Replacing/repairing original hand bilge pump - CD 31

[jen1722terry]

Hello all CDers!

It's springtime at the boatyard in Blue Hill, ME. We were getting our 31 ready for a Friday launch and checked the manual bilge pump. It was not working. We checked for clogs and the lines were clear. We noticed the rubber gasket around the pump handle was cracked. We're assuming the internal parts are damaged. It is the original hand bilge pump on our 1984 boat. We have a few questions that we would be most grateful for someone to respond to:

Any advice for getting the old pump out and the new one in? The old pump is mounted on the starboard cockpit wall just forward of the lazarette. Tight fit for the 74-year-old sailor.

Thanks in advance for the help. We wish all of you a great spring outfitting/launch and the best sailing season ever.

Jenn and Terry McAdams
Northeast Harbor, ME.

[sgbernd]

I assume it is a Whale Gusher 8 or something similar. You can get a service kit and rebuild or you can replace it. The price difference is not very much.

If you opt to rebuild, the problem is finding out exactly which pump you have and getting the proper spares kit. This is not so easy as there are several models which look very similar but are not the same or from a different vintage. Rebuilding is easy, once the pump has been removed and the spares kit obtained, but as you note, removal can be a challenge for a contortionist depending on where it is mounted.

If you opt to replace, the problem is that the new version of the same pump has been updated from the imperial measurements to metric. So things are "close" but not quite and it takes a bit of jiggering and trips to the hardware store to get it all sorted out. For example, the OEM pump used 1/4-20 threads for mounting. The current pump uses M6 threads so you need to find the metric rack in your hardware store and replace the screws.

It is roughly the same effort to replace as to rebuild but you get a spare handle and new body with the new one.

-Steve

[Frenchy]

I've removed the bilge pump on my 33 a couple of times and I have to say it is not easy. On my boat, I had to
work from both sides - inside, working from the quarterberth and outside, working from the cockpit. To remove
and replace a couple of the nuts, I used a combination wrench with tape across a face of the opening, then
snuck the wrench down onto the nut. The tape held the nut so it wouldn't fall out of the wrench.
This is one of the jobs that require thought and patience. My pump had an aluminum body which was all
corroded around the ports on the inside, so wasn't a candidate for rebuilding. If you can find a plastic pump
to fit in there, that would be more durable, I think. I might have done that, but don't remember (old age).
Interestingly, the first time I tackled this pump was right after I bought the boat. A yard had just installed
a new pump - but it didn't work. Everything looked good and I couldn't figure out what the problem was. Then,
when I put my hand over the inlet port and started pumping, I discovered the problem. The pump was in backwards-
trying to pump the ocean into my bilge.
So much for yard workers. - Jean

[keneasley]

I'd rebuild it.

I have a similar manual bilge pump that was not working. This was 4 years ago.
I was able to remove it and rebuild it. The local West Marine surprisingly had the parts in stock but you could have them ship the rebuild kit to your home.

The rebuild was simple and the new diaphragm in the rebuild kit fit and worked well.
I was not able to find a replacement for the outer rubber part that goes on the outer face around the hole for the pump handle (which has a small tear) but that doesn't seem to affect the pump.

It was a bit difficult to get to. I had to crawl into an area aft of the quarter berth.
A large cushion or old blanket will help to pad the area and make it easier to lay down in there.
A flashlight or work light will help.
A heat gun may be needed to remove the bilge hose.
Have the right screwdrivers or small rachet wrench and sockets ready for the hose clamps. and for the bilge pump mounting bolts.
Have a helper in the cockpit to hold a screwdriver or wrench to the outside of the mounting bolts.

It might take one to two hours in total to do the job. It's not too bad.
The pump in my boat worked fine after the rebuild and it looked to be the original 40year old pump.
They can rust out. You won't know until you have it out.

Ironically, aside from an occasional test when washing out the bilge I've yet to use the pump but it's good to know that it's there for an emergency.

[jen1722terry]

Thanks to all for the responses. Very thoughtful and wise.

But I have another question:

The inlet hose for the pump in the bottom of the bilge has a tricuspid valve inside the inlet screen. Is this part necessary or wise? Isn't there a tricuspid valve in the pump housing?

Again, thanks in advance for the advice. Jenn and I wish ll of you a happy and safe sailing season up here in New England.

[Frenchy]

That valve is unnecessary, in my view. It was probably installed to prevent water from flowing back down
into the bilge. But what's the difference if the water is held in the hose or in the bilge? Plus, the valve also
hinders pumping, adding restriction. Most boats, I think, just have a screen box or nothing
at all. - Jean

[keneasley]

I'm with Jean on this.
I recently removed the screen fitting (which included a check valve) on my bilge hose.
The bilge on Felicity is very clean and so no need for it.