has anyone ever had to replace the alcohol container/tank for a
hillrange stove...original eqpt on my 1979 cd30c...i ctc manufacturer
and no joy...no longer available thru them...the lead they gave me got me nowhere...anyway im working on the old one made out of soft iron...lots of rust inside and dont think will be able to clean it out and all that rust and grit clogs the burners...this tank is 12 inches long and 6 inche in diameter holding about a gallon capacity..
having one made could be pricey...changing the old stove a possibility...maybe a new propane or cng unit...but i like the one i
have...anyway any suggestions are welcome...thanks/mike
compinchecd30@yahoo.com
alcohol stove tank
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John S.S
Re: alcohol stove tank
Galleymaid sells alcohol stove parts. e-mail gmaid@flite.netmike mascaros wrote: has anyone ever had to replace the alcohol container/tank for a
hillrange stove...original eqpt on my 1979 cd30c...i ctc manufacturer
and no joy...no longer available thru them...the lead they gave me got me nowhere...anyway im working on the old one made out of soft iron...lots of rust inside and dont think will be able to clean it out and all that rust and grit clogs the burners...this tank is 12 inches long and 6 inche in diameter holding about a gallon capacity..
having one made could be pricey...changing the old stove a possibility...maybe a new propane or cng unit...but i like the one i
have...anyway any suggestions are welcome...thanks/mike
sidney777@hotmail.com
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Joe Sankey
Re: alcohol stove tank
I just purchased a 1984 CD30 that came with a Hillerange stove. No doubt it was used lightly, but the survey showed a non functioning valve on the tank. I plan to remove it, and even though it is also a discountinued model (kerosene fuel), if any or all of it would be of interest to you please email me.mike mascaros wrote: has anyone ever had to replace the alcohol container/tank for a
hillrange stove...original eqpt on my 1979 cd30c...i ctc manufacturer
and no joy...no longer available thru them...the lead they gave me got me nowhere...anyway im working on the old one made out of soft iron...lots of rust inside and dont think will be able to clean it out and all that rust and grit clogs the burners...this tank is 12 inches long and 6 inche in diameter holding about a gallon capacity..
having one made could be pricey...changing the old stove a possibility...maybe a new propane or cng unit...but i like the one i
have...anyway any suggestions are welcome...thanks/mike
Joe
sankey@gulftel.com
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Tom
Re: alcohol stove tank
If all else fails here's something you might try. I used to work at the Vespa Motor Scooter store in San Franscisco. The fuel tanks sometimes would rust out on the old scooters. They used to may a product called "tankcote" and maybe still do. You cleaned the tank out with acetone as well as you could, and removed all the fittings valves etc. Then you mixed up the tankcote which was a two part epoxy, poured it in the tank and ran it all around and let it go off and sit for a couple of days. Once it was hard it sealed all the flaking stuff down so it wouldn't clog your valves. It wasn't meant to fix leaks or hold pressure so your tank had to be sound otherwise, but it would seal loose debris. Just a possibility for you to consider. You might try motorcycle shops for tankcote or a product like that under some new name. This was 20 years ago.
TomCambria@mindspring.com
mike mascaros wrote: has anyone ever had to replace the alcohol container/tank for a
hillrange stove...original eqpt on my 1979 cd30c...i ctc manufacturer
and no joy...no longer available thru them...the lead they gave me got me nowhere...anyway im working on the old one made out of soft iron...lots of rust inside and dont think will be able to clean it out and all that rust and grit clogs the burners...this tank is 12 inches long and 6 inche in diameter holding about a gallon capacity..
having one made could be pricey...changing the old stove a possibility...maybe a new propane or cng unit...but i like the one i
have...anyway any suggestions are welcome...thanks/mike
TomCambria@mindspring.com
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matt Cawthorne
Re: alcohol stove tank
Mike,
Another option would be to get a new tank from somewhere like West Marine and put it somewhere else on the boat. I sailed on a boat years ago that had a large tank in one of the cockpit lockers. It was nice to pump it up just once every 3 or 4 days. If you do this I would recommend using a fuel shut off valve somewhere. That way if a burner valve leaks you do not have to depressurize the tank after each use.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
Another option would be to get a new tank from somewhere like West Marine and put it somewhere else on the boat. I sailed on a boat years ago that had a large tank in one of the cockpit lockers. It was nice to pump it up just once every 3 or 4 days. If you do this I would recommend using a fuel shut off valve somewhere. That way if a burner valve leaks you do not have to depressurize the tank after each use.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Kevin LeMans
Re: alcohol stove tank
Something I do know something about.........
First, make sure the stove has been CONVERTED to alcohol, since most of the Hillerange units installed in Cape Dorys were kerosene. You can tell what it was manufactured as by looking at the name plate on the stove. It will say "KERO" if that's what it is (was). Next, if you're certain it's been converted to alcohol, consider using kerosene, since it burns much hotter than alcohol. Yes, it requires somewhat more pre-heating of the burners, but it's worth the effort for the hotter flame. It is very simple to change from one fuel to the other since it only requires changing out the nipple on the burner.
I have re-built the stove including new burners. I installed a new PVC fuel tank manufactured by Galley Maid ($225.00 with all fittings). I actually purchased it through a company called A&H Enterprises here on the West coast, who stock all of the burners and related parts you need to make it work. Be advised that the burners do clog with age, and there is a point at which they need to be replaced. They cost about $75 apiece.
Having said that, there are advantages to a kerosene system. You don't have to carry around a pressurized container full of heavier-than-air gas. The Cape Dory (at least of the vintage we have) doesn't have a propane locker, the installation of which would be a major project and includes through-hulls and all sorts of other issues. I say figure out the kerosene system and go with it.
Just a tip, try to avoid removing the burners from the brass manifold in the stove if you can. They are very difficult to re-seal because of the one-position nature of their installation. I have had to resort to some very expensive industrial thread sealant to keep them from leaking.
A&H Enterprises, Tustin, CA 714-258-2525
Kevin LeMans
CD30 Raconteur
lemans@gte.net
First, make sure the stove has been CONVERTED to alcohol, since most of the Hillerange units installed in Cape Dorys were kerosene. You can tell what it was manufactured as by looking at the name plate on the stove. It will say "KERO" if that's what it is (was). Next, if you're certain it's been converted to alcohol, consider using kerosene, since it burns much hotter than alcohol. Yes, it requires somewhat more pre-heating of the burners, but it's worth the effort for the hotter flame. It is very simple to change from one fuel to the other since it only requires changing out the nipple on the burner.
I have re-built the stove including new burners. I installed a new PVC fuel tank manufactured by Galley Maid ($225.00 with all fittings). I actually purchased it through a company called A&H Enterprises here on the West coast, who stock all of the burners and related parts you need to make it work. Be advised that the burners do clog with age, and there is a point at which they need to be replaced. They cost about $75 apiece.
Having said that, there are advantages to a kerosene system. You don't have to carry around a pressurized container full of heavier-than-air gas. The Cape Dory (at least of the vintage we have) doesn't have a propane locker, the installation of which would be a major project and includes through-hulls and all sorts of other issues. I say figure out the kerosene system and go with it.
Just a tip, try to avoid removing the burners from the brass manifold in the stove if you can. They are very difficult to re-seal because of the one-position nature of their installation. I have had to resort to some very expensive industrial thread sealant to keep them from leaking.
A&H Enterprises, Tustin, CA 714-258-2525
Kevin LeMans
CD30 Raconteur
lemans@gte.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: alcohol stove tank
Kevin,
The Cape Dory 30's were equipped with alcohol stoves by default, and given the kerosene upgrade as an option. While kerosene burns hotter than pressurized alcohol, that about is the end of it's advantages in my opinion.
Here are a few of the problems this fuel has:
1. You will need to carry three fuels at least, if not four if you have a gas powered dinghy; Diesel, Kerosene, Alcohol (to prime the kerosene burner with as you do now with the alcohol stove..but longer and hotter)and the already mentioned gas.
2. Kerosene stinks when it is run rich, as it will each and every time you start the burner up from cold.
3. The stoves waste heat output is way higher than for alcohol, causing the galley to be a lot hotter than with any other fuel..not so nice on warm evenings..nicer however in the fall and spring, when that warmth is desired.
4. Kerosene sreems to carbon up the burners a lot faster than alcohol does. In 18 years of heavy use, our alcohol stove has had one burner rebuild (replaced the generator rod and needle & seat, plus the center wicking material..about $20 in parts total..from Seaward who still has the burner parts at last contact.) This means more frequent servicing and replacements due to the carbonization.
Each fuel has it's Ying and Yang. None are perfect. Some should work well and some will work better for you. Depends on your installation, room available, sensibilities and patience level etc.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
The Cape Dory 30's were equipped with alcohol stoves by default, and given the kerosene upgrade as an option. While kerosene burns hotter than pressurized alcohol, that about is the end of it's advantages in my opinion.
Here are a few of the problems this fuel has:
1. You will need to carry three fuels at least, if not four if you have a gas powered dinghy; Diesel, Kerosene, Alcohol (to prime the kerosene burner with as you do now with the alcohol stove..but longer and hotter)and the already mentioned gas.
2. Kerosene stinks when it is run rich, as it will each and every time you start the burner up from cold.
3. The stoves waste heat output is way higher than for alcohol, causing the galley to be a lot hotter than with any other fuel..not so nice on warm evenings..nicer however in the fall and spring, when that warmth is desired.
4. Kerosene sreems to carbon up the burners a lot faster than alcohol does. In 18 years of heavy use, our alcohol stove has had one burner rebuild (replaced the generator rod and needle & seat, plus the center wicking material..about $20 in parts total..from Seaward who still has the burner parts at last contact.) This means more frequent servicing and replacements due to the carbonization.
Each fuel has it's Ying and Yang. None are perfect. Some should work well and some will work better for you. Depends on your installation, room available, sensibilities and patience level etc.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Kevin LeMans wrote: Something I do know something about.........
First, make sure the stove has been CONVERTED to alcohol, since most of the Hillerange units installed in Cape Dorys were kerosene. You can tell what it was manufactured as by looking at the name plate on the stove. It will say "KERO" if that's what it is (was). Next, if you're certain it's been converted to alcohol, consider using kerosene, since it burns much hotter than alcohol. Yes, it requires somewhat more pre-heating of the burners, but it's worth the effort for the hotter flame. It is very simple to change from one fuel to the other since it only requires changing out the nipple on the burner.
I have re-built the stove including new burners. I installed a new PVC fuel tank manufactured by Galley Maid ($225.00 with all fittings). I actually purchased it through a company called A&H Enterprises here on the West coast, who stock all of the burners and related parts you need to make it work. Be advised that the burners do clog with age, and there is a point at which they need to be replaced. They cost about $75 apiece.
Having said that, there are advantages to a kerosene system. You don't have to carry around a pressurized container full of heavier-than-air gas. The Cape Dory (at least of the vintage we have) doesn't have a propane locker, the installation of which would be a major project and includes through-hulls and all sorts of other issues. I say figure out the kerosene system and go with it.
Just a tip, try to avoid removing the burners from the brass manifold in the stove if you can. They are very difficult to re-seal because of the one-position nature of their installation. I have had to resort to some very expensive industrial thread sealant to keep them from leaking.
A&H Enterprises, Tustin, CA 714-258-2525
Kevin LeMans
CD30 Raconteur
demers@sgi.com
-
Allen Evans
Re: alcohol stove tank
Mike,
I replaced the original alcohol stove and tank on my CD 36 in 1998 with a propane system. The tank is in good condition and available. If you are interested, contact me by e-mail.
- Allen
adevans@worldnet.att.net
I replaced the original alcohol stove and tank on my CD 36 in 1998 with a propane system. The tank is in good condition and available. If you are interested, contact me by e-mail.
- Allen
mike mascaros wrote: has anyone ever had to replace the alcohol container/tank for a
hillrange stove...original eqpt on my 1979 cd30c...i ctc manufacturer
and no joy...no longer available thru them...the lead they gave me got me nowhere...anyway im working on the old one made out of soft iron...lots of rust inside and dont think will be able to clean it out and all that rust and grit clogs the burners...this tank is 12 inches long and 6 inche in diameter holding about a gallon capacity..
having one made could be pricey...changing the old stove a possibility...maybe a new propane or cng unit...but i like the one i
have...anyway any suggestions are welcome...thanks/mike
adevans@worldnet.att.net
-
mikemascaros
Re: alcohol stove tank
i like to thanks all for the response on this matter...it brings me
closer to fixing the problem and overall now i am more aware of the options available...
once i heard....if your only tool is a hammer all your problems look like nails...i hope i can pass onto you some know hows the same way...
cheers/mike....
compinchecd30@yahoo.com
closer to fixing the problem and overall now i am more aware of the options available...
once i heard....if your only tool is a hammer all your problems look like nails...i hope i can pass onto you some know hows the same way...
cheers/mike....
compinchecd30@yahoo.com
-
Kevin LeMans
Re: alcohol stove tank
Larry,
Well, surely you know more about what was standard equipment than I do, but I would note a few things in reply;
1. In my boat, kerosene burns SIGNIFICANTLY hotter than alcohol.
2. I don't have to carry alcohol because I use a small propane torch to pre-heat the burners. And I would do the same with an alcohol stove 'cause it's cleaner and there are no spills to account for.
3. The de-odorized kerosene I buy here doesn't smell any different when the stove is cold than it does when I turn it off. True, it does have more odor than alcohol.
4. Waste heat? Jeez, you must be an engineer. Here in California, it's just not an issue.
5. As far as carbonizing goes, well, I guess that's why I had to replace all the burners. But hey, they were 20 years old! So I say, big deal. Force Ten (I have a kerosene version of their cabin heater) recommends blending mineral spirits with kerosene at 1:4 to promote cleaner burning, so I do and we'll see what happens.
Isn't democracy wonderful?
KL
lemans@gte.net
Well, surely you know more about what was standard equipment than I do, but I would note a few things in reply;
1. In my boat, kerosene burns SIGNIFICANTLY hotter than alcohol.
2. I don't have to carry alcohol because I use a small propane torch to pre-heat the burners. And I would do the same with an alcohol stove 'cause it's cleaner and there are no spills to account for.
3. The de-odorized kerosene I buy here doesn't smell any different when the stove is cold than it does when I turn it off. True, it does have more odor than alcohol.
4. Waste heat? Jeez, you must be an engineer. Here in California, it's just not an issue.
5. As far as carbonizing goes, well, I guess that's why I had to replace all the burners. But hey, they were 20 years old! So I say, big deal. Force Ten (I have a kerosene version of their cabin heater) recommends blending mineral spirits with kerosene at 1:4 to promote cleaner burning, so I do and we'll see what happens.
Isn't democracy wonderful?
KL
Larry DeMers wrote: Kevin,
The Cape Dory 30's were equipped with alcohol stoves by default, and given the kerosene upgrade as an option. While kerosene burns hotter than pressurized alcohol, that about is the end of it's advantages in my opinion.
Here are a few of the problems this fuel has:
1. You will need to carry three fuels at least, if not four if you have a gas powered dinghy; Diesel, Kerosene, Alcohol (to prime the kerosene burner with as you do now with the alcohol stove..but longer and hotter)and the already mentioned gas.
2. Kerosene stinks when it is run rich, as it will each and every time you start the burner up from cold.
3. The stoves waste heat output is way higher than for alcohol, causing the galley to be a lot hotter than with any other fuel..not so nice on warm evenings..nicer however in the fall and spring, when that warmth is desired.
4. Kerosene sreems to carbon up the burners a lot faster than alcohol does. In 18 years of heavy use, our alcohol stove has had one burner rebuild (replaced the generator rod and needle & seat, plus the center wicking material..about $20 in parts total..from Seaward who still has the burner parts at last contact.) This means more frequent servicing and replacements due to the carbonization.
Each fuel has it's Ying and Yang. None are perfect. Some should work well and some will work better for you. Depends on your installation, room available, sensibilities and patience level etc.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Kevin LeMans wrote: Something I do know something about.........
First, make sure the stove has been CONVERTED to alcohol, since most of the Hillerange units installed in Cape Dorys were kerosene. You can tell what it was manufactured as by looking at the name plate on the stove. It will say "KERO" if that's what it is (was). Next, if you're certain it's been converted to alcohol, consider using kerosene, since it burns much hotter than alcohol. Yes, it requires somewhat more pre-heating of the burners, but it's worth the effort for the hotter flame. It is very simple to change from one fuel to the other since it only requires changing out the nipple on the burner.
I have re-built the stove including new burners. I installed a new PVC fuel tank manufactured by Galley Maid ($225.00 with all fittings). I actually purchased it through a company called A&H Enterprises here on the West coast, who stock all of the burners and related parts you need to make it work. Be advised that the burners do clog with age, and there is a point at which they need to be replaced. They cost about $75 apiece.
Having said that, there are advantages to a kerosene system. You don't have to carry around a pressurized container full of heavier-than-air gas. The Cape Dory (at least of the vintage we have) doesn't have a propane locker, the installation of which would be a major project and includes through-hulls and all sorts of other issues. I say figure out the kerosene system and go with it.
Just a tip, try to avoid removing the burners from the brass manifold in the stove if you can. They are very difficult to re-seal because of the one-position nature of their installation. I have had to resort to some very expensive industrial thread sealant to keep them from leaking.
A&H Enterprises, Tustin, CA 714-258-2525
Kevin LeMans
CD30 Raconteur
lemans@gte.net