cracking or stress (they were varnished).
Stuart
S/V Yankee Cowboy
Mine did the same thing. I took them off to apply Cetol and had them off for about two weeks. When I went to put them back I was faced with the situation you describe. All I did was start with the aft most screw and then slowly added screws as I could until all were in and snug. It did require effort but so far no dead crewmembers. Will
st1975@yahoo.com
Stuart
S/V Yankee Cowboy
Mine did the same thing. I took them off to apply Cetol and had them off for about two weeks. When I went to put them back I was faced with the situation you describe. All I did was start with the aft most screw and then slowly added screws as I could until all were in and snug. It did require effort but so far no dead crewmembers. Will
Will W. wrote:John L. Reizian wrote: A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
st1975@yahoo.com
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
As previously noted, the factory did apparently install the coamings using the brute force method, so there is no reason (except prehaps age) to believe it will damage the boards or pull out.
You may want to fill the screwholes with epoxy and redrill pilot holes for the screws, and use new screws. This will ensure a really good bite.
Good luck,
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
You may want to fill the screwholes with epoxy and redrill pilot holes for the screws, and use new screws. This will ensure a really good bite.
Good luck,
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance
John L. Reizian wrote: A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
goldy@bestweb.net
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Bob Chamberland
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
SOMEbody should've warned me! Yours in deep frustration.
John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
Thank you John, I am warned. I have just removed my coamings and after your message went out to look. Looks straighter to me. I have them blocked now like I used to do with my old wooden skis. Clamped the ends together and blocked the center to hold the curve. I hope that will work.
Bob Chamberland
cha62759@traverse.co
John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
Thank you John, I am warned. I have just removed my coamings and after your message went out to look. Looks straighter to me. I have them blocked now like I used to do with my old wooden skis. Clamped the ends together and blocked the center to hold the curve. I hope that will work.
Bob Chamberland
cha62759@traverse.co
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Joe Cioffi
Re: ARRRGH!!!! They've gone "straight"!
Hello John,John L. Reizian wrote: A short while ago I posted a question about remounting the coaming boards, how much adhesive to use and where to apply it. Well, forget all that. SOMEbody should've warned me! (Just kidding.) My coaming boards have gone "straight" and don't follow the curve of the cockpit sides without me applying a tremendous amount of pressure to spring them into shape. I'm afraid that forcing it to follow the curve will merely result in the screws being shot across the cockpit killing me or my sailing partner. Assuming I'm not the first dolt to be faced with this conundrum, I'd appreciate any insights with respect to re-installing the curve in the boards. Right now I'm thinking of using spreaders or 2x4's with each end braced across the cockpit against the opposite coaming board. Any ideas?
Yours in deep frustration. John, s/v "Star" (CD25)
I did not realize this question was you the same person that asked about what kind of bedding to use you will find it under your frequest for bedding.Now about the straightness you will not harm or split the wood eespecially if it was there in place once.I replaced our boards with new and being new quite sure the thickness was more then replacing with the orginals.And have sailed already across to the Bahamas and back sloshed around and guess what the boards did not split. Hope I helped Joe
ps what kind of bedding did you go with
jgc2@prodigy.net