About the engine bed: looking at the bed, it must be lengthened otherwise it looks OK.
I will report further when the old unit is out and I can have access.
I have purchased the three Yanmar manuals and they look to be quite good (if expensive).
Have not yet gone out for quotes on the engine.
I have been documenting all the rebuild/upgrade steps with photos as the work progress and if they can help anyone else they will be available.
The rudder bearing rebuild is now complete.
I am now cutting out the rusty portside chainplate support. Starbord side looks fine. The ones in the bow and in the stern are very rusty and will be next. (Thanks to Jim Jones on this board for sharing his ideas on this problem).
Jim
jtstull@earthlink.net
Yanmar 2Gm in CD27 (continued)
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bob Padlowski
Re: Yanmar 2Gm in CD27 (continued)
Jim,
I also have a CD27, hull #47. I have been considering the 2GM20 upgrade, so I appreciate the posts.
Re: the rusty chainplates- are you referring to the reinforcing bar embedded in fiberglass under the deck? How did you know they were rusty?
I can't even see mine, it's completely glassed over. I did rebed the chaimplate "ends", the bronze fittings on deck, a few years ago. There was quite a bit of leakage through my deck around these. On my boat, this area of the deck was solid- no core in sight.
Bob
rpadlowski@hotmail.com
I also have a CD27, hull #47. I have been considering the 2GM20 upgrade, so I appreciate the posts.
Re: the rusty chainplates- are you referring to the reinforcing bar embedded in fiberglass under the deck? How did you know they were rusty?
I can't even see mine, it's completely glassed over. I did rebed the chaimplate "ends", the bronze fittings on deck, a few years ago. There was quite a bit of leakage through my deck around these. On my boat, this area of the deck was solid- no core in sight.
Bob
Jim Stull wrote: About the engine bed: looking at the bed, it must be lengthened otherwise it looks OK.
I will report further when the old unit is out and I can have access.
I have purchased the three Yanmar manuals and they look to be quite good (if expensive).
Have not yet gone out for quotes on the engine.
I have been documenting all the rebuild/upgrade steps with photos as the work progress and if they can help anyone else they will be available.
The rudder bearing rebuild is now complete.
I am now cutting out the rusty portside chainplate support. Starbord side looks fine. The ones in the bow and in the stern are very rusty and will be next. (Thanks to Jim Jones on this board for sharing his ideas on this problem).
Jim
rpadlowski@hotmail.com
-
Jim Stull
Re: Yanmar 2Gm in CD27 (continued)
Bob
The rebar is welded to the backup plate under the deck. The bars then are covered with a layer of mat.
There are three of them. Two can be inspected (on my boat anyway) by removing the inspection panel in the head area. The other is in the cabin area, aft of the bulkhead.
Since I knew that I was going to have to replace this assembly, I cut away the liner to provide better access.
If you don't see rust thru the glass covering of the rebar you most likly don't have a problem.
The ones in the bow and stern are quite rusty and will be replaced.
These look to be a bit simpler jobs.
Jim
jtstull@earthlink.net
The rebar is welded to the backup plate under the deck. The bars then are covered with a layer of mat.
There are three of them. Two can be inspected (on my boat anyway) by removing the inspection panel in the head area. The other is in the cabin area, aft of the bulkhead.
Since I knew that I was going to have to replace this assembly, I cut away the liner to provide better access.
If you don't see rust thru the glass covering of the rebar you most likly don't have a problem.
The ones in the bow and stern are quite rusty and will be replaced.
These look to be a bit simpler jobs.
Jim
jtstull@earthlink.net
-
Mark Yashinsky
Re: Yanmar 2Gm in CD27 (continued)
Dont know if Captain Goldsmith (Second Chance) got back to you on the modifications to the glass holding the companionway steps, but...
The lip in in the glass that holds the top "step" and the top 5" of the vertical part looks unchanged at 14.5" open width. The bottom 19" of the vertical part, the lip looks to have been removed (radiused where it widens) to get a 17.25" openning. The lip remains on the bottom cross piece. Dont know if the original engine was installed before the deck was attached, as the 1GM and 2GM have a similiar width. The height is within 2" of each other, and the extra cylinder adds 4" length. Clearances, the crank damper pulley just kisses the backside of the companionway steps, there is room on the port side, mounted to the glass pan that holds the stove and cooking storage, the coolant overflow tank, and on Second Chance, an hour meter, the external regulator, and a fuel filter/separator. Add a filter/separator, as the small one on the engineis a pain and can easily leak after opening. Also, another (larger) raw water inlet was added on the starboard side, near the raw water pump. The old inlet, on the port side, was closed and the handle wired so it cannot be openned. It is scheduled to be removed and glassed over soon (next haulout, William???). Also, the prop should be repitched or changed, to use the power. Im sure access to the side and back of the 1GM is not great, given the dimensions, but doubling you HP and FT/LBS, has to help.
The lip in in the glass that holds the top "step" and the top 5" of the vertical part looks unchanged at 14.5" open width. The bottom 19" of the vertical part, the lip looks to have been removed (radiused where it widens) to get a 17.25" openning. The lip remains on the bottom cross piece. Dont know if the original engine was installed before the deck was attached, as the 1GM and 2GM have a similiar width. The height is within 2" of each other, and the extra cylinder adds 4" length. Clearances, the crank damper pulley just kisses the backside of the companionway steps, there is room on the port side, mounted to the glass pan that holds the stove and cooking storage, the coolant overflow tank, and on Second Chance, an hour meter, the external regulator, and a fuel filter/separator. Add a filter/separator, as the small one on the engineis a pain and can easily leak after opening. Also, another (larger) raw water inlet was added on the starboard side, near the raw water pump. The old inlet, on the port side, was closed and the handle wired so it cannot be openned. It is scheduled to be removed and glassed over soon (next haulout, William???). Also, the prop should be repitched or changed, to use the power. Im sure access to the side and back of the 1GM is not great, given the dimensions, but doubling you HP and FT/LBS, has to help.