CD 25D bilge pump

[n5ama]

I was doing some maintenance on my 25D today and had a fresh water hose in the cabin. After some failed attempts to do a acid purge on my Yanmar head/block, I decided to run a little water in the bilge to test the bilge pump. It failed to come on, so I turned it on with the manual switch position. It worked just fine and pumped all the water out.

Now I have to make a decision on changing out the level sensor (seperate devise) or changing both the sensor and the bilge pump. The pump works fine but is probably the same age as the sensor. This being a fairly important piece of gear, so I'm thinking both should probably replaced. My boat is a very dry boat but things happen.

Are there any recommendations on a replacement for these items? I have no experience with what is available and what might be the best brand or unit suitable for my 25D. I can look at the ads and see prices ranging from $20 -> much more. I probably don't need one that pumps 5000GPM but I definately need one that comes on when water accumulated in the bilge. I don't mind spending whatever it takes to do the job.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Tom

[JD-MDR]

I like the "Rule" submersible pumps. On my 30'er I only have a 750 gph combination unit with the float switch enclosed. I keep it way down at the lowest part of the sump. Sometimes it kicks on too often. like when I'm pounding into the seas because it only takes about two qts for that sump to fill over the unit.. I turn it off sometimes. I also have a 2000 gph pump ready to plug in to a cig lighter and run a hose out onto the deck. It's kinda portable. I have a high water alarm with a float switch. I've never had to use those. I also have the manual 1-1/4" Whale manual pump that came with the boat.. Actualy I replaced the original with a second hand one that works perfectly.
I often vacuum the water out of the bilge so the pump wont get all slimy and at least once a year I remove the pump with the float switch and clean it good with detergent or solvent.
Oh , I also hooked an audible alarm that sounds whenever the primary bilge pump is on

[n5ama]

Great suggestions!!!

The boat doesn't have a alarm on it now but would be easy to wire in when I replace the pump.
The switch in the pump sounds like a great idea. Mounting those external lever switches would be a chore in the 25D. The bottom of the bilge is deep and narrow. Not much working room to mount a switch.

Having a "portable" pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter connector (which is right next to the bilge) is a great second line of defense.
I also have a whale pump but unless I've got crew on board tending that pump (in the rear of the cockpit), I'm thinking I'd be busy with the tiller and not wanting to be messing with that unless it was the only thing keeping me from sinking (I'm not sure how effective that whale pump would be anyway).

I appreciate your help and will be looking for a Rule pump with the built in switch.

Tom

[JD-MDR]

The 750gph pump I have I think is kinda small I want to get the 1000gph but this one wont ware out. Even 1000 seems small to me.. I had two different leaky wood boats (commercial fishing ) that at times ran a 3500 gph full time. I think Rule only has those two with the built in switch. I like the built in switch because nothing can fall down there and block the float from working.

[n5ama]

I ordered the Rule 1100GPH automatic pump and a side bracket (to help the mounting issues). I still have a problem working in the bottom of that skinny bilge but the side bracket should help.

Tom

[JD-MDR]

Yea, that's the one.. I guess I'm kinda out of date

[n5ama]

I made a trip to the boat today with several items on the agenda.

Number 1 was to hook up some 1/2" clear hoses to the Yanmar and run acid through it. I connected every thing up and attempted to run fresh water first to check for leaks. It was a really nice day but I wasn't interested in getting a acid bath. There were no leaks but there was no water going into the block. After running a 5/16" drill into the fitting, I drilled through something that gave up pretty quick and was then able to pump water through the block. Some solids came out the port I used (the thermostat fitting). I pumped fresh water until it mostly cleared and the bigger chunks stopped coming out.

I then pumped undiluted acid and split the wash in two parts only pumping 1/2 gallon first. Some really nasty brown to black stuff came out and I continued to pump for 15 minutes. It was also bubbling a lot in the discharge. The second 1/2 gallon of acid only produced a light brown discharge with much fewer bubbles. I pumped it 1/2 hour (until the pump failed). I drained what I could then pumped fresh water for awhile with very little discoloration using a spare bilge pump.

I hooked it all back together and ran the engine at 2000 rpm for 1/2 hour noting head temperature at a max of 126 degrees. I had no base case with the temperature and didn't know what was normal. The temperature dropped to under 100 degrees at idle. I noticed a lot more exhaust water discharge so I'm guessing all this worked. NO TEMP ALARM!!!

Number 2 on the list was to replace the bilge pump with a Rule pump with a built in level switch. I never took it out of the package because the discharge port on the existing pump looks to be about 1 1/2" diameter and the port on the Rule pump looks about half that size. I'll either have to find a bilge pump with the right discharge port or just replace the level switch on it. The pump works ok but it doesn't kick on when I dump water in the bilge for the test. I have to manually turn the pump on to empty the bilge.

I have seen the level switches available but not sure that I've seen the discharge port size given on the bilge pumps. I don't want to use some sort of size adapter as I feel that is begging for reliability issues. I would really like to find a pump to fit my discharge line with the automatic switch built in.

I'm happy with my progress today but realize I have a bit more work to do.

Thanks,
Tom

[n5ama]

It seems Amazon won't take the Rule bilge pump back so I guess the next best thing is to use it on my boat as a backup pump. I don't know how to make this happen without running another line and cutting another hole in the hull for the additional bilge pump discharge.

I'm reloctant to do this, especially cutting another hole in the hull. Is there a way to put a "T" or "Y" connector in the existing line? The two are different sizes. Is there a source of fittings that are salt water tolerant and reliable?

Any help greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
Tom

[JD-MDR]

Hi Tom I have a 1-1/4" discharge outlet for my manual hand pump and 3/4" outlet for my automatic pump, I mounted a float switch on a piece of 1/4" aluminum that fits nicely down in place so I can lift it out to service . I wonder why you have a 1-1/2 " discharge outlet. Maybe that was originally for a manual pump Here is a photo of my manual pump with the 1-1/4" household pipe fittings.I was advised never to use these cheap plastic fittings but they fit so nicely have been in for about 5 yrs and are just fine.
Maybe not helpful to you .I'm just trying to participate in the conversation

[JD-MDR]

here is the other outlet. Ive since modified it .. I'll get a photo soon.

[n5ama]

Hi Tom I have a 1-1/4" discharge outlet for my manual hand pump and 3/4" outlet for my automatic pump, I mounted a float switch on a piece of 1/4" aluminum that fits nicely down in place so I can lift it out to service . I wonder why you have a 1-1/2 " discharge outlet. Maybe that was originally for a manual pump Here is a photo of my manual pump with the 1-1/4" household pipe fittings.I was advised never to use these cheap plastic fittings but they fit so nicely have been in for about 5 yrs and are just fine.
Maybe not helpful to you .I'm just trying to participate in the conversation

Thanks for the reply!
The 1 1/2" is the discharge outlet on my existing bilge pump. That's why I'm finding it difficult to replace. The Rule 1100 GPH pump has a discharge outlet about half that size.

I would also be very reluctant to use a plastic fitting for this unless it was made for this application. I may be forced to fabricate a fitting that will accomodate both hose sizes or just forget about running a backup bilge pump. I would rather forgo the backup bilge pump if it means having the potential of a fitting failure and neither builge pump able to pump water out.

Tom

[JD-MDR]

I didn’t like the original plastic thru hull either. I replaced it with bronze and redirected the hose. Before it would dig into my back whenever I crawled in there to work on the steering. Also I was worried about that hose getting worked around too much and splitting. What Rule pump has a 1-1/2” discharge That seems really big

[Steve Laume]

I am sorry but there is so much wrong with this installation, that I need to make sure it is changed, and no one uses it as an inspiration. Some day that will sink your boat.

If you are on a port tack and something shifts in that locker it will break off the plastic fitting. The vented loop is fine, but things go downhill fast from there, (pun intended). Single clamp below the waterline. Unsecured, hard, plastic pipe, wood and fasteners that will quickly rot and rust and no backing plate.

This could very easily be corrected by installing a properly sized, barbed through hull fitting with a backing plate and putting double clamps on it. I am assuming this through hull is above the waterline when the boat is at rest so there is no need for a seacock.

Please change this for the sake of your boat and the safety of anyone that might be on board, Steve.

[JD-MDR]

Ok. Thanks. But it’s way better than The original setup. I dont know if that was original or the previous owners setup. I can get a backing plate a pipe nipple. Epoxy a different type block down and double clamp the hose. I’m not gonna change the thru hull. Photo of the original: I’ll put double clamps now

[n5ama]

I didn’t like the original plastic thru hull either. I replaced it with bronze and redirected the hose. Before it would dig into my back whenever I crawled in there to work on the steering. Also I was worried about that hose getting worked around too much and splitting. What Rule pump has a 1-1/2” discharge That seems really big

The 1 1/2" diameter discharge is on a existing pump and not the Rule pump I purchased. This original pump has been down in the bilge long enough to have all the original maker information washed or worn off. The Rule pump I purchased has a discharge port half that size and it the problem I'm trying to fix.

My options appear to be either making a "Y" fitting to fit both pumps or finding a pump with the same discharge port size and replacing the level switch.

Tom