Typhoon cabin top fairleads

[Joe CD MS 300]

It took some research of old post and searching of Typhoon pictures posted on the internet to figure out what the track mounted cabin top fairleads where used for. Apparently the sheets for smaller jibs can be run through the fairleads inside of the shrouds. Some of the pictures I saw had blocks attached to the fairleads or were on the tracks. Is that really necessary? The line tension I have encountered so far on the sheets and halyards has been pretty modest. The sheets are new and could actually use a little roughing up. Does it make a significant difference in pointing ability?

Joe

[ariasis]

You are right the fair leads on the top are for your standard working jib or your storm jib. It does make quite a bit of difference probably not as much as installing a traveler would but it definitely make a difference. Mine are just the fairleads I think some people switch them out with blocks I don't see any need for that and I've been out in some pretty strong winds.

The blocks on the toe rail are set up for your Genoa the lines go out and around your side stays through the toe rail blocks then back to your winches. Good blocks here are a must the Genoa can pull you pretty well.

Check out my Typhoon blog when you get a chance I redid my Typhoon a few years back and their is a lot of info up on it and feel free to shoot me a question any time. http://bristol-blue.blogspot.com/

[jtjc53]

Has anyone tried swapping out the Typhoon jib fairleads for ratcheting blocks on t-track cars? Currently on our 1974 Typhoon Weekender, I have our jib sheets running through an "eye" type fairlead (that came standard I assume) on a short t-track and back to small cam cleats I've installed next to the standard horn cleats. Sailing often in strong(ish) winds, with a full load on the jib sheet, it can be hard to pull it out of the cam, and once someone does this, their hands gripping the sheet can be jerked forward because of that load. I'm wondering is swapping out the fairleads for small (auto)ratcheting blocks on t-track cars might alleviate that problem. Has anyone tried this?

[Ben Miller]

Interesting idea, but I'm skeptical it would work out as well as you hope. My experience with ratcheting blocks it that they need a decent amount of wrap around the sheave before they have enough friction to work well, and the angles of the jib sheet aren't likely to give you that. And then from a practical standpoint I think you'll find it hard to find a block, or even a car, that's the right size for the dinky tracks typically on a Typhoon.