Finally got the tank connected to the lines so the system holds pressure. Tried to light the burners and almost started a fire. Any tips on how this thing works? The right burner seemed to work correctly and when I finally turned it off after running it for about 15 minutes, it wouldn't go out until I doused it with a little water. I guess I need a lesson in using the stove - getting it going and turning it off. Pressure?
Help?
Thanks in advance.
Michael Soloway
"Puffin" CD31 #60
m@msoloway.com
alcohol stove operation
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: alcohol stove operation
Michael,
The operation of the stove takes a little finess, but is easily accomplished.
First, no more than 1 gallon of alcohol in the tank at any time.
Second, no more than 20 psi pressure on the tank, 15 lbs. will work just fine. Oh, to pressurize the tank, I use a bicycle pump I bought at Benny's for $2 that has a flexible tube connector.
Third, under each burner should be a wick, fiberglass, available from SeaWard, looks like a Tiki Tourch wick but is not.
To light a burner, go to a plumbing supply store, buy a squeeze bottle of "Snoop". It is a leak detection soap solution. Throw out the Snoop, and fill the bottle with alcohol. The bottle has an extendable tube used to get to tight places.
Squeeze some alcohol into the wick, stick the tube of the Snoope bottle into the center of the burner, 5 seconds works for me, can do this right from the top of the burner. Light the burner(I use a gas torch that is used for lighting a grill), and let burn almost out. It should not flare up on you, more than a little bit. Once the burner generator is pre-heated, turn on the burner valve slowly, if it sputters, you are still getting liquid alcohol not fumes(fumes ignite, liquid does NOT), pre-heat the burner some more.
Once lit, the generator will stay hot and the stove will burn like a gas stove. The 15 to 20 lbs pressure should hold until you run out of alcohol, it will then drop rapidly, refill the alcohol tank. If it doesn't hold the pressure, you have a leak.
Also, since you did a re-build, when a burner is lit, look at the shaft seal area, if there is a little flame there, it is leaking, tighten the packing nut a little(this is a real pain for the oven).
Alcohol stoves I think, are great. No gas to worry about, if you do get a fire, water will put it out right now, but they do take getting used to. There should never be a flame that lights the curtains on fire, a little pre-heat alcohol will do just fine.
Hope this helps you, good luck with your stove.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
The operation of the stove takes a little finess, but is easily accomplished.
First, no more than 1 gallon of alcohol in the tank at any time.
Second, no more than 20 psi pressure on the tank, 15 lbs. will work just fine. Oh, to pressurize the tank, I use a bicycle pump I bought at Benny's for $2 that has a flexible tube connector.
Third, under each burner should be a wick, fiberglass, available from SeaWard, looks like a Tiki Tourch wick but is not.
To light a burner, go to a plumbing supply store, buy a squeeze bottle of "Snoop". It is a leak detection soap solution. Throw out the Snoop, and fill the bottle with alcohol. The bottle has an extendable tube used to get to tight places.
Squeeze some alcohol into the wick, stick the tube of the Snoope bottle into the center of the burner, 5 seconds works for me, can do this right from the top of the burner. Light the burner(I use a gas torch that is used for lighting a grill), and let burn almost out. It should not flare up on you, more than a little bit. Once the burner generator is pre-heated, turn on the burner valve slowly, if it sputters, you are still getting liquid alcohol not fumes(fumes ignite, liquid does NOT), pre-heat the burner some more.
Once lit, the generator will stay hot and the stove will burn like a gas stove. The 15 to 20 lbs pressure should hold until you run out of alcohol, it will then drop rapidly, refill the alcohol tank. If it doesn't hold the pressure, you have a leak.
Also, since you did a re-build, when a burner is lit, look at the shaft seal area, if there is a little flame there, it is leaking, tighten the packing nut a little(this is a real pain for the oven).
Alcohol stoves I think, are great. No gas to worry about, if you do get a fire, water will put it out right now, but they do take getting used to. There should never be a flame that lights the curtains on fire, a little pre-heat alcohol will do just fine.
Hope this helps you, good luck with your stove.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
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michael soloway
Re: alcohol stove operation
Dave,
Thanks for the great info. Where exactly is the wick? When I turned off the right burner last night, something kept burning ans smoldering even with no alcohol flowing. I am beginning to see the advantages of the alcohol stove and I lovbed that when I caused a major flare-uop it could go out with water. Where are those nuts that need tightening. All of my re-building was at the tanke end.
Michael
m@msoloway.com
Thanks for the great info. Where exactly is the wick? When I turned off the right burner last night, something kept burning ans smoldering even with no alcohol flowing. I am beginning to see the advantages of the alcohol stove and I lovbed that when I caused a major flare-uop it could go out with water. Where are those nuts that need tightening. All of my re-building was at the tanke end.
Michael
m@msoloway.com
-
D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: alcohol stove operation
Captain Soloway,
The wick is underneath the burners, in a little pan, it is about 1/2 to 3/4 in. in diameter(the wick)and is bent back on itself in a "U" shape. They're cheap, but essential. Call SeaWard and order 3. If someone replaced the wicks with Tiki Torch wicks, that is probably what was smoldering. They MUST be fiberglass wicks.
The packing nuts are inside the top of the stove, follow the control knob shaft to were it goes into the valve body. The large nut you see is the packing nut, a small turn will tighten it up and stop any leak you may have there(takes two wrenches, one to hold valve body, other to adjust the nut), that is if the packing is good. This is not something that requires a lot or frequenty adjustment, so the packing is probably all right. By the way, this packing will NOT leak when the stove is shut off, only when you are using it.
Hey, if the burner pan supports are corroded or badly burnt, Seaward can supply them also, will make her look brandy new! And if the top is dirty or blackened by heat, a cup brush on an electric drill will buff it up like new(if the top of you stove is stainless steel).
Let me know if I can help some more....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
The wick is underneath the burners, in a little pan, it is about 1/2 to 3/4 in. in diameter(the wick)and is bent back on itself in a "U" shape. They're cheap, but essential. Call SeaWard and order 3. If someone replaced the wicks with Tiki Torch wicks, that is probably what was smoldering. They MUST be fiberglass wicks.
The packing nuts are inside the top of the stove, follow the control knob shaft to were it goes into the valve body. The large nut you see is the packing nut, a small turn will tighten it up and stop any leak you may have there(takes two wrenches, one to hold valve body, other to adjust the nut), that is if the packing is good. This is not something that requires a lot or frequenty adjustment, so the packing is probably all right. By the way, this packing will NOT leak when the stove is shut off, only when you are using it.
Hey, if the burner pan supports are corroded or badly burnt, Seaward can supply them also, will make her look brandy new! And if the top is dirty or blackened by heat, a cup brush on an electric drill will buff it up like new(if the top of you stove is stainless steel).
Let me know if I can help some more....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
-
John R.
Re: alcohol stove operation
You might want to consider swapping out for an Origo if you like the alcohol fuel. They burn hotter and are simple to use with no flare ups. They are not tempermental and there are no maintenance headaches such as with a pressurized alcohol stove.michael soloway wrote: Finally got the tank connected to the lines so the system holds pressure. Tried to light the burners and almost started a fire. Any tips on how this thing works? The right burner seemed to work correctly and when I finally turned it off after running it for about 15 minutes, it wouldn't go out until I doused it with a little water. I guess I need a lesson in using the stove - getting it going and turning it off. Pressure?
Help?
Thanks in advance.
Michael Soloway
"Puffin" CD31 #60
-
Chris Schnell
Re: alcohol stove operation
Michael,
Having heard too many stories about alcohol "flare ups" and replacing curtains, and recognizing that for the next few years all I intend to do is coastal cruising for a week at a time with my girlfriend, I removed the stove/oven completely and I'm in the process of installing a 12v Refridgerator in that spot, along with sufficient storage space to put my 2 burner coleman stove that uses the same bottles as my magma grill. This provides more cold space alot cheaper than refrigerating my icebox (upwards of $1k) and provides additional storage space as well. Merely a question of preferences on our part. Good luck.
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III CD30#235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net
Having heard too many stories about alcohol "flare ups" and replacing curtains, and recognizing that for the next few years all I intend to do is coastal cruising for a week at a time with my girlfriend, I removed the stove/oven completely and I'm in the process of installing a 12v Refridgerator in that spot, along with sufficient storage space to put my 2 burner coleman stove that uses the same bottles as my magma grill. This provides more cold space alot cheaper than refrigerating my icebox (upwards of $1k) and provides additional storage space as well. Merely a question of preferences on our part. Good luck.
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III CD30#235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net
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Gary McDonough
Re: alcohol stove operation
"I removed the stove/oven completely"
After two years of "fun" using the stove on my 30', I too decided to remove it. It wasn't just the flareups that got to me. If you properly prime the burners, it does reduce the problem. I just felt the stove was too much work to bother with. I installed an Origo two burner non-pressurized stove and was able to free up the oven space for additional valuable storage.
FWIW
Gary
garym@taxinvest.com
After two years of "fun" using the stove on my 30', I too decided to remove it. It wasn't just the flareups that got to me. If you properly prime the burners, it does reduce the problem. I just felt the stove was too much work to bother with. I installed an Origo two burner non-pressurized stove and was able to free up the oven space for additional valuable storage.
FWIW
Gary
garym@taxinvest.com
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Dave Potts
Re: alcohol stove operation
The original owner of my CD30 had gutted the stove and removed the burners but left the disabled oven in place, still attached via the gimbals. He had set two portable diesel burners in the stove compartment but I didn't like them. I already had a two burner Origo 3000 which, much to my delight, I found fit very nicely in the gutted stove compartment. The Origo swings neatly on the original oven gimbals and the old oven makes for convenient pots and pans storage immediately below.Gary McDonough wrote: After two years of "fun" using the stove on my 30', I too decided to remove it. ... I installed an Origo two burner non-pressurized stove and was able to free up the oven space for additional valuable storage.
FWIW
Gary
Dave
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Ann and David Brownlee
Re: alcohol stove operation
This winter we replaced our Kenyon pressure alcohol stove with an Origo stove/oven combination, currently only in the Defender catalogue. It's wonderful! (But expensive.) The burners are safe, easy-to-use and efficient, and the oven really works (once you calculate baking temperatures in centigrade). Since the stove is a little smaller than the Kenyon, we had to fabricate two teak mounting blocks onto which to attach the gimbals. Otherwise the installation was very easy--no hose, valve, pump, tank, etc.
Ann and David Brownlee
CD 31 #1 WINDRUSH
Havre de Grace, MD
abrownle@sas.upenn.edu
Ann and David Brownlee
CD 31 #1 WINDRUSH
Havre de Grace, MD
abrownle@sas.upenn.edu
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Michael Soloway
Re: alcohol stove operation
Dear Captain Stump
Thanks for all of your help with my stove. I think that I have it going properly now. I have some more questions if you don't mind.
What is the best way to de-pressurize the system after using it?
Must you depressurize it after each use?
Can you leave pressure on?
What is the best pressure you have found. I am having success with about 15 lbs.?
What is a good source of fuel? Where can I buy it?
Do you take apart the top to light the stove or leave it all assembled and just work through the hole?
When you turn off the burners after use, how are you sure it is all off?
In the fuel tank, in the cap that fits on the filler inlet, there is a little valve or something that seems to have an Allen Key opening in it. What is this all about?
Thanks,
Captain Michael Soloway
"Puffin"
CD 31 #60
m@msoloway.com
Thanks for all of your help with my stove. I think that I have it going properly now. I have some more questions if you don't mind.
What is the best way to de-pressurize the system after using it?
Must you depressurize it after each use?
Can you leave pressure on?
What is the best pressure you have found. I am having success with about 15 lbs.?
What is a good source of fuel? Where can I buy it?
Do you take apart the top to light the stove or leave it all assembled and just work through the hole?
When you turn off the burners after use, how are you sure it is all off?
In the fuel tank, in the cap that fits on the filler inlet, there is a little valve or something that seems to have an Allen Key opening in it. What is this all about?
Thanks,
Captain Michael Soloway
"Puffin"
CD 31 #60
m@msoloway.com