Painting the Mast
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Painting the Mast
I had not planned for this. I had noticed some bubbling paint in the mast between the gooseneck and the deck. It was worse looking after I took the full cover off. So, I decided to drop the mast and tackle it now. Also, the awlgrip is turning 10 years old and the spar has not been down and fully inspected since I stepped it in 2015.
The basic plan is to remove all the rigging and all the hardware. Then sand the bubbles parts back to bare metal, acid etch, apply two coats of epoxy primer, then roll on three coats of topcoat over the entire spar. I have no idea how long this project will take. Maybe a month if the wx cooperates and nothing interferes with my time. But, it always takes longer than we think.
We used a crane to pull the mast. A 30 min job start to finish. Not difficult. I had used Vaseline to coat the partner when I poured the Spartite mast wedge in 2015 so it came right out. No problem.
Today, I striped and coiled the standing rigging and removed rhe spreaders. I'll get back after it tomorrow.
The basic plan is to remove all the rigging and all the hardware. Then sand the bubbles parts back to bare metal, acid etch, apply two coats of epoxy primer, then roll on three coats of topcoat over the entire spar. I have no idea how long this project will take. Maybe a month if the wx cooperates and nothing interferes with my time. But, it always takes longer than we think.
We used a crane to pull the mast. A 30 min job start to finish. Not difficult. I had used Vaseline to coat the partner when I poured the Spartite mast wedge in 2015 so it came right out. No problem.
Today, I striped and coiled the standing rigging and removed rhe spreaders. I'll get back after it tomorrow.
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- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Painting the Mast
Got the mast stripped of all hardware. Washed with soap and water. Tomorrow I will dewax and make preparations for sanding.
Re: Painting the Mast
Will this be a roll and brush, or a spray ?
New to this.
And thank you for the wheel to tiller conversion article in a
different post![👍](//cdn.jsdelivr.net/gh/twitter/twemoji@latest/assets/svg/1f44d.svg)
New to this.
And thank you for the wheel to tiller conversion article in a
different post
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- Posts: 3582
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Painting the Mast
Glad the tiller conversion info was useful to you.
Roll and tip. Spraying is expensive. And doing it yourself requires very specialized skill and equipment. It's also quite dangerous. Two part LPU paint has isocyanide in it. Much safer to roll and tip and with the brushing converter and some practice it looks sprayed. Also more paint goes on the surface rolling and topping then when sprayed.
Anyway, I washed the spar with dawn soap. Then several wipe down with Awlgrip T0170 slow evaporating solvent using two rag method to remove contaminates. This morning, I sanded all the bubbled spots and anything that looked suspect with 60 grit to get bright shiny metal. Used compressed air to remove sanding residue. Then rolled on the first coat of stronium chromate two part epoxy primer AKA Aluma-Protect by Petite paints. Tomorrow another coat of aluma-protect then a hot coat of Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer.
Re: Painting the Mast
Just watched the new video, good stuff as usual.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mznb1A1h61A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mznb1A1h61A
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
-
- Posts: 3582
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Painting the Mast
Thanks Jim.
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- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
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Re: Painting the Mast
Three coats of Awlgrip applied. We tried a couple techniques before we settled on the best approach.
We mixed about 24oz of paint and thinned it with 2.5 oz of T00031 thinner (10 percent). We poured it into a foil lined small roller pan. Same as when we painted the cabin top. We rolled and tipped the Awlgrip as we have for other projects. 4" foam hot dog roller and tipped with 2" foam brush. We had a couple curtains. I was not impressed with the over quality. We worked side to side along the mast. We just could not move fast enough to keep a wet esdge while rolling the paint out. We did not have it thinned enough. I sanded the next day careful to remove the curtains. We also had mixed too much paint.
For the second coat we mixed only 15oz of Awlgrip and thinned with 3 oz of thinner (20 percent) and then poured it into two 12oz cups with unloading rods installed in the cups. Just the same as when we varnish. Gayle painted one side and I, opposite her, painted the other side. We painted about 8-10" at a time tipping back towards what we had just painted keeping a wet edge. We moved quickly along the 52' long mast. Just like when we varnish. It worked very well. We tipped with the same brush we applied the paint with, just like varnish. We replaced the foam brushes about every 12-15' as we went along because the solvents cause the foam to slowly swell and get soft. Gayle's side was perfect. I had a few curtains. About 2/3rds of the way down the mast I decided to apply the paint exactly the same but started final tipping with a dry foam brush--so I was using two brushes. I held the paint dispenser and the dry tipping brush in one hand and applied the paint and stroked it out with the other brush. Then, switched brushes and tipped with the dry brush. About every 12-15' I dropped the foam brush I was painting with and then used brush I had been tipping with to apply the paint then drew a dry brush out of my pocket as the new tipping brush and kept going. Perfect results. We sanded the next day very lightly. Had a couple days of rain. Finally, got some good weather. Wiped the mast dry and then wiped it down with denatured alcohol and started in on the third coat. Again, about 15oz of Awlgrip thinned with 3 oz of thinner and split between two cups. She stayed with her one brush technique incorporating a new brush every 12' or so feet. I used the two brush method rotating and replacing brushes same as before. We stayed exactly opposite each other painting about 10" at a time. At the half way point we added more thinner. The paint self leveled beautifully. The mast looks sprayed. I am satisfied...and pleased. The mast has to cure for 14 days before we lift it with a sling and crane to restep it.
We are not experts at applying Awlgrip though we are competent. We painted the topsides about seven years ago. It still looks sprayed even two feet away. That project convinced me amateurs can apply a quality paint job. We painted the cabin top about a year ago. It looks pretty good though not as consistently good as the topsides. I painted the cockpit locker lids last fall. Looks sprayed. And now the mast. What I have learned is you can't be afraid of these projects. Download the info and make a checklist. Have everything prepared. Be patient. It has to be sanded between coats if you are rolling and tipping and you want very good results--same as varnish. You might not be able to sand and paint on the same day if you are outside. Weather is a huge factor. Thinning is critical. It's counter intuitive. You might think thinner paint is more likely to run especially on vertical surfaces. Just the opposite is true. Because it's thinner there is less mass and it's less likely to drip and run. I have consistently found thinning 20-30 percent produces the best results. Do not try to stretch it out when it is apparent you need to add thinner. You will probably need to add more thinner as you go. We should have thinned more and then rethinned at the half way point on the cabin top last summer. It still looks great but it would be perfect had we done that.
Each project is different. Don't be afraid to change your technique. We have had great luck with rolling and tipping on other projects but it just didn't work well for us on the mast. But brushing alone did the trick. Gayle never tipped with a dry brush but I used it achieving the same results she did. So there's some wiggle room for individual technique. You must tip towards the paint you previously applied to keep a wet edge if you want to eliminate brush marks.
Most important. You must wear a good mask with the appropriate vapor cartridges when brushing any two part LPU paint no matter if you are inside or outside. Spraying the paint is an order of magnitude more dangerous than brushing because the paint is atomized. Though I have seen pro painters spraying with a mask and passive vapor cartridges all the manufacturers recommend a forced air mask with over pressurization to be safe when spraying.
We have several days of rain forecasted. In a couple days I'll start reinstalling the hardware. In the meantime, I'll start work on the boom which is at home in the garage along with the aluminum winch bases plates, spreaders, and the deck mast collar.
We mixed about 24oz of paint and thinned it with 2.5 oz of T00031 thinner (10 percent). We poured it into a foil lined small roller pan. Same as when we painted the cabin top. We rolled and tipped the Awlgrip as we have for other projects. 4" foam hot dog roller and tipped with 2" foam brush. We had a couple curtains. I was not impressed with the over quality. We worked side to side along the mast. We just could not move fast enough to keep a wet esdge while rolling the paint out. We did not have it thinned enough. I sanded the next day careful to remove the curtains. We also had mixed too much paint.
For the second coat we mixed only 15oz of Awlgrip and thinned with 3 oz of thinner (20 percent) and then poured it into two 12oz cups with unloading rods installed in the cups. Just the same as when we varnish. Gayle painted one side and I, opposite her, painted the other side. We painted about 8-10" at a time tipping back towards what we had just painted keeping a wet edge. We moved quickly along the 52' long mast. Just like when we varnish. It worked very well. We tipped with the same brush we applied the paint with, just like varnish. We replaced the foam brushes about every 12-15' as we went along because the solvents cause the foam to slowly swell and get soft. Gayle's side was perfect. I had a few curtains. About 2/3rds of the way down the mast I decided to apply the paint exactly the same but started final tipping with a dry foam brush--so I was using two brushes. I held the paint dispenser and the dry tipping brush in one hand and applied the paint and stroked it out with the other brush. Then, switched brushes and tipped with the dry brush. About every 12-15' I dropped the foam brush I was painting with and then used brush I had been tipping with to apply the paint then drew a dry brush out of my pocket as the new tipping brush and kept going. Perfect results. We sanded the next day very lightly. Had a couple days of rain. Finally, got some good weather. Wiped the mast dry and then wiped it down with denatured alcohol and started in on the third coat. Again, about 15oz of Awlgrip thinned with 3 oz of thinner and split between two cups. She stayed with her one brush technique incorporating a new brush every 12' or so feet. I used the two brush method rotating and replacing brushes same as before. We stayed exactly opposite each other painting about 10" at a time. At the half way point we added more thinner. The paint self leveled beautifully. The mast looks sprayed. I am satisfied...and pleased. The mast has to cure for 14 days before we lift it with a sling and crane to restep it.
We are not experts at applying Awlgrip though we are competent. We painted the topsides about seven years ago. It still looks sprayed even two feet away. That project convinced me amateurs can apply a quality paint job. We painted the cabin top about a year ago. It looks pretty good though not as consistently good as the topsides. I painted the cockpit locker lids last fall. Looks sprayed. And now the mast. What I have learned is you can't be afraid of these projects. Download the info and make a checklist. Have everything prepared. Be patient. It has to be sanded between coats if you are rolling and tipping and you want very good results--same as varnish. You might not be able to sand and paint on the same day if you are outside. Weather is a huge factor. Thinning is critical. It's counter intuitive. You might think thinner paint is more likely to run especially on vertical surfaces. Just the opposite is true. Because it's thinner there is less mass and it's less likely to drip and run. I have consistently found thinning 20-30 percent produces the best results. Do not try to stretch it out when it is apparent you need to add thinner. You will probably need to add more thinner as you go. We should have thinned more and then rethinned at the half way point on the cabin top last summer. It still looks great but it would be perfect had we done that.
Each project is different. Don't be afraid to change your technique. We have had great luck with rolling and tipping on other projects but it just didn't work well for us on the mast. But brushing alone did the trick. Gayle never tipped with a dry brush but I used it achieving the same results she did. So there's some wiggle room for individual technique. You must tip towards the paint you previously applied to keep a wet edge if you want to eliminate brush marks.
Most important. You must wear a good mask with the appropriate vapor cartridges when brushing any two part LPU paint no matter if you are inside or outside. Spraying the paint is an order of magnitude more dangerous than brushing because the paint is atomized. Though I have seen pro painters spraying with a mask and passive vapor cartridges all the manufacturers recommend a forced air mask with over pressurization to be safe when spraying.
We have several days of rain forecasted. In a couple days I'll start reinstalling the hardware. In the meantime, I'll start work on the boom which is at home in the garage along with the aluminum winch bases plates, spreaders, and the deck mast collar.
Re: Painting the Mast
Nice job. I was wondering how you managed to apply paint to the entire mast in one shot until I saw that you suspended the mast by the mainsail track. Well executed plan and great results.
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
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- Posts: 3582
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Painting the Mast
Thanks. It's info for the archives in case anyone else wants to do a similar project.
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Re: Painting the Mast
The mast is about 90 percent reassembled. It's been slow going in the oppressive blazing NC heat. Mostly I work on the boom in my garage in the morning then drive to the boatyard in the afternoon when it's beginning to cool off.
Last week I spent a ridiculous amount of time installing a single backing plate for the main halyard winch. It had to go inside the mast and be pop riveted in place. Then drilled and tapped for the fasteners. It gave me a lot of trouble due to the PVC conduit I installed to support the wire for the steaming light--the conduit was in the way. I bet I spent more than 15 hours over five days working one that one thing. I finally got it completed. I'll post some pictures of the project. Same for the boom rebuild.
Last week I spent a ridiculous amount of time installing a single backing plate for the main halyard winch. It had to go inside the mast and be pop riveted in place. Then drilled and tapped for the fasteners. It gave me a lot of trouble due to the PVC conduit I installed to support the wire for the steaming light--the conduit was in the way. I bet I spent more than 15 hours over five days working one that one thing. I finally got it completed. I'll post some pictures of the project. Same for the boom rebuild.
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Re: Painting the Mast
Thanks John
I ‘m afraid to remove all the hardware in my mast. I wonder if there are backing plates inside that will make it a nightmare to reattach. It’ll be in December. I’ve been told to remove and replace all the old fasteners. Do I just clean the old holes and set everything back the same with some type if anti seize or gell? I think probably most of the screws will break. This is something I’ve really wanted to do. I dont think its ever been done. I will not be painting the spars. I think the aluminum still looks good
I ‘m afraid to remove all the hardware in my mast. I wonder if there are backing plates inside that will make it a nightmare to reattach. It’ll be in December. I’ve been told to remove and replace all the old fasteners. Do I just clean the old holes and set everything back the same with some type if anti seize or gell? I think probably most of the screws will break. This is something I’ve really wanted to do. I dont think its ever been done. I will not be painting the spars. I think the aluminum still looks good
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
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Re: Painting the Mast
No need to paint your mast. Aluminum left bare gets a kind of patina surface corrosion that protects it. I painted mine because I wanted to not because it was necessary. Those old fasteners may be very tough to remove. Pop rivets are easy to drill out. Machine screws are a whole other animal. All mine came out because I installed them with Tef-Gel which is quality anti seize compound. Very expensive but worth it. Apparently someone else is making a knock off compound for a better price. You'll have to Google it. But, lanicote is not near as good. I recommend Tef-gel. A small jar of a couple oz will last you for the rest of the boat's life probably. I have a video coming out soon on all the prep work and then reinstallation of the mast and boom hardware. I share info on the tea-gel as well as how I installed my backing plates. It might be useful to you. The rig-rite spars are have thick scantlings and its not normally required to use backing plates. My mast is has thinner side walls so I used backing plates where possible.
Now is a good time to start researching what to do about fasteners that break off in the spar. One thing I can recommend is a manual hammer style impact driver. I used one to remove a couple recalcitrant fasteners and it worked a charm for me. I bought it at Ace Hardware for about $20. Well worth it.
Now is a good time to start researching what to do about fasteners that break off in the spar. One thing I can recommend is a manual hammer style impact driver. I used one to remove a couple recalcitrant fasteners and it worked a charm for me. I bought it at Ace Hardware for about $20. Well worth it.
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Re: Painting the Mast
Almost there. All the hardware minus the spreaders and standing rigging attached. Painted the bulwarks this morning. Rain forecasted rest of the week. Crane scheduled for Wed or Thursday.
This was not a hard project but my gosh it took a long time.
This was not a hard project but my gosh it took a long time.
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Re: Painting the Mast
We restepped the mast today. The crane showed up at 1100 and we were complete by 1200. It was scorching hot and the air was thick with humidity. I’ll take the boom to the boat tomorrow or Saturday, install it, and wrap this project up. Very happy to have the mast repainted and all the hardware cleaned up and reinstalled.
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Re: Painting the Mast
Nice work Beautiful as always. I doubt I’ll ever get to that project but I hope i can at least reset the critical hardware. Im scheduled haulout 12/16. I may try to do it sooner. Im bored. I just returned from Newport Harbor where i anchored four days and i rebed the portlights and replaced the teak panals at the v- berth. I stopped and anchored one night at Santa Barbara Island then on the way home I anchored one night at Redondo Beach harbor(Kings Harbor). Then I spent 4 days at Marina del Rey
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510