Hoist Launching Typhoon

[tc53]

Hello. We are the new owners of a 1974 CD Typhoon Weekender. While we await a slip becoming available, we will be either ramp or hoist launching. I've already posted some questions about ramps and the process of extending our trailer tongue, but I also have questions about lifting straps for use with a hoist. As our longer term boat storage may be a dry dock space rather than a slip, we may be hoist launching in the long term. Does anybody have any advice as to the best length of lifting straps for a Weekender? I'm assuming one strap would go around at the forward end of the keel, and another either under the keel just forward of the rudder or around the hull aft of the keel/rudder. All four strap eyes would/should meet, I assume, directly over the lifting ring of the keel ballast, perhaps 4' or so above the cabin top. Thanks for any suggestions or advice.

[Dick Villamil]

You could easily ramp launch - depending on the depth of the water and characteristics of the trailer.Movable bunks would be easier than jack-stands on a trailer. If you have 3-3.5 feet of water, a good truck should be able to launch it without a tongue extension although tong extensions make it a lot easier (and dryer). You might be able to leave the mast up and store the boat at the marina between launches. As for the rudder keep any straps away from it since the rudder tends to be the weakest link on the boat. Also, never use the eyebolt in the bilge for lifting -- it was put there to lower the ballast in place - not for lifting the boat.

[tc53]

Thanks, Dick, I appreciate the advice. We have ramp launched the CD, and while it went generally well we found the process challenging. Getting the extendable trailer tongue in and out was difficult, as was getting the boat properly seated on the trailer when we hauled out (it took us two attempts). Also, when we finally work our way up the wait list and get dry dock storage, it will be on the other side of the harbor from the ramp. Hence my interest in working out the straps. My main dilemmas are figuring out what length straps to get, and then how to get and keep these straps in the right location under the hull when hauling out. I'm wondering it the aft strap really needs to go under the keel (just forward of the rudder, per the diagram posted on the CD Forum) and if it could instead just go under the hull aft of the keel/rudder. When I've hoist launched bigger and heavier boats with fin keels, we've just put straps fore and aft of the fin keel, so I am wondering why not on a Typhoon?

[Cathy Monaghan]

Take a look at this message thread that’s right here on this message board.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... oat#p81458

[tc53]

Thanks, Cathy. I have seen that helpful post. I'm just trying to figure out a system for ensuring that aft strap is in the right place when we hoist the boat out of the water. That, and I am looking for some advice as to what length of straps to use. I wonder if anyone has used spreader bars, one on each side, as a means of getting and keeping the straps in the right position fore and aft. Thanks.

[Paul D.]

I concur with Dick’s comments re launch with a trailer. We launched our Ty with an old van and trailer with a tongue extension. While it was a little work as the ramp was less than ideal depth and the trailer have stands instead of bunks, it worked out fine for a twice per year activity.

Our 33 is hauled out with an old Linkbelt with a cradle for the straps so having a spreader bar or cradle of some type seems like a good idea if you decide to go with a hoist launch/haul out. I don’t know the best length of the straps but with a measuring tape you could get a good idea measuring around the hull at the center curvature of the keel up to a round a point 4 or 5 feet above deck. The aft strap should go around the aft most part of the keel just ahead of the rudder. But I’ve often seen our CD boats launched with it under the transom when they don’t have the proper strap. It gives one a pretty good cringe but hasn’t seemed to affect the hull over the years. Solid ass boats. Try that with an Irwin! But I digress.

[Megunticook]

My first haul-out with the trailer was a hot mess. I hate to even think about it. That was 10 years ago. Didn't help that the conditions were crappy as a Nor-easter was starting to edge in. Like you I couldn't get the boat situated properly on the trailer.

It gets a lot easier with practice. You learn what works and what doesn't pretty quickly.

Calm conditions are key. Any wave action or more than a gentle breeze and everything gets complicated fast.

[PortTack]

I don’t know if this is helpful, but here’s a photo I check for reference every season as I haul in and out with our club crane. Forward straps near the port holes, aft straps near the ends of the coamings. I stand on the boat holding the straps in place, adjusting as I need to, until there’s enough tension in the line to hold firm.

[tc53]

Thanks! That is very helpful. I had wondered if that aft strap could go aft of the keel altogether, thus avoiding the issue of potential damage to the rudder by a misplaced strap. Do you know the approximate lengths of the fore and aft straps? If I go this route, I'll need to order a set of my own.

[Carl Thunberg]

Probably not so critical for a Typhoon that doesn't weigh very much, but if the boat was much bigger, you would want to tie those slings together to prevent slippage particularly in the sloping forefoot. Also, if the boat was any bigger, you would not want to sling it in the aft overhang.

[wikakaru]

A few tips for hauling out with straps:

* Have a photo of the boat in profile that you can use to line up items above the water like portholes or cleats with items below the water like the front of the keel or the back of the rudder. That way you will know where the straps are underwater even if you can't see them.
* Tie the forward and aft straps together so they can't slide apart and drop the boat.

A few tips for hauling out with a trailer:

* Always haul out in calm conditions. We choose our haulout day with care because the ramp we use has quite a lot of fetch from the northwest, which is where the strong winds come from in autumn.
* Add guide posts to the trailer so the boat is positioned properly side to side. You may want to fit guide posts at about 1/4 and 3/4 the length of the boat to ensure it is perfectly aligned in the water before hauling.
* My trailer's bow bumper has a slide to adjust forward and aft. The boat settles aft and pulls away from the bow bumper when the trailer is pulled out of the water. Through trial and error determine the correct position for the guide bumper both with the boat and trailer out of the water (that results in the right trailer balance and tongue weight), mark it, and figure out the correct position for the bow bumper with the boat in the water, and mark it.

There are probably a dozen, maybe a hundred other tips I could suggest, but that's what comes to mind right away.

Smooth sailing,

Jim
* Use a tongue extension that is rigid to make backing easier. I have used 3 different tongue extensions, and the best one I have is one made up by a local trailer shop that has a hitch ball welded to the top, and bolts to the trailer. You can make it as long as you want.

IMG_6109a-001.JPG

* Swap out the normal tongue wheel for good twin inflatable tires. It makes the trailer and extension much easier to maneuver.

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