Typhoon cockpit deck structure
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Typhoon cockpit deck structure
I bought a Typhoon in June and now am examining some issues that I suspected even when I bought the boat. There was cracking in the cockpit deck between the drain holes, just outside the cabin entry. When I excavated the cracks in the gelcoat, I discovered openings in the fiberglass, with rotted wood underneath. In order to plan the repair, it would be useful to know how far back this wood panel extends. Does a single wood panel go all the way back in the cockpit deck between the benches? Or are there solid fiberglass sections within the deck going crosswise, between separate wood panels?
Re: Typhoon cockpit deck structure
Here's a project out there (not mine).....good luck!
https://www.cantaora.com/2022/12/restor ... -dory.html
https://www.cantaora.com/2022/12/restor ... -dory.html
Re: Typhoon cockpit deck structure
There's probably not solid glass going across, just hardened resin between plywood panels. At least that's what I found on my CD30. Mine had two different thickness pieces of wood. I wrote a pretty extensive post about what I did in 2016. I cut out the entire top skin, then all the rotted or wet core, replaced that with Coosa, then re glassed the top. It wasn't hard, just time consuming. On the Ty you'll need to work around the rudder post. It was really useful to have two people for the layup step, one to mix epoxy and one to spread it.
Jeff
Jeff
Re: Typhoon cockpit deck structure
Last Spring I purchased Typhoon Daysailer #1 (now named Zephyr)
Additionally, the boat seems to have a slight but noticeable list to port(<5 degrees), so I'm thinking maybe there is water inside the flotation space in the port cockpit seat? The brochure says there is "foam" added for flotation in these models. Is it possible the foam has gotten saturated? Sitting on the starboard seat brings the boat plumb, so I'm guessing there could be upwards of 20 gallons of water trapped in there?
My question to anyone with experience with a Typhoon daysailer is what, if anything, I can or should do about the list and damp plywood core? I LIKE the positive flotation aspect and drilling a hole and hoping the water drains out doesn't seem like much of a fix if it compromises the positive flotation. Replacing the entire cockpit sole looks like an unhappy amount of mess and work... The sole feels solid underfoot, so I'm wondering if I could start with a tactical strike rather than ripping the whole thing out?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Ken
Deer Harbor, Orcas Island
After taking off uncountable layers of bottom paint, fiberglass and gelcoat repair, repainting the bottom, buffing and polishing the topsides, rebuilding the trailer and making a tongue extension, we finally got out sailing in July! All the inboard issues had to wait; chief of which is what seems to be a water saturated plywood cockpit sole. The bilge hole has exposed plywood edges, like it was cut but never sealed back up properly? Additionally, the boat seems to have a slight but noticeable list to port(<5 degrees), so I'm thinking maybe there is water inside the flotation space in the port cockpit seat? The brochure says there is "foam" added for flotation in these models. Is it possible the foam has gotten saturated? Sitting on the starboard seat brings the boat plumb, so I'm guessing there could be upwards of 20 gallons of water trapped in there?
My question to anyone with experience with a Typhoon daysailer is what, if anything, I can or should do about the list and damp plywood core? I LIKE the positive flotation aspect and drilling a hole and hoping the water drains out doesn't seem like much of a fix if it compromises the positive flotation. Replacing the entire cockpit sole looks like an unhappy amount of mess and work... The sole feels solid underfoot, so I'm wondering if I could start with a tactical strike rather than ripping the whole thing out?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Ken
Deer Harbor, Orcas Island
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