Rebedding coaming boards

[John L. Reizian]

I recently removed the coaming boards and several other pieces of teak from my CD25. In anticipation of remounting them, I am questioning where to apply adhesive (e.g. 3M's 4200). Excluding the extreme ends of the boards (which will get a full dose), my choices seem to be: (1) "butter" the whole back side of the board where it meets/mates with the deck; (2) apply only to areas covering and immediately around the mounting holes for the mechanical fasteners; or (3) same as number 2 but also apply a bead at the joint between the boards and the deck (to keep the sea and "stuff" from entering the cockpit from behind the boards. The previous application seemed to be haphazard. Which way is best?

Your kind advices would be greatly appreciated.

John, s/v CD25 "Star"



jlreizian@snet.neet

[JB]

I also have the same question. I just last week removed all the wood from my Typhoon. I have about 6 of the 8 coats of Epifanes on the wood and then i will remount the wood. When i removed the the wood from the boat, there was no bedding compound at all. So i thought that i would just compound the screw holes. But now you have me wondering as well whether or not to bed the entire piece? What would be the reasoning? Do you really get that much water into the cockpit that would come through the coamings?



Bonahooms@excite.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

On my 27 the coamings are not bedded at all. They are mounted with bunged screws only, and sealed with silicone along the outside where the deck touches the coaming. Some of my silicone has deteriorated and I have been getting alot of deckwash spilling down behind the coamings causing wet derrieres. I will be recaulking with silicone. You might want to consider lifecaulk as well, but I would avoid using an adhesive like 4200. It will just make for unneccessary work the next time you want to remove them. You don't really need an adhesive here--just a caulk.

Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance

I recently removed the coaming boards and several other pieces of teak from my CD25. In anticipation of remounting them, I am questioning where to apply adhesive (e.g. 3M's 4200). Excluding the extreme ends of the boards (which will get a full dose), my choices seem to be: (1) "butter" the whole back side of the board where it meets/mates with the deck; (2) apply only to areas covering and immediately around the mounting holes for the mechanical fasteners; or (3) same as number 2 but also apply a bead at the joint between the boards and the deck (to keep the sea and "stuff" from entering the cockpit from behind the boards. The previous application seemed to be haphazard. Which way is best?

Your kind advices would be greatly appreciated.

John, s/v CD25 "Star"

goldy@bestweb.net

[Robin Meigel]

I followed the advice of a staff member at Fawcett's Boat Supply in Annapolis - I "buttered" the coaming where it meets the gelcoat with Dolphin bedding compound after applying the first one or two coats of Armada. After the board was re-fastened, I applied a ribbon of lifecaulk at the upper edge and I reapply a ribbon of life caulk annually. So far it has worked well.

Robin Meigel
"Pacem"
CD 27



Robin.Meigel@alumnae.brynmawr.edu

[James Kimbrel]

I just took the bungs and screws out of the coamings on my Seasprite 23 today. I was surprised that of all the teak on the boat that I have removed, the coamings seem to be bedded very well. I still do not have them off. It is probably going to take prying with a flat blade (paint scraper) to get them off. Everything else fell off when I removed the screws. There were only about 7 screws holding the coaming on, so it is possible that the caulk (glue?)was to help hold it on.

By the way, I am doing a complete renovation of my boat, top to bottom. I hope to have it back in the water this fall for the beginnig of the Florida sailing season. I personally think it is too hot to be on the water in the summer, but in the winter with temps down to the low 40's most nights and highs in the low 60's, it is perfect sailing weather (except when it rains).

I recently removed the coaming boards and several other pieces of teak from my CD25. In anticipation of remounting them, I am questioning where to apply adhesive (e.g. 3M's 4200). Excluding the extreme ends of the boards (which will get a full dose), my choices seem to be: (1) "butter" the whole back side of the board where it meets/mates with the deck; (2) apply only to areas covering and immediately around the mounting holes for the mechanical fasteners; or (3) same as number 2 but also apply a bead at the joint between the boards and the deck (to keep the sea and "stuff" from entering the cockpit from behind the boards. The previous application seemed to be haphazard. Which way is best?

Your kind advices would be greatly appreciated.

John, s/v CD25 "Star"

jameskimbrel@hotmail.com

[Stuart Thomas]

I also just recently removed my coaming boards on my CD25 and here are my thoughts and observations: When I removed the boards, one was "buttered" on the back side with a crapload of 5200, while the other board had only a small bead of adhesive along the top where the board meets the gelcoat. The piece that was "buttered" had all kinds of crap behind the board (in the places there was no sealant) and really stained the wood. The piece with the top bead was very clean. Since no one will see the wood against the gelcoat (except you when you varnish it) the only thing I can think of is that the less water and dirt that makes it way between the board and gelcoat, the better. It would only act as an abrasive and destroy your varnish and gelcoat. I planned on using 5200 with a bead along the top to seal my boards, but the mention of using a sealant only is a good idea. After all, the screws will take the load, not a thin strip of adhesive.

Stuart
S/V Yankee Cowboy

I recently removed the coaming boards and several other pieces of teak from my CD25. In anticipation of remounting them, I am questioning where to apply adhesive (e.g. 3M's 4200). Excluding the extreme ends of the boards (which will get a full dose), my choices seem to be: (1) "butter" the whole back side of the board where it meets/mates with the deck; (2) apply only to areas covering and immediately around the mounting holes for the mechanical fasteners; or (3) same as number 2 but also apply a bead at the joint between the boards and the deck (to keep the sea and "stuff" from entering the cockpit from behind the boards. The previous application seemed to be haphazard. Which way is best?

Your kind advices would be greatly appreciated.

John, s/v CD25 "Star"

st1975@yahoo.com

[Ben Thomas]

Stuart, I replaced the coamings on my cd 30 last winter with thicker teak. the starboard board came right off. with life chalk along top seam. I rebedded with dolphinite. and resealed top seam with teak colored life chalk. the port board was attached with the customary screws along with an excess of 5200. the board came off with a chisel and hammer the teak the size of toothpicks and if I was lucky maybe a bigger strip. cleaning the gelcoat after was a chore in itself.

Do Not Use 5200 to attach coaming boards. the screws properly bedded will work.
Good luck Ben



btlandscapers@imagina.com

[Joe]

I recently removed the coaming boards and several other pieces of teak from my CD25. In anticipation of remounting them, I am questioning where to apply adhesive (e.g. 3M's 4200). Excluding the extreme ends of the boards (which will get a full dose), my choices seem to be: (1) "butter" the whole back side of the board where it meets/mates with the deck; (2) apply only to areas covering and immediately around the mounting holes for the mechanical fasteners; or (3) same as number 2 but also apply a bead at the joint between the boards and the deck (to keep the sea and "stuff" from entering the cockpit from behind the boards. The previous application seemed to be haphazard. Which way is best?

Your kind advices would be greatly appreciated.

John, s/v CD25 "Star"

Hey John ,

Just got done refitting our cd22 every piece of teak in and out was repleased new and if i am not mistaken we have the same kind of coaming boards.I work in the marine industry and seen every way to install the boards and the only bad thing about 5200 and life chaulk is they have no uv protectionand if you deside to bed it until it fulls were it meets the edge of the deck it will be in the sun.They have a product called Silproof spelling is off but that is what its called.It comes in a few differnt colors including teak and mahogany.Many of the big boat yards here in florida use it.Hope that I helped.

Joe



jgc2@prodigy.net