Perry Nut

[Lee Hodsdon]

OK Gang, I know that somewhere out there someone knows the address and/or phone number of the Perry Nut folks. I've got two weekends left before the boat gets wet, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best to All,

Lee



lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com

[George Probolus]

OK Gang, I know that somewhere out there someone knows the address and/or phone number of the Perry Nut folks. I've got two weekends left before the boat gets wet, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best to All,

Lee

Lee,I have a CD 31. I switched to West Marine for the Perry Nut, Robinhood told me to use the C size and it works fine. I hated to throw out the bronze unit on the old Perry Nut. By the way they are lacated in Califorina (Perry Nut).



gprobolus@prodigy.net

[Bob Ohler]

Lee, I also used West Marine this year for the zinc assembly. I bought the whole assembly for about $30. You get the bronze adapter, and the zinc element, but I substituted the steel set screw with a stainless one. And... it fit just fine. I added a little waterprooof grease to the threads of the shaft to facilitate the installation. Good Luck.... Bob O.



bobohler@chesapeake.net

[Tom Coons]

OK Gang, I know that somewhere out there someone knows the address and/or phone number of the Perry Nut folks. I've got two weekends left before the boat gets wet, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best to All,

Lee

P. 421 in the 1998 West Marine Catalog. They don't call them Perry Nuts but "Propeller Nut Anodes" They are made by Electro Guard if you are trying to find the parent company. What they call a "spare" is the zinc alone. I don't trust the lock washer after the zinc wears down a little so when installing it I put a dab of 5200 on the bolt too. Learned this from a haulout yard. By the time you are ready to replace the zinc next year the 5200 becomes sort of crumbly/gooey so it backs right out, but it works like lock tite in the meantime. Size "C" is for a 1 inch or 1 and 1/8 inch shaft.

taccambria@thegrid.net

[John]

OK Gang, I know that somewhere out there someone knows the address and/or phone number of the Perry Nut folks. I've got two weekends left before the boat gets wet, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best to All,

Lee

LEE,

We use the 3/4" USS(thread) #10RH(thread count) 1 3/4"(nut diameter) Perry Nut on our CD30. The last address I have for them is:

PERRY'S BOAT HARBOR & DRYDOCK CO.
P.O. BOX 375
ISLETON, CA. 95641

Sorry I do not have phone or fax info for them.
I last purchased the Perry Nuts by the case as they were impossible to find locally. As a result I still have many on hand and so have not tried to contact the company for sometime. Thus I hope the address is still valid for you. Also, all the Perry Nuts I have ever used were secured with a cotter pin. The units sold by West are apparently called "Martyr" two part prop-nut anodes. You can replace the zinc section only if you want or the entire unit (which I prefer). The Martyr uses some sort of pin and nylon hex fastener to secure it.



lightwork@earthlink.net

[Jerry]

I don't trust the lock washer after the zinc wears down a little so when installing it I put a dab of 5200 on the bolt too.

You're right not to trust the lock washer. I had one fail one year and when I hauled the boat the zinc was missing. I switched to a different type zinc that is more like a ball than a torpedo. This zinc fits over a bronze nut next to the prop and is held on with a castle-nut. The castle-nut is locked with a cotter pin through the shaft. This setup is very secure and can't fall off. Also, the zinc seems to last longer than the Perry/Prop nut type.

[Lee Hodsdon]

Thank you all so much! It is real nice to know when you are in the "Wilds of Maine" working on a hydro-electric site, that the truly important questions can be answered! Now I wish I'd asked where to find ten pounds of one hundred dollar bills!!!

A sincere thank you to all, fair winds.

Lee

OK Gang, I know that somewhere out there someone knows the address and/or phone number of the Perry Nut folks. I've got two weekends left before the boat gets wet, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best to All,

Lee

lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com

[Matt Cawthorne]

Several replys have mentioned the fact that the zinc may fall off of the two part nut/zinc systems if just a lock nut is used. This happened to me one season. The prop disolved a bit and remained barnicle free. The manager at our boatyard suggested that once the zinc is installed and you think everything is ready to go take a hammer and hit the end of the zinc. Re check the torque on the screw that holds it on. I have done this ever since and have not had a re-occurance. One single strike is all that it takes.
I surmise that there is occasionally a small lump or burr on the zinc which corrodes away and takes the preload off. If you hit it with the hammer the raised area might get squashed. Don't get over-zealous with the hammer, these loads get transmitted to the gearbox during a time when it has no lubrication and hammering too hard could damage your thrust bearings.

Matt



mcawthor@bellatlantic.net

[Matt Cawthorne]

Several replys have mentioned the fact that the zinc may fall off of the two part nut/zinc systems if just a lock nut (this should have said lock washer) is used. This happened to me one season. The prop disolved a bit and remained barnicle free. The manager at our boatyard suggested that once the zinc is installed and you think everything is ready to go take a hammer and hit the end of the zinc. Re check the torque on the screw that holds it on. I have done this ever since and have not had a re-occurance. One single strike is all that it takes.
I surmise that there is occasionally a small lump or burr on the zinc which corrodes away and takes the preload off. If you hit it with the hammer the raised area might get squashed. Don't get over-zealous with the hammer, these loads get transmitted to the gearbox during a time when it has no lubrication and hammering too hard could damage your thrust bearings.

Matt



mcawthor@bellatlantic.net

[sam]

It has been my understanding that there needs to be good electrical connection between a zinc (Perry Nut) and the ships ground (prop shaft) for it to work properly. It would seem to me that the use of grease, 5200 etc on the PN would reduce that conductivity. The result being that the PN lasts a long time but the stuff you are protecting corrodes. I should think the 'peening it with a hammer' approach would be a much better way. Am I wrong????

[Walt Bilofsky]

It has been my understanding that there needs to be good electrical connection between a zinc (Perry Nut) and the ships ground (prop shaft) for it to work properly. It would seem to me that the use of grease, 5200 etc on the PN would reduce that conductivity.

It would seem that way - but isn't it common practice to put a thin film of grease on battery terminals before connecting them? And they are very high current junctions so extremely sensitive to electrical resistance. But I'd worry more about the grease causing things to slip.

Tom's comment about using 5200 was just to put a dab on the bolt.

BTW Lee, in response to your last question, you can get ten pounds of hundred dollar bills at most any bank. But they are very expensive. (Or you can pay twice as much for them at any marine supply store.)



bilofsky@toolworks.com

[Tom Coons]

OK Gang, I know that somewhere out there someone knows the address and/or phone number of the Perry Nut folks. I've got two weekends left before the boat gets wet, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best to All,

Lee

Sorry gang didn't mean to create any confusion. I don't put 5200 between the bronze nut and the shaft. The 5200 goes on the little 1/4 x 20 bolt that holds the zinc to the bronze part of the nut. That's a coarse thread on a rotating and vibrating shaft. The only "lock" is a star washer type lock nut that depends on tension to keep the bolt from turning. When the zinc wears down a little you lose some of the tension and you're counting on a very short coarse thread bolt to keep the zinc on. I had one come off once and crash into the rudder. The big bronze nut that screws on the shaft is held in place by a cotter pin and doesn't need any 5200 or anything else to secure it. I don't even grease that as I've never had trouble getting it off, altho I know some people do.

taccambria@thegrid.net

[Lee H. Hodsdon]

It has been my understanding that there needs to be good electrical connection between a zinc (Perry Nut) and the ships ground (prop shaft) for it to work properly. It would seem to me that the use of grease, 5200 etc on the PN would reduce that conductivity.

It would seem that way - but isn't it common practice to put a thin film of grease on battery terminals before connecting them? And they are very high current junctions so extremely sensitive to electrical resistance. But I'd worry more about the grease causing things to slip.

Tom's comment about using 5200 was just to put a dab on the bolt.

BTW Lee, in response to your last question, you can get ten pounds of hundred dollar bills at most any bank. But they are very expensive. (Or you can pay twice as much for them at any marine supply store.)

Thanks for the hundred dollar supply information, I think the marine supply price is higher due to the fact that these are intended to be torn up while standing under a cold shower.

Thanks to everyone, I found Perry's (916) 777-6461, and an East Coast supplier, C. E. Beckman in New Bedford, MA (508) 994-9674. Had the unit delivered by UPS, total cost $32, worked like a dream, though drilling the hole for the cotter pin was a real drag until I found a sharp, high quality drill and got the "feed and speed " correct.

Now I know why my motor always gained rpm and top speed increased at the end of the season, the doughnut type zinc had fallen off!

A couple more coats of varnish, run the motor, change transmission oil and launch next Tuesday. Ain't life grand!

Thanks again,

Lee



lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com