Typhoon chain plates bolt and nuts

[Louish]

Hello,
I am re-bedding my chain plates. Where can I get new nuts and bolts? Can I find in any hardware store?
Thanks.

[keneasley]

I would recommend 316 stainless steel for bolts (machine screws), nuts, washers, etc.

I have used McMaster-Carr for many years. They have a very large selection.
You should consider buying an electronic digital caliper (not expensive) for accurate measurements of the old fasteners.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screw ... screws-2~/

Another option is Fair Wind Fasteners. They have 316 stainless steel as well as silicone bronze and copper.
For what you are doing you want the 316 stainless steel for strength and corrosion resistance.
But someday you may find you need bronze or copper fasteners and they have them.
I bought some nice silicone bronze fasteners from them for rebedding the Dyna-Plate on Felicity last year and they had exactly what I needed.

Bes of luck with your project.

[Jim Walsh]

The simple answer is yes, just bring a magnet with you since the chain hardware stores buy from the low cost provider so there is no assurance of quality. If there is a West Marine close by they tend to have a great selection of quality 316 hardware sold by the individual piece rather than prepackaged in various quantities.

[Louish]

Thanks. Great I’ll check at nearby West Marine. I posted a pictures of the bolts. Do you think I should also add washers? As for the sealant any preferences between 3M 4000UV and Life Caulk.

[Jim Walsh]

Thanks. Great I’ll check at nearby West Marine. I posted a pictures of the bolts. Do you think I should also add washers? As for the sealant any preferences between 3M 4000UV and Life Caulk.

As a general rule I always use washers and lock washers with any nut, even a locknut. I tend to use Life Caulk as it last’s for years and is easily removed. I’ve used 4000UV to bed hatches which I hope never to have to remove again and are far less prone to movement due to stress whereas a chainplate is stressed continuously even at the slip or mooring. It would help if you updated your profile as there’s no way to tell which model you own. What is suitable for a daysailer may be unsuitable for a long distance cruiser.

[Louish]

I’ve updated my profile to Typhoon Daysailer. An associate from West Marine informed me that Life Caulk and 3M 4000UV are essentially the same product and suggested the latest. However, I’ve also read more positive feedbacks about Life Caulk. I’ll also add washers to the bolts. Why they did not use them originally is questionable.

[Jim Walsh]

I’ve updated my profile to Typhoon Daysailer. An associate from West Marine informed me that Life Caulk and 3M 4000UV are essentially the same product and suggested the latest. However, I’ve also read more positive feedbacks about Life Caulk. I’ll also add washers to the bolts. Why they did not use them originally is questionable.

The associate is incorrect. 4000UV is a polyether and Life Caulk is a polysulfide. I use Life Caulk where I know I will eventually need to separate something (such as the teak trim around my companionway from the fiberglass deckhouse, were I to use a polyether there’s a good chance the teak would be destroyed trying to separate it from the fiberglass) and the polyether products where I hope never to do so again. The label on a tube of 4000UV describes it as an “adhesive sealant”.

[Louish]

Thanks for the recommendations. I didn’t pay much attention to the “adhesive” label, but it makes sense now. Someone also mentioned butyl tape. It seems like my chainplates were previously re-bedded, and I’m not sure when and what the previous owner used as a sealant. I hope it wasn’t a strong adhesive like 5200 or 4200, as I don’t want to damage the area by trying to remove the old sealant. Any advise?