Winter cover frame

[freitknecht]

Need to build a frame for winter storage of a CD 27 that I usually cover with a tarp. The mast is down but stored on the boat. Last year the bilge got totally filled probably from a big snow melt. So, I would like to build something so that snow won't build up. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Felice

[jfischgrund]

I gave up on tarps and a boom tent to cover my 27'. I tried one of those "easy to assemble" metal frames that was not easy to assemble and the tarps still sagged and leaked after a big snowfall and I ended up with frozen cockpit drains . . . so I went with shrinkwrap but the cost has just about doubled over the past 3 years, so if anyone has some good frame ideas for a 27', I'm also interested!

[Ben Miller]

I tarp my Ty and have gotten reasonably successful at it. I store the mast on the boat and use it as the horizontal support for the tarp. In my experience, the frame isn't the most important part, as long as it's sufficient to hold up the mast. Rule #1 is to get the peak high enough to shed snow (shoot for a 45-degree angle, like a house). Rule #2 is to tie down the tarp well enough to keep it from sagging and flapping. For me, that means spending ~30 minutes running string from grommet to grommet back and forth under the boat.

Last year I switched my mast support from some old sawhorses to a set of A-frame 2x4 supports. The legs fit inside and brace against the toerail. The upper ends are shaped to cradle the mast, and there's a pivot just below. Some small rope helps keep the legs from spreading apart and keeps the whole thing upright while I put the tarp over it. I did a little math to make sure that the mast wound up as high as I wanted it to be, and put some time into smoothing the corners to reduce chafe on the tarp. I use two (a bigger boat would probably want more).

[Carl Thunberg]

Not a 27 or even a CD, but the same principles apply. Personally, I don't support the tarp by the mast, even in years when I drop the mast. The secret to a successful cover is to keep the ridge pole as high as you can reasonably manage. Every piece of my winter cover frame is labeled, so it goes in the same place every year. The ridge poles are 2x6 and they are attached to the vertical T-supports by joist hangers. The bottom horizontal pieces of strapping are zip tied to the stanchions. The strapping supports the tarp, so there are zero low spots that can accumulate water and freeze. Every seam is taped so it cannot catch wind. My wife and I can erect the frame in less than four hours. Add two more hours for the tarp, taping and tying. The excess at the bow and stern is gathered by spring clamps, which are the orange things shown in the photo below. And never tie anything to the jack stands.

I just can't bring myself to shrink wrap my boat. I hate seeing the dumpsters over-flowing with plastic at the boatyard every spring. I get about six years out of a tarp.

[wikakaru]

For what it's worth, here's the cover to my CD22. The mast is the ridge pole, and there are no frames. The the cover is tied down to the trailer and is tight enough that snow spills off. The trick to this arrangement is to remove the stanchions before putting the cover on so you don't have to build a frame up over the stanchions. I don't know about your CD25, but on my CD22 the stanchions are just held into the stanchion bases with set screws.

Inside:

cover1-123121.jpg

Outside:

cover4-123121.jpg

Smooth sailing,

Jim

[Paul D.]

I've shrink-wrapped my boat for 20 years. However I reuse the shrink-wrap. I figure you have al already form fitted tarp. If you cut it off properly, you can reuse for two or even three seasons.

Aforementioned points are valid - High ridge and angle for both snow and rain water collection prevention, a tight tarp and for CD's with their teak toerails, tarp wide enough to cover over the beam ends.

SO... one option is to shrinkwrap or have the boat shrinkwrapped with the mast up or down, however you would store it over the next few years, and then cut the shrink off just the right way and save the frame to reset it up the following years. See photos for an idea and if you are interested, PM me for specifics.

[Dick Villamil]

I have used 1.25" 100 and 160 psi poly pipe spaced about 14" along the mast. Drill holes in the ends and cut the hoops long enough to go over the mast and just past the gunwales. I also made a frame to support the mast keeping it 4 feet off the deck. Tie the hoops to the mast to keep them organized then tie the ends to the cradle. Then get a tarp (heavy weight is best) from Harbor Freight or Tractor supply making sure that the tarp is as long as the boat and wide enough to drape over the hoops and drop a foot or so below the gunwales. Then tie the tarp to the cradle. I always visit the boat occasionally through the winter to tighten the ropes to prevent sagging. Lace the ends to cover the deck but leave the ends open to allow ventilation. I have used this system on all of my boats - 25', 27', 34' and now the Typhoon with high success. Many at the marina I have stored the boats have replicated my method since it works and the poly pipes have lasted over 30 years. I even use this system when the mast is left up but it takes 2 tarps. Initial expense is probably around $300- $500 but divided by 30 years it is cheap - only need to replace the tarp every 5 years or so and buy replacement rope periodically. If you use a truckers hitch to tie the hoops and tarp it is easy to tighten the ropes over the winter when it is colder. I also use an extended snow rake to remove the snow that didn't slide off. Most important with the heavy wet snow in spring. In spring just bundle the pipe sections together and store on the cradle over the summer or behind your garage!

[wikakaru]

...

Then get a tarp (heavy weight is best) from Harbor Freight or Tractor supply making sure that the tarp is as long as the boat and wide enough to drape over the hoops and drop a foot or so below the gunwales.

...

For those of you who don't know (I only learned this a couple of years ago), many tarps are advertised and sold by their "cut size" not their actual finished size. (Kind of like how 2x4 lumber is not really 2"x4".) With the "cut size" measurement, the tarp material is cut to the advertised size then hemmed and grommets are added. Unfortunately, unlike dimensional lumber which is standardized, with tarps you never know how much smaller the tarp is, because it depends on how many folds were used for the hems. So check to see whether the tarp you are buying is "cut size" or "finished size" so you don't get a nasty surprise and find out that the tarp you bought is too small for your job.

Smooth sailing,

Jim

[keneasley]

With my former boat I used a home made poly canvas cover and 2 x 4 frame form many years.
It held up well but was a lot of work to make, set up, and take down.

With my current boat I went with a custom made cover from Ship Shape of Duluth Minnesota.
They have patterns for most boats, even my limited production Intrepid 9 Meter.
It was just about $2,000 and that was for the deluxe version.
They can make them for mast up or mast down use.
It's been great now for 3 Connecticut winters with no real signs of wear. Should last 10 years or more.
Supports are just the boom and a 12 foot long 2 x 6 board for the forward end.

Winter_Cover_8.JPG

A great feature is that it has a zippered opening in the back so that one can easily access the boat for winter projects or just to check on it.

Winter_Cover_b12.JPG

[freitknecht]

Thanks for all the great responses!

[Dick Villamil]

WInter Cover Frame.jpeg

Poly pipes are attached to mast with 14 gauge wire passed through holes drilled into the pipe. Ends of poly pipe also have holes drilled through them to pass small diameter rope to attach to trailer (or cradle) and snugged tight. Mast had been positioned on supports high enough off the deck to make it easy for snow to slide off. Tarp is then draped over the pipes and snugged to the trailer with ropes tied through the grommets. A 12' x 20' heavy duty poly tarp is used and I get about 6-8 seasons from each tarp (Harbor Freight @ $25 (when on sale). Poly pipes have been used for the past 15 seasons and should last another 15 years. After a snow storm of 6" or more I use a snow rake to clear the snow to prevent sagging of the pipe or to avoid undue weight on the trailer. This gives me some fun "boat hours" during the winter! Seasonal cost for this cover has averaged $5-$10 over the past 15 years.

[John Stone]

I can't think of anything worse for a boat than decks exposed to water or snow that freezes and thaws. However you can cover it, tarps, shrink wrap (can't use shrink-wrap on Awlgrip), canvas just about anything is better than nothing.

I found a used cover made for a CD 36 that fits my boat pretty well. Has made an amazing difference in protecting it and we don't get near the terrible winter Paul D gets on the shores of the Great Lakes or any of the folks in NE. Our cover fits over the boom and the whisker pole.

[Jim Walsh]

I can't think of anything worse for a boat than decks exposed to water or snow that freezes and thaws. However you can cover it, tarps, shrink wrap (can't use shrink-wrap on Awlgrip), canvas just about anything is better than nothing.

I found a used cover made for a CD 36 that fits my boat pretty well. Has made an amazing difference in protecting it and we don't get near the terrible winter Paul D gets on the shores of the Great Lakes or any of the folks in NE. Our cover fits over the boom and the whisker pole.

Would that be a sleeve on your bowsprit? I presume you try to limit exposure when on the hard.

[John Stone]

I can't think of anything worse for a boat than decks exposed to water or snow that freezes and thaws. However you can cover it, tarps, shrink wrap (can't use shrink-wrap on Awlgrip), canvas just about anything is better than nothing.

I found a used cover made for a CD 36 that fits my boat pretty well. Has made an amazing difference in protecting it and we don't get near the terrible winter Paul D gets on the shores of the Great Lakes or any of the folks in NE. Our cover fits over the boom and the whisker pole.

Would that be a sleeve on your bowsprit? I presume you try to limit exposure when on the hard.

Aye. Keep that sunbrella cover over the bowsprit except when we are sailing.

[jbenagh]

Ooh, bowsprit cover! I love it. Although here in New England I'm not too worried about sun Oct-Apr.
Jeff